What brand of wiring harness?

[rophle1]

What is everyone's opinion of the different harness brands? I'm planning on re-doing every inch of wire, so if you've got experience with the different types, please give me all the pros and cons of each.

Thanks.
Ronnie

[rodstored-72]

ROPHLE1,
i have done the same & all i used was from m & h harnesses. i would highly recommend them. they are very factory friendly. i guess my 2nd best would probably be painless.

good luck!!

rodstored-72

[cstm68]

i used the painless one for my build. it took me about a week to finish but that could be because im ony 17 and still in school.
pros:
every wire is labled every 16 inches of so,
it is already zip tyed in to the different sections
it comes with an 18 curcit push in fuse box
all plugs are already connected
good instructions

cons :
it comes with a maxi fuse for if using a one wire altornator whitch and be confusing

the price

all and all i am very happy with the product
PM me with any other questions

[Musclerodz]

If you are going back stock, American Auto Wire is hard to beat. Their harnesses are even correctly color coded as well. No negatives with AAW.

Mike

[gunnersm8]

hey do those kits come with the plugs for headlights/taillights etc? Are they already installed?

[GMCPaul]

We carry the M&H wiring harnesses and they are 100% exactly like factory in appearance, only difference is wire insulation & plastic connectors are made using the latest technology so there made better to resists the elements better than original harnesses.
GMCPaul

[shifty]

hey Paul,

does M&H offer an aftermarket solution like Painless? I'm interested in upgrading my wiring to something more modern with leads for my electric fuel pump and sending unit near the back bumper, amongst other things. I'm curious if I'm stuck using Painless on this one.

[GMCPaul]

Since the M&H harnesses are factory original you do not have additional fuse locations to add additional circuits. You can always use the 1/2 dozen spade terminals located on the stock style fuse blocks to protect some new circuits & HIGH AMPERAGE draw components such as Amps should be wired direct to the junction block on passenger fender with a heavy grade in-line fuse or circuit breaker.
But if you need more than that a painless wire harness would be the solution.
GMCPaul

[rophle1]

Hey Paul,
Do you have a part number handy for an entire harness?

It's a '68 BB 396 with HEI and AC. Let me know what other info you need.

[Musclerodz]

Originally Posted by gunnersm8

hey do those kits come with the plugs for headlights/taillights etc? Are they already installed?

Factory Fit harness come preassembled whenever possible and also use the latest in wire technology. Some harness require some assembly due to passing through grommets the plugs won't fit through. GM parts are used in the harnesses when available.

Mike

[GMCPaul]

rophle1 Because of all the variables on each truck we don't have kits made to do the entire truck as some may want new radio power wires, heater harness w/o A/C and a fuel sending wire in his kit and the next guy wants none of those 3 but instead wants the under dash courtesy light harness with light, best thing I can say is email me with a list of which harnesses you want or just start on this page of our web site adding the the specific harnesses you need
http://www.gmcpauls.com/Electrical.htm
then each of the following pages
http://www.gmcpauls.com/wiring_harnesses.htm
http://www.gmcpauls.com/wireharness2.htm
http://www.gmcpauls.com/wire_harness_3.htm
until you have all you want for your truck.

[rophle1]

A couple of weeks ago, someone put a link up for an EZ wiring harness on ebay that fit our trucks. Does anyone still have that link?

[MiniD]

I've used M&H with all 4 of my chevies and have not had a single issue with them. The come with all the connectors on them (headlights, side marker holders, etc...). They can be custom ordered with HEI options and alternators on the passenger side and so forth, but still use the original fuse box (as stated above) and that puts some limits on them.

I have a friend that has used the painless kit in both of his cars and swears by it.

[gunnersm8]

Originally Posted by Musclerodz

Factory Fit harness come preassembled whenever possible and also use the latest in wire technology. Some harness require some assembly due to passing through grommets the plugs won't fit through. GM parts are used in the harnesses when available.

Mike

what about the painless/ez fit, what-have-you?

[Musclerodz]

Originally Posted by gunnersm8

what about the painless/ez fit, what-have-you?

I don;t like Painless because of how incomplete they are and you have a mess of wires bundled under the panel for all the extra circuits you did not use. I really hope AAW comes out with a retro harness soon, but they are one of the most complete aftermarket harnesses available. They have them already for all the earlier Chevy trucks now. You could use AAW's Street Rod Highway series harness which is stupidly simple to install, no extra wires, and comes with ignition switch, headlight switch and dimmer switch and most of the connectors. Available in either a 22 circuit or 15 circuit.

Mike

[gunnersm8]

saw that one just now. looks like a pretty nice set up. about the price i was looking at too.

