3 " Lowering Block Kit - Get in the Zone

[Zumo]

Autozone sells a 1", 2" & 3" lowering block kit. It's universal. I picked the 3 " one up for 34 bucks. Comes with ubolt, block and all hardware. I'll try to get it installed this weekend. I had a set of 2" block on a little Isuzu truck years ago that seemed to be ok.

[Rdrdave]

Careful with those cast aluminum things. They have a tendency to snap in pieces and leave you with one butt cheek in the air! LOL!

[powell72]

Zumo, is your truck leaf? I can't imagine a universal kit working for a coil truck.

[Zumo]

It's a coil. It was an impulse buy, but I am still gonna try so we'll see. I kept the receipt.

[LUV2XCLR8]

j/k - Be sure to snap a few after they are installed

[cdowns]

before installing you just might want to slide them on the ground under the trailing arms to see how much ground clearance you'll have when installed

[special-K]

That`s the problem with blocks,especially 3".The arms are way down there at the axle.

[Zumo]

Ok. Thanks for the help guys. I am a little skeptical but not enough to keep me from doing it.

[7T2]

I have heard to stay away from the cast ones as well. I picked up a set of (I think) 2" ones at Pep Boys for the same price, and they are extruded aluminum, which is supposed to hold up better. It's looking like I'm not going to need them though.

[byrd]

I would not reccomend anything over a 2" block for our truck, The 3" like others have said will put the trailing arms too close to the ground and will be dangerous, just my .02...Randy

[Zumo]

Didn' think about that. They did have 2" blocks too.

[glock35ipsc]

Originally Posted by byrd

I would not reccomend anything over a 2" block for our truck, The 3" like others have said will put the trailing arms too close to the ground and will be dangerous, just my .02...Randy

And one of the reasons it makes it dangerous is if you have a flat or a blow out, it will land the trailing arm on the ground. Imagine that digging into the pavement at 55mph+!

If any block extends the bottom of the trailing arm lower than the bottom edge of the rim, I wouldn't use it.

[jamis]

I dont think you can use the universal blocks on the coil spring rears. It takes a totally diffrent setup. I built my own and welded them in. The block must have the two big holes to run the U-bolt thru. From what I remember the universal ones are to small in length and width. I have 5" springs and 2" blocks and I had to use a 2 deg wedge to pitch the yoke to the right angle.

[Rdrdave]

You can use them as a "setup" to see what the truck will look like. Cheap but some work. Also think Tethered racing car or Boat anchor! In CA I believe there's a Vehicle Code on having any part of the vehicle below the rim line just for that reason of digging and making an anchoring point. Just a word of caution, you're a grown up...Have at it. By the way...cool truck and graphix!

[Longhorn Man]

You'll also want to look at where the end of the U bolts reach... the arm may be fine, the U bolt will be closer.

[Zumo]

I think I better exchange them for the 2" just ot be safe. I am glad I posted it here. I also borrowed a pick from a members build thread to try and figure it out here at work. Since I am not home in the garage.

Definatly looks like it will put my below the rim line.

[glock35ipsc]

Another thing to keep in mind.....when you add the blocks, it will extend your shocks too. Ex: 2" block will pull your shocks another 2" out. You can buy aftermarket lower shock mounts, or do what I did. I flipped mine upside down and side-to-side. I had to cut and reweld a small section on each one, but it helps to keep the shock from being too far extended, and it puts the shock bolt up rather than down where it could catch something since it is now lower to the ground.

[byrd]

shock relocators for the rear can be had for about $80 if you do not have the tools or expertise to do what glock did, and will solve the issue of travel in the same manner.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by glock35ipsc

Another thing to keep in mind.....when you add the blocks, it will extend your shocks too. Ex: 2" block will pull your shocks another 2" out. You can buy aftermarket lower shock mounts, or do what I did. I flipped mine upside down and side-to-side. I had to cut and reweld a small section on each one, but it helps to keep the shock from being too far extended, and it puts the shock bolt up rather than down where it could catch something since it is now lower to the ground.

I have to disagree with you on that one Glock. The blocks only move the rearend "up" in relation to the rest of the suspension and body. Blocks do not change the geometry between the arms, springs, shocks, etc.

The panhard angle does change since it ties to the rearend.

But you only need shorter shocks and relocators when you used lowering springs.

[glock35ipsc]

Ah-ha, I stand corrected I didn't even think of that. But hey, it's been three years since I did this to my truck, me old noggin is rapidly loosing storage space!

[Frizzle Fry]

Hey, at least your still standing and that is a cool idea for home made relocators BTW.

[glock35ipsc]

Cool idea = cheap in this case!

[Zumo]

I swapped them out for the 2". Eventually I plan to C notch and add my bags but for now I'just run som blocks and shorter springs up front.

[7T2]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

I have to disagree with you on that one Glock. The blocks only move the rearend "up" in relation to the rest of the suspension and body. Blocks do not change the geometry between the arms, springs, shocks, etc.

The panhard angle does change since it ties to the rearend.

But you only need shorter shocks and relocators when you used lowering springs.

Just to clarify (or confuse people more), with a trailing arm rear like the one pictured you can use the same shocks with lowering blocks because the shocks mount to the arm, not the axle. If you have a leaf spring rear end you might need to change shocks when using lowering blocks, because the shocks mount to the axle itself, which is what you are moving with lowering blocks.

[Tx Firefighter]

Andy, look in the FAQ at the article I did on lowering blocks. I show how to build some medieval burly ones for cheap. You can get the u-bolts at Ft Worth Champion Spring on Henderson Street. The article explains it all with pics.