Engine rebuild advice.

[Sport/Truck]

It’s been a while, but I got the call from the machine shop and my engine cleaned up nicely ~ .030 over. They are ordering the stroker kit tomorrow AM.
I’m getting real excited!
It took awhile because they had to build some engines for a car show here plus the other customers ahead of me.
Anyway, I saw a nicely built 383 short block that they had done for the car show, (the race prep) and am considering doing the same on mine.
Here’s the skinny:
Opening up the oil galleys. I think I can do this myself using my die grinder with carbide bits. He said I can pick up my block tomorrow to start this.

He also recommended rounding off the area around the plugs under the cam gear- so the double roller won’t rub? I had the timing chain on for awhile and rotated the engine over several times with no issues. Not sure what to think about this, but can probably do this myself too.
He then mentioned drilling & tapping for threaded plugs under the timing chain~ again I think I can do this also. I have the 1/4 pipe tap too.

He offers a painted lifter valley using a special paint to help with the oil transfer to the oil galleys. He says it’s a PITA and said I wouldn’t want to do this myself. But thinking of having this done ~$30.

He also offers a grove & hone option on the lifter bores, which I’m thinking of having him do. This sounds like a good idea. ~$50.

Lastly he has an upgraded coated cam bearing option ~ $15. more.


Is there any thing else I might need/want to do? Is this stuff I mentioned necessary?
Any advice doing some of this myself would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
s/t

[dogfishguzzler]

Caveat Emptor

[flatheadnut0]

I agree, let the buyer beware. There is a reason that Chevrolet doesn't make 383 strokers. They are really hard running but, in my opinion, they just don't hold up.

[PanelDeland]

flathead,you are wrong about one thing.Chevrolet does build 383 strokers,crate engines.They use a slightly longer stroke than the aftermarket stroker cranks and standard bore.Check the Chevrolet performance parts website for details.

http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/Pa...l.jsp?engine=0

Most of what you listed I've seen as options,I haven't used any of them but it would depend on what you are expecting from the engine.I would say the threaded plugs and the coated oil galley are good ideas.The other stuff may be a bit overkill for a street engine.Some of the more knowledgable engine builders should have more info so here's a ttt.

[dogfishguzzler]

Most of the issues Ive heard with strokers are tuning and clearance, All I was saying to you sport/truck is dont let this guy talk a big line of crap unless you understand what hes saying. These guys here can definetly help you with that, let this thread go for atleast two days before you open your wallet.

[RACINJASON22]

I dissagree with the reliability factor. IMO I don't think there is any reasone for a well built well properly built 383 will last any less of an amount of time than any other combination of the SBC. So don't worry about that IMO.

As for the original questions:
IMO opening up the drain back oil galleys is a good idea. No major modifacation is needed but some minor work is helpfull just minor casting flash and rounding the edges is all that is needed IMO.

Rounding off the area around the plugs under the cam gear: This is needed on some not on others. You can check your own. There is some meat there that can be taken away without problem. Only needed if the is clearence issues.

Drilling & tapping for threaded plugs under the timing chain: I personally do this to all my engines as a realiability thing as far as it being needed that one up to you, there are engines with umpteen thousand miles running without this modifacation. BUT like I said I do this with all of mine.

Painting lifter valley using a special paint: Good Idea IMO. as far as needed, same as above. Kinda a choice thing but, it will help. You can also do this your self though, prep work is the main thing on this one as you want the paint to stay where you put it not flaking off and going where it may inside the engine. I.E. right into the oil pump pick-up.

Lastly he has an upgraded coated cam bearing option: There are different options on this one. As far as one coating being better than another, WHO KNOWS. Just my 02. I don't run them. Not saying there not better just never had a problem that I seen I needed to change for. Kinda like you could also have roller cam bearings installed and I actually mean roller berings here, They are out there.

It sounds like your machine shop is a decent one and they are just laying out the options for you.

