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12-19-2006, 07:47 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Shawnee, KS
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Motor / Trans Removal.
Can I just take the four bellhousing to transmission bolts off, and pull the bellhousing with the motor while it's still attached to the the motor? If I did that, all I would have to remove is the clutch linkage from the block, correct?
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1987 Mustang Coupe - 2.7 Stroker, 78mm turbo, Stainless header, 3" Exh, FMIC, 160lb/hr Injectors, MS3, twin walbro 255's, 34psi. Eating V8's daily. 04 Pontiac GTO 04 Ford Mustang GT 68 C20 LWB stripper truck 73 K5 Cheyenne 76 C20 Sierra Crew SRW 88 K20 Suburban I'm not hammering on metal just to hammer, i'm creating a piece of art. |
12-19-2006, 09:22 PM | #2 |
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Re: Motor / Trans Removal.
ttt
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1987 Mustang Coupe - 2.7 Stroker, 78mm turbo, Stainless header, 3" Exh, FMIC, 160lb/hr Injectors, MS3, twin walbro 255's, 34psi. Eating V8's daily. 04 Pontiac GTO 04 Ford Mustang GT 68 C20 LWB stripper truck 73 K5 Cheyenne 76 C20 Sierra Crew SRW 88 K20 Suburban I'm not hammering on metal just to hammer, i'm creating a piece of art. |
12-19-2006, 09:22 PM | #3 |
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Re: Motor / Trans Removal.
I have done it on more than one occasion. The only difference if you leave the tranny in place is you will have to come forward more to clear the tranny, than if you disconnect the bell housing and flywheel bolts.
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Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God! |
12-19-2006, 09:38 PM | #4 |
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Location: Kernersville, NC
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Re: Motor / Trans Removal.
id disconnect the the six bolts that attach the back of the block to the bellhousing, pull the starter, disconnect all the wires, throttle and clutch linkage, heater hoses, and motor mount bolts, then lift away. chris.
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its a work in progess. 71 c-10 lwb, in the middle of frame off restoration. 69 c-10 swb, drag truck, 406 sbc, balanced, comp 292 cam, ported, polished, gasket matched, and bowl blended pro comp 210cc heads, 2.02/1.60 ferrea valves,1.6 roller rockers, re curved hei with msd 6al box, 2-step rev limter, accel 300+ wires, ported victor jr intake, holley 750 double pumper carb, dynomax 1 5/8 headers, 4 spd munci m-20 with super case and iron midplate, mr. gasket vertigate shifter, 5.38 pro gears with full spool, 33 spline moser axles and c-clip elimators, line-loc, 5 gal fuel cell, holley blue pump. 7.807 @ 88.37mph 1.60 60FT 80 g-20 van, tow rig, cammed 305, th350, 10 bolt 88 jeep wrangler, dd, 258, ax-15 swap, 4.5" lift, 33x12.50's, lockers, 3.55's |
12-19-2006, 11:23 PM | #5 |
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Re: Motor / Trans Removal.
Is that a 4 speed granny tranny or 3 speed manual ? If you remove the 4 tranny bolts won't the tranny just fall out ? There is no rear cross member to hold the tranny right ? If it is a 4 speed I would leave the tranny and bell in the truck, if it is a 3 speed, I would pull motor bell and tranny together, the whole nine yards at once, seems easier to me and easier to get back together.
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1968 C10 307 3spd Long Fleet ------ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201103 1970 C10 305 Super T10 Long Fleet --- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202285 1971 C20 383 TH350 Dana Posi ----- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206894 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 C3 6.0 |
12-20-2006, 12:34 AM | #6 |
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Location: Colfax-California
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Re: Motor / Trans Removal.
That was my thought also. The bellhousing is bolted to the x-member. I have always unbolted the bell from the block. Going back in, I cut the heads off some bolts about 2'' long and use them as guide pins
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