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04-24-2002, 01:49 AM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Vancouver, WA. USA
Posts: 38
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Point Gap/Dwell Meter
How do I connect my Dwell meter to my '67 Chevy Pickup... with a supposid 283... and what should the point gap be?
Thanks! ------------------ 1967 Chevy Pickup.
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http://4.65.252.68/hosted/twilightsig.jpg 1967 Chevy Pickup: '85 Camaro 305 Rebuilt carb - Turbo 400 Trans Flowtech headers to Purple Hornies |
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04-24-2002, 02:07 AM
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#2 |
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Recovering Truck Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Orleans, NE USA
Posts: 1,883
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rule of thumb on points i use is .018, as far as connecting dwell meter, that depends on the style you have, + and - go the corresponding battery terminals, and if it has one black wire, this goes to the only wire comming from distributer to coil. Dwell spec is available from book, I can't remember anymore. Adjust the dwell through the window in the cap with either an allen wrench(not reccomended) or the special adjusting screwdriver allen wrench with the spring/spedometer cable looking shank(reccomended).
------------------ Ol' Buck: '72 Chevy 1/2T 4x4 shortbox stepside 350/350auto on '84 ralleys and 31/10.5s Angel girl: 67 Cutlass convertible 330, 3spd stick Greener: 90 GMC Jimmy 350/auto Chad Stephens Orleans,NE no name yet: 72 442 under serious construction
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67 K-20 350, SM465, Eaton rear, 4.56 no spin option 00 Dodge 2500 4x4, 24V cummins, 5 speed Chad South Central Nebraska |
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04-24-2002, 07:17 AM
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#3 |
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1969 Custom 30 wrecker
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Pottsville, Pa
Posts: 2,611
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The dwell should be set to 30 degrees. (just confirmed this with a 1962 Chiltons book) Connect the positive and negative cables to the battery and the other wire goes to the (-) side of the coil.
Be sure to recheck the setting after 200-300 miles as the rubbing block on points will have some initial wear. ------------------ 63 Impala*66 Chevelle SS*69 Chevelle*69 C10 Stepside*71 Cheyenne 20*72 Chevelle Parts for sale: http://www.angelfire.com/trek/mr409/items4sale.html
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Bob 63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration) 66 Impala 327/PG/3.36 66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55 69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration) 69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73 69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!) 71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10 71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08 72 Chevelle 454/M21/4.10 |
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04-25-2002, 01:31 AM
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Vancouver, WA. USA
Posts: 38
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My dwell meter has only 2 leads. Not three. I connected the red to the + on the coil and the black to the - on the coil and seemed to get an okay reading. Thanks for the specs!
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http://4.65.252.68/hosted/twilightsig.jpg 1967 Chevy Pickup: '85 Camaro 305 Rebuilt carb - Turbo 400 Trans Flowtech headers to Purple Hornies |
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04-25-2002, 02:09 PM
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#5 |
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December 21, 2012
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Black Eagle, Montana
Posts: 1,633
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I got a dwell with only two leads also. directions on it say to connect red to negative on coil and black to a ground.
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"!Ama Sua, Ama Kjella, Ama Lllulla!" |
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04-25-2002, 02:41 PM
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#6 |
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Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,597
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Yep. One wire to negative coil, the other to ground. The dwell meter then essentially measures the amount of time the negative terminal is held at ground potential by the points. When the points are open, the voltage on the negative coil terminal is around 12 volts. When they're closed (grounded), the voltage is essentially zero. More dwell time (point closure) means more time to charge the coil, but it also means a smaller point gap, which can lead to trouble. (Dual-point distributors addressed this problem before electronic ignitions.) Make sure you replace the condensor -- it's job is to reduce arcing when the points open.
Wow, is that long-winded enough?
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Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
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04-25-2002, 06:38 PM
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 5,817
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For me 30 degress is a little wide. I think the acceptable range is from 28 to 34 degrees. The "old school" method is to take a matchbook and use that to gap the points, then turn the screw while running until the engine sounds good! I like the techie way better: gap .019 and turn to 28 degrees! That way after the 200-300 mile mark the gap will probably end up being around 30 (I'm lazy. Don't want to get back on top of the DAMN engine to reset my points! hehe).
BTW: Hope your dwell meter has tach as well. Mine does. Might as well set the idle while you're there...800 rpm for auto 1000 rpm for manual I think. Good luck. ------------------ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd w/ 350ci/400THM and a wood bed! '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd w/ ORIGINAL 350ci/4sp Manual and a wood bed (parts beast). Seattle, WA. *See pics of my trucks and project at www.webshots.com!
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. |
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