Sorry for the long winded post just trying to answer all the points in your question and some times it takes alot of words for me to explain things as I'm more hands on. Hope it helps RJ22

BTW too bad I didn't decide to sell the one I have listed in the parts section befor you could have just picked it up and saved some money

[71Chevy4-speed]

IMHO 383's are good motors, just as long as you buy a kit or piece it together... yes the 400 crank and rods works.. but who knows how stressed they were in the previous life... which would be were the breakage comes in. I would build one in a heartbeat if I had the money. What kind of block do you have? You may not have to cleanup the front of the oil galley's to clear a double roller. The Hencho En Mexico blocks do require it to be cleaned up due to the fact that there is more metal there than factory blocks. Always a good idea to clean up the drainback galleys never heard of special paint to coat the lifter valley(painting the whole motor inside and out to hold any casting sand left over yes), besides oil drains back to the pan from there not to the lifters or oil galleys. Also if your going stroker its a good idea to have them clearance it. As far as tapping the oil galleys and putting plugs in. I would doesn't hurt anything and adds some insurance that they won't come out.

[martinkh]

I would do a 383 with an rv cam in a heartbeat. Buddy had one, it was amazing, even good economy with 37" tires.

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by PanelDeland

flathead,you are wrong about one thing.Chevrolet does build 383 strokers,crate engines.They use a slightly longer stroke than the aftermarket stroker cranks and standard bore.Check the Chevrolet performance parts website for details.

http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/Pa...l.jsp?engine=0

Most of what you listed I've seen as options,I haven't used any of them but it would depend on what you are expecting from the engine.I would say the threaded plugs and the coated oil galley are good ideas.The other stuff may be a bit overkill for a street engine.Some of the more knowledgable engine builders should have more info so here's a ttt.

PanelDeland
Thanks, He’s not saying I need any of this, I just seen it on one in the showroom floor and inquired.
I don’t think I would pay to have the galleys enlarged, but don’t mind doing it myself. I have everything to do it.

What about the coated cam bearings? Is it worth the extra $15?

Originally Posted by dogfishguzzler

Most of the issues Ive heard with strokers are tuning and clearance, All I was saying to you sport/truck is dont let this guy talk a big line of crap unless you understand what hes saying. These guys here can definetly help you with that, let this thread go for atleast two days before you open your wallet.

Dogfishguzzler- I understand what you’re saying and this is why I’m asking the questions. No offence taken.
s/t

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by RACINJASON22

I dissagree with the reliability factor. IMO I don't think there is any reasone for a well built well properly built 383 will last any less of an amount of time than any other combination of the SBC. So don't worry about that IMO.

As for the original questions:
IMO opening up the drain back oil galleys is a good idea. No major modifacation is needed but some minor work is helpfull just minor casting flash and rounding the edges is all that is needed IMO.

Rounding off the area around the plugs under the cam gear: This is needed on some not on others. You can check your own. There is some meat there that can be taken away without problem. Only needed if the is clearence issues.

Drilling & tapping for threaded plugs under the timing chain: I personally do this to all my engines as a realiability thing as far as it being needed that one up to you, there are engines with umpteen thousand miles running without this modifacation. BUT like I said I do this with all of mine.

Painting lifter valley using a special paint: Good Idea IMO. as far as needed, same as above. Kinda a choice thing but, it will help. You can also do this your self though, prep work is the main thing on this one as you want the paint to stay where you put it not flaking off and going where it may inside the engine. I.E. right into the oil pump pick-up.

Lastly he has an upgraded coated cam bearing option: There are different options on this one. As far as one coating being better than another, WHO KNOWS. Just my 02. I don't run them. Not saying there not better just never had a problem that I seen I needed to change for. Kinda like you could also have roller cam bearings installed and I actually mean roller berings here, They are out there.

It sounds like your machine shop is a decent one and they are just laying out the options for you.

