Color Sanding

[chadvicki]

Hello,

I am need of getting my truck color sanded. It is a white truck with a recently new paint job. However it sat out in the elements for some time. It has no dents or scatches but the paint just has some yellowing on the flat surfaces such as the hood and so on. It also has a flat kinda not smooth like glass finish.

Anyway I was told by the previous owner to have it color sanded and it would be like new and shine shine shine.

So my ?? is what does it involve and what do I look for in the place that will be doing the work.

Thanks,

Chad

P.S. I am in southern california if anyone knows a guy around here.

[Myself]

That all depends on whether it's single stage or B/C. If it's single stage, wetsand the whole thing with like 1500 grit then buff it back out. If it's clearcoated and yellow looking, I'd say all the clear needs sanded back off and redone.

[chadvicki]

Is there a way to know if it has been clear coated?

Chad

[SactoJim]

If it is not clearcoated the color of your vehicle will show on the buffing pad and when you color sand the water will appear the same color as well.............might be a little harder to notice with White.

If you paint job appears to have gone flat and/or chalky, I would say it is more then likely a single stage paint (no clearcoat). If that's the case, I would just start with buffing and stay away from the color sanding.

[lowrollin70gmc]

My Jimmy did the same thing when it was white, from chemical de-icer the city applied (SF,SD). I buffed it off in the spring, but I didn't pay attention when I sanded it for the new paint job if it was single or base/clear.

Hope this helps a little.

[chadvicki]

What would be a good buffer? I have never buffed a vehichle. I have waxed one . Should I get one of those rotating tools?

Chad

[72CSTC5]

Get a piece of sandpaper and sand it dry. Use 1500 or 2000. Look at your paper and check to see if it is bright white or medium white. If it is bright white than it is single stage. Medium white than most likely base clear. Orbital buffer will not buff out a sanded paint finish, you need a high quality RPM selectable (preferably) buffer. Be careful if you have never done before, you can mess up some paint.

[Imacarguytoo]

Once you figure out what paint you have. You can rent a buffer from a rental place and the pads. First wet sand the paint with 3000 grit wetdry paper. KEEP IT WET and use a couple drops of DAWN dish detergant in the bucket of water.
Be very carefull around edges and use a slow speed on the buffer. DO NOT push on the buffer thinking the harder you push the better the shine, not the case. Let the weight of the buffer do the work and use your hands to just control the buffer. ALso when you wet sand do 1 panel at a time bevery careful around the edges of fenders and so on. Pretty much at the edge of the body panel. Get a buffing compound call Perfect it 3 from 3m. You can get that from a paint and body supply store as well as the wet/dry paper. Put the compound on the pad and start slow and do half a body panel till the compound is worked in to the paint. Buff back and forth and keep the buffer moving or you will burn the paint. Buff till you have a nice shine and the sanding marks are gone. I would go to walmart in there paint department and get a small VERY flexable plastic pad or something to wrap the sandpaper in so yu dont get finger marks in the paint while sanding. Remember keep the paper SOAKED.

Use a lamswool pad first then move to a foam pad for the perfect shine. Keep buffing till all the sanding scratches are gone. After the complete vehicle is wet sanded and buffed use some meguiers wax to protect the paint. Heres some pics of it done on my drag truck. This was 11 yr old factory clear coat paint. If you have any questions email me at imacarguytoo@yahoo.com

[chadvicki]

Ok, I found out I have a clearcoat on the paint. I went to a dealer and he did a small portion on my car and it was smooth as glass. However I can not get rid of the yellowing since it is under the clear coat.

So now I have to see if it is worth the $450 for color sanding a badddd pearl attempt paint job, butttttt smooth like glass. OR leave it the way it is, OR get e new paint job for around $1000 bucks.

What kind of paint job can you get for around $1000???

This is a daily driver with a perfect body and straight. So I just need a paint job no body work.

Thanks,

Chad

[chadvicki]

...

[Imacarguytoo]

I am sure there are mixed emotions on this BUT ive seen on a handful of cars of a friends. I would take it to maaco or a similiar paint shop in your area. If i remember right there paint jobs start at 300.00.
SOrry to hear about the paint. But you will get it lookin good sooner or later.

[brak]

personally i have never seen a good paintjob come from Maaco.

Although Last months issue of truckin, was promoting the hell outta them, I am a firm believer that you get what you pay for.

[texascowboy593]

You do get what you pay for... My 71 was done @ Maaco for a few hundred and its only OK. It is chipping in a few places and dosen't stand up well to door dings and scratches but... at the time that was what I needed. Its a daily driver that will get me by for a few more years til I really Re-do it! Even though its not perfect I still get compliments on it...

[JRB]

Hello Chad,
I will start by telling you I am no expert but I live across the street from a guy that restores and paints old GTO's (SHOW CONDITION) and I have been mentored by him and one of the first things he taught me about buffing is which way to manipulate the wheel when your buffing in correlation with the surface your buffing. If you haven't done one before I would suggest you pay the money to have it done and watch very closely how the guy buffing it manipulates the buffer. You can burn paint and leave nasty marks in your paint if you dont do it right. I wish you luck with your project.

JRB

[nutsforchevys]

I use the perfect it 3 from 3m and it is amazing. I finally broke down and bought me a good buffer from the paint store it cost around $90.00 but was so much better than the cheapo I used to have.

Originally Posted by Imacarguytoo

Once you figure out what paint you have. You can rent a buffer from a rental place and the pads. First wet sand the paint with 3000 grit wetdry paper. KEEP IT WET and use a couple drops of DAWN dish detergant in the bucket of water.
Be very carefull around edges and use a slow speed on the buffer. DO NOT push on the buffer thinking the harder you push the better the shine, not the case. Let the weight of the buffer do the work and use your hands to just control the buffer. ALso when you wet sand do 1 panel at a time bevery careful around the edges of fenders and so on. Pretty much at the edge of the body panel. Get a buffing compound call Perfect it 3 from 3m. You can get that from a paint and body supply store as well as the wet/dry paper. Put the compound on the pad and start slow and do half a body panel till the compound is worked in to the paint. Buff back and forth and keep the buffer moving or you will burn the paint. Buff till you have a nice shine and the sanding marks are gone. I would go to walmart in there paint department and get a small VERY flexable plastic pad or something to wrap the sandpaper in so yu dont get finger marks in the paint while sanding. Remember keep the paper SOAKED.

Use a lamswool pad first then move to a foam pad for the perfect shine. Keep buffing till all the sanding scratches are gone. After the complete vehicle is wet sanded and buffed use some meguiers wax to protect the paint. Heres some pics of it done on my drag truck. This was 11 yr old factory clear coat paint. If you have any questions email me at imacarguytoo@yahoo.com