steering arm removal

[shelby987]

OK, I am not sure what the piece is called, but I am trying to remove the steering arm from my dana 44hd axle and I have run into some trouble. Its a 1970 axle, and the piece is the hooked piece attached directly to the axle, there is a link between it and the pitman arm.

I pulled 3 nuts off of the studs that run through it, but I can't seem to get it off, are the studs threaded into the steering arm as well? If so, whats the best way to get the studs out? (grind flats on them and pull them off?).

I can get a pic. if it helps clarify the issue.

[Americanrider]

Oh fun....been there done that!

I know what your talking about. Those 3 studs have cone shaped spacers with slots in them and the wide end of the cone is on top.

1. Lube them up with WD-40 or something like it and let it sit for a few min.
2. Smack with a 3lb hammer a couple of time each side of the casing that holds the 3 studs (easy to do when the axle is out from under the truck)
3. If your axle is out of the truck rotate the axle upside down and smack it a few times on the bottom side. Watch and see if the cones fall out.
4. You should see those cone shaped spacers pop loose.
4. Insert a small flat tip screwdriver into the slots [not to far or you will spread the cone spacer making it tighter] and try to spin them out. Either direction is ok, they are not threaded.
5. Once all 3 cones are removed the whole assy should come off of the axle. ... If not give it a couple more hits w/ a hammer.

[wibilly]

yea there a beech i just did it a couple of weeks ago. lots of penitrating oil and a big old hammer. i didn't realize the were cones and thought they were just lock washers rusted on there and messed them all up. even after removing the cones the stearing arm must come off them studs straight, good luck

[see ten]

This question is often asked and I answer it just as often. I really don't know why as no one seems to listen to me . The cone washer can be removed with a large socket and a big hammer. The socket must be a larger diameter than the cone washer. Place the socket against the steering arm(on the top) with it surrounding one of the washers. Smack down with the hammer against the socket. The impact will shock or vibrate the washer and cause it to pop out. You don't need a torch or even penetrating oil (although I am sure that the oil won't hinder the operation). Don't hit the arm from the bottom trying to knock the washers out this will only make it tighter. It's the same principle as using two hammers to remove a steering wheel. You remove the wheel retaining nut from the column and place a hammer against the shaft. Strike the first hammer with another big hammer. The steering wheel will fall off in your lap! Best of luck to you and feel free to ignore me like everyone else . I don't claim to know everything but I do have experience with this operation. Big socket, big hammer the steering arm should be on the ground in short order. Heck it worked for me!

[shelby987]

ok......the socket thing didn't work....and I have beaten this arm so hard that it is now officially forged! I am making progress, I got ONE out......i started drilling at the split, and then 180 degrees from there.......got the second one done, and filled with wd-40.....hopefully things will set in over night, and tomorrow I can get the last two out.........unless anyone else has a surefire tip that has been overlooked.

[dboyzalter]

damn when all else fails break out the air chisel... I know that arm is a *****... I remember when I lifted my old truck and tried to put the new arm in I think I eventually just gave up and rigged something... those where in my younger... not so smart days though... good luck... and I 15 buck air chisel is deff a good investment...

[72-stomper]

You can also try heating up the axel where the studs screw in and back out the studs with a visegrip. I can hook you up with a link for a new kit (studs,taper bushings,nuts) for ~$25.00. Ill have to dig for it. I think the dealer wanted ~$100.00.
Let me know.

[wibilly]

good info seeten if i ever do this again i will try that first. it makes sence to me as long as it is done first before they are wedged from pounding or bougered up in some other way

[see ten]

Originally Posted by wibilly

good info seeten if i ever do this again i will try that first. it makes sence to me as long as it is done first before they are wedged from pounding or bougered up in some other way

Right O! Mine came off in about two strikes per washer. You have to have a big hammer and be confident and solid with where it lands. Mine was swapped in less than 10 minutes.

[SoCal71K20]

For clarification, can anyone post a related pic.

[shelby987]

I will take a pic when I get home tonight

[Americanrider]

3 replacement cones & 3 studs w/washers = $9 at local 4x4 shop.
Big Hammer = PRICLESS!

[Blazer1970]

Hit it hard with a big hammer. You want to hit on the side of the arm near where the holes where the studs/cones come through. What you are trying to do is to hit it hard enough to (temporarily) deform the holes in the arm a little bit so that the cone washers will loosen up and come out. You will never get it off by hitting down on it, or up on the free end of the arm. You need a sledge hammer. This same technique is used to get the tapered fit tie rod ends and drag link ends apart. I can get them off in five minutes guaranteed this way.

[shelby987]

here's a pic of the arm and the cones after I drilled all of the cones to get enough play in them......oh yeah, and about a thousand wacks with a big hammer, even with the cones out, it didn't want to come off easily.

The axle I bought is a corp 10 bolt....not sure if the studs were pulled and the holes tapped, but the steering arm will have to be installed with 3 bolts, and 3 tapered cones.

p.s. does anyone have the part numbers for those cones....there doesn't seem to be any good autoparts stores around here

[wibilly]

i need a set of them myself. no luck finding them yet

[72-stomper]

This shows the studs, cone washers, and locking nuts.

And here are the studs and cone washers part numbers. GM calls the cone washers "adapters".

Stud
3965137

Adapter (cone washer)
3965138

Each of these were about $3.50 a piece. So it cost me under $24 for the studs and washers per side. And GM does not sell the nuts (or at least my local dealer said they were not available). It is a 9/16-18 that's needed.

TriCounty Gear also sells the hardware separately. $20 for the 3 9/16-NF studs, 3 conical "washers" and the 3 9/16 aircraft "stover" nuts

[72-stomper]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ngresearch.htm
-------------
about 3/4 way down page

[72-stomper]

http://www.tricountygear.com/
.................................
You have to call them

[shelby987]

I swapped this arm over to my corp 10 bolt, went out and got some 9/16ths fine thread grade 8 bolts and threaded them into the axle......is there enough metal in direct contact with that arm and the bolts, or do I need to put the cone washers on there with these grade 8 bolts?

[wibilly]

personaly i would not use bolts but studs, and would not even think about not using new cones

[shelby987]

whats the difference between screwing in a stud, and screwing in a bolt?

[72-stomper]

The tapered cones are designed to be used with studs.

[Blazer1970]

You need the cones in there. The studs/bolts are in shear, and the cones are the only way to take all of the play out. It is kind of an important component to your personal safety.

[shelby987]

and the hits just keep on comin' 72-stomper, I appreciate the part numbers.....but my local parts stores can't cross reference GM part numbers (ARE YOU FREAKIN' KIDDING ME!), anyway.....does anyone know what numbers I need to use to actually get these parts from a parts store, or am I stuck buying these and the rest of my parts online?

[72-stomper]

I spent countless hours trying to find these locally. No luck, so I called tri country gear. The link is in my other reply..Nice kit....
Have Fun...