Sorry for the long winded post just trying to answer all the points in your question and some times it takes alot of words for me to explain things as I'm more hands on. Hope it helps RJ22

BTW too bad I didn't decide to sell the one I have listed in the parts section befor you could have just picked it up and saved some money

RJ22 thanks for the info. I don’t think my cam gear needed this clearance so I’ll hold off on that one. I’m also going to do the taped holes myself, it shouldn’t be too hard. He mentioned that the middle plug needed to be ground down so as not to block the oil passage. Any ideas on this?
s/t

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by 71Chevy4-speed

IMHO 383's are good motors, just as long as you buy a kit or piece it together... yes the 400 crank and rods works.. but who knows how stressed they were in the previous life... which would be were the breakage comes in. I would build one in a heartbeat if I had the money. What kind of block do you have? You may not have to cleanup the front of the oil galley's to clear a double roller. The Hencho En Mexico blocks do require it to be cleaned up due to the fact that there is more metal there than factory blocks. Always a good idea to clean up the drainback galleys never heard of special paint to coat the lifter valley(painting the whole motor inside and out to hold any casting sand left over yes), besides oil drains back to the pan from there not to the lifters or oil galleys. Also if your going stroker its a good idea to have them clearance it. As far as tapping the oil galleys and putting plugs in. I would doesn't hurt anything and adds some insurance that they won't come out.

I’m going with a Eagle kit (internally balanced). My block is original high nickel 4BM.
s/t

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by martinkh

I would do a 383 with an rv cam in a heartbeat. Buddy had one, it was amazing, even good economy with 37" tires.

Cam selection is my next quest this week or next. Comp cams wanted a ton of info to determine the proper cam.
s/t

[RACINJASON22]

I can not say for sure what he is talking about but, it could just be getting crossed up in the wording. I for one have that problem geting things accross the way I want thae to sound.
I can tell you this I for one have spent alot of time with a die grinder on some blocks removeing casting flash and cleaning things up,(on full race engines as much as 20+ hours) not needed on the street but, it all helps.
SBC's are GR8 engines IMO and they do not need alot of help but as with any thing in mass production there is room for improvement.
Major modifacation is not needed but minor smoothing and radiusing is awesome for a happy long living engine.

Just a question how long do you have to spend on this new engine is time frame important. You can smooth the lifter valley completely instead of painting as an option it just takes alot of time, belive me I have done it a few times. Better than painting IMO but, also not NEEDED just an option. RJ22

[RACINJASON22]

Cam selection is my next quest this week or next. Comp cams wanted a ton of info to determine the proper cam.
s/t

I agree with them more than you know. RV cam can cover alot of things. This is what cam manufaturers are in buisness to do. Listen to them and you will be happier in the end. Don't fudge the #'s either let them how you will run the engine on a real world normal basis. I.E. don't tell them you want a drag stip terror and think that it will perform GR8 on the street as a hot a** daily driver cause it won't. I'm a speed freak and I have over camed more than once to learn my lesson. RJ22

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by RACINJASON22

I can not say for sure what he is talking about but, it could just be getting crossed up in the wording. I for one have that problem geting things accross the way I want thae to sound.
I can tell you this I for one have spent alot of time with a die grinder on some blocks removeing casting flash and cleaning things up,(on full race engines as much as 20+ hours) not needed on the street but, it all helps.
SBC's are GR8 engines IMO and they do not need alot of help but as with any thing in mass production there is room for improvement.
Major modifacation is not needed but minor smoothing and radiusing is awesome for a happy long living engine.

Just a question how long do you have to spend on this new engine is time frame important. You can smooth the lifter valley completely instead of painting as an option it just takes alot of time, belive me I have done it a few times. Better than painting IMO but, also not NEEDED just an option. RJ22

I got hold of a guy that has built allot of motors & he said he done the very same thing you mentioned. He completely smoothed out the lifter valley. He also mentioned using screens in the oil galley drain holes. I’m not sure about this, my main concern would be blockage over time. Have you heard of this?
s/t

[Sport/Truck]

Originally Posted by RACINJASON22

I agree with them more than you know. RV cam can cover alot of things. This is what cam manufaturers are in buisness to do. Listen to them and you will be happier in the end. Don't fudge the #'s either let them how you will run the engine on a real world normal basis. I.E. don't tell them you want a drag stip terror and think that it will perform GR8 on the street as a hot a** daily driver cause it won't. I'm a speed freak and I have over camed more than once to learn my lesson. RJ22

Words of wisdom, that’s what I like. Now that I have the info on my bore size I can stat shopping.
s/t

[cooters]

I have built many strokers and they hold up as well as a 350. As fgar as cam choices stay away from comp cams. They have had so many problems in the last year but wont admit it. I now build most of my motors with roller cams, no more cam problems.

[RACINJASON22]

1.I agree with cooters to a point but, I really don't think it comp persay. I may be wrong here but, I will go out on a limb. I would be willing to bet that most of the cam manufatuers are having problems as of late due more to oil than to there product.
If you are building an engine of the caliber you seem to be a roller is a good option as cooters said. It will take out the wear factor with problems being had and, the power gains are substantal being of a better profile IMO.

2.s/t bore size has very little to do with cam choice IMO I.E. .030 over .060 over 350 block when building a stroker as you are 383, or 388 very little difference and cam won't know the difference at all. The BIG points are gears, tranny options, truck itself 2wd 4x4, & the way the truck will be driven real world speaking. any and all factor should be taken into account here. Just my .02 on the subject.

[71Chevy4-speed]

Originally Posted by RACINJASON22

2.s/t bore size has very little to do with cam choice IMO I.E. .030 over .060 over 350 block when building a stroker as you are 383, or 388 very little difference and cam won't know the difference at all. The BIG points are gears, tranny options, truck itself 2wd 4x4, & the way the truck will be driven real world speaking. any and all factor should be taken into account here. Just my .02 on the subject.

Agreed also heads matching cam makes a difference. Matching parts makes power not the biggest of everything. Also bore size .030 vs .060 does not make that much difference but displacement does, a 383 will take a big cam from a 350 and act like a smaller cam due to more cubes needing the air the cam provides. That being said I agree with David Vizard(any of his books are great) 400's and 383's are undervalved engines. That also said I don't mean go looking for more duration to make up for it. Don't go to big as RJ22 has said. Look for a cam with enough but not to much duration and more valve lift, 1.6 ratio rockers can help with this. I have a 406 build in mine sometime and am looking at the isky megacam 280. .480 lift and 232 at .050 I want to add 1.6 rockers to get the lift upto .517 but stay with less duration that the 292 isky that offers just over .500 lift.

[Sport/Truck]

Thanks for the cam advice. From what I’ve been reading the cam failures are caused by today’s oil. I’m going to ask what oil I need to use to break this in too.
I’ll look into the 1.6 lifters, not that I have threaded studs in my heads.
s/t

[cooters]

always use moly on the cam and add a bottle of lucas oil stabilizer to every oil change. Comp has had alot of cams break in half and wont admit it. All cam companies are having problems due to oil now has no additives anymore but comp is ignorant and doesnt care. Crane admits problems and gives good warranties.

[Kager67]

I use Rotella oil in my rigs now. I think alot of the cam manufacturers recommend doing this. Rotella is a diesel engine oil. It still has the zink in it(and whatever else). I buy mine at Menards, that is the cheapest place I have found. It is available in gallon jugs, and I usually buy four or five gallons at time. You can get it in many different viscosities also.

kage

[martinkh]

I like the profile on the crane cams 260-2 I think it is. Go to their website, check out their pn 119815. It would give a smooth idle, it would match a performer or other true dual plane manifold. I had one in a 71 el camino, 350, Holley contender low rise dual plane manifold, and a q-jet. That combo brought my power up and increased my fuel economy by about 40% over the stock 2-barrel.

You could put this cam in, then play with putting 1.6 ratio rocker arms on it to get more lift. This cam should seriously kick butt in daily-driver/rock crawler/tow truck applications, and have great passing power.

[Sport/Truck]

I got the block today and all my grinding burrs and such. Does anyone know a good link that describes how much to grind off on the oil galleys?
s/t

[1968SWBBigBlock]

Many of the cam failures are the result of flat tappet lifter production being moved off shore! This happened around the same time oils began to change.
I understand delco still makes thier own lifters and they will work with any brand of cam. These are said to be good lifters. Don't forget about Rhodes brand lifters. It has been years since I ran a set but they worked very well in my last small block