[Musclerodz]

Originally Posted by gunnersm8

saw that one just now. looks like a pretty nice set up. about the price i was looking at too.

and I have them 10% off if you call and place your order right now

Mike

[shifty]

Hey Mike,

What kind of wiring harness from AAW would you recommend for a guy like me who has:

- '68 pickup
- Added an LS1 out of an '01 TA WS6
- Using the factory LS1 harness (hacked - only requires tying into purple IGN lead on stock '68 harness)
- Using the factory '68 harness for horn, lights, blinkers, trailer, dash lights, fuel sender, radio
- factory 12v regulator is deleted
- A/C is deleted, so is the air/heat box under the dash
- Have dual electric fans (requires 2 relays + power + fuse)
- Electric fuel pump (requires 1 relay + power + fuse)
- Uses single-wire alternator
- Adding power windows later
- Adding power door locks later
- Using aftermarket Flaming River column
- Eventually using aftermarket gauges
- I have the towing/trailering lights package intact
- Radio and cig lighter are intact

Just curious what options are available. I am happy with the look and feel of the Painless kit I worked with on another board member's truck, but there were a lot of add'l wires I didn't need, I thought the one-wire alternator "master fuse" crap was a joke, and the fitment of the bulkhead to the firewall was craptastic at best - looked sloppy as hell IMHO -- but the flexibility of the Painless kits is nice, fuel pump leads, power window and door leads, etc.

[Musclerodz]

Originally Posted by shifty

Hey Mike,

What kind of wiring harness from AAW would you recommend for a guy like me who has:

- '68 pickup
- Added an LS1 out of an '01 TA WS6
- Using the factory LS1 harness (hacked - only requires tying into purple IGN lead on stock '68 harness)
- Using the factory '68 harness for horn, lights, blinkers, trailer, dash lights, fuel sender, radio
- factory 12v regulator is deleted
- A/C is deleted, so is the air/heat box under the dash
- Have dual electric fans (requires 2 relays + power + fuse)
- Electric fuel pump (requires 1 relay + power + fuse)
- Uses single-wire alternator
- Adding power windows later
- Adding power door locks later
- Using aftermarket Flaming River column
- Eventually using aftermarket gauges
- I have the towing/trailering lights package intact
- Radio and cig lighter are intact

Just curious what options are available. I am happy with the look and feel of the Painless kit I worked with on another board member's truck, but there were a lot of add'l wires I didn't need, I thought the one-wire alternator "master fuse" crap was a joke, and the fitment of the bulkhead to the firewall was craptastic at best - looked sloppy as hell IMHO -- but the flexibility of the Painless kits is nice, fuel pump leads, power window and door leads, etc.

The Highway 22 would be perfect for your set up.

copied right from aaw:
Modular wiring system
22 power circuits supported through 15 fuses and 1 circuit breaker
Battery and accessory power tap studs provided for system expansion
Panel protected with a 175 amp Mega-Fuse junction block with a 8 gauge panel feed wire
Nylon mechanically secured panel containing secondary push-back locks, has a 7-1/2” x 4-1/2” footprint, 3-3/8”in height,
and mounted on a (G10) non conductive epoxy base
All power buss bars are constructed of 6 gauge copper
All wires are constructed from heat resistant (-60F- +275F)
GXL heavy-wall wire with laser printed circuit identification every 2 inches
GM color coded wires for ease of installation
All power circuits wires are 12 gauge constructed
New front loaded vibration proof self- locking (Hooke’s Law) screw down terminal connection
Dedicated battery and ignition circuits for electronic fuel injection (EFI) Kit contains 3 relays (Horn, Turn Signal & 40 amp Electric Fan or Fuel Pump)
Turn signal and hazard flasher circuits provided
8 gauge alternator feed wire provided
The kit is set-up for a GM “SI” internally regulated alternator or GM 1-wire
Alternator diode is also provided
Kit includes 3 (In-dash Ignition, Headlight & Alum. Knob and Floor Dimmer) switches
GM in-column ignition switch connectors provided, along with 3-7/8” GM steering column connectors with male and female terminals
Plugs directly most 69-74 GM column and most after market steering columns or use the terminals and connector provided to mate to any column
Spare circuits available (for power windows, locks, cruise, etc.).
Engine compartment (oil pressure, water temp, tach, starter, neutral safety, brake switch, ignition switch, distributor (GM HEI or Points), coil, main power and alternator)
Chassis wiring (fuel pump, electric fan, headlights, running lights, brake lights, 3rd brake lt., directional, license plate, radio, heat & AC, and wipers)
Full color schematic of overall vehicle wiring along with individual harness subkit instructions for trouble-free installation.

Catalog price is $429 but I have it on sale right now. The cool thing about this setup is no wires bundled up under the dash. If you are not using it, you can simply add to it later.

Mike

[JWPOORE]

Hi Mike - I would like to have all my wires/electrical system upgraded in my 70 K5 Blazer. Would the Highway 22 work for my vehicle? I probably will not ever put in power locks and windows, but will be putting in amps/stereo components, bigger alternator/extra battery, etc and having the option to always add it on later is a nice option.

Is this the best fit for me or is the Highway 15 or something completely different a better option? I have no clue about this, but would like to have my entire electrical system upgraded to todays standard. Is there any other wiring kits needed in addition to these systems or does this completely cover all electrical needs for a vehicle? Thanks so much for any help on this.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by Musclerodz

The Highway 22 would be perfect for your set up.

I saw that at their site - do you have a close-up shot of that box? I want to see what you mean by "no wires showing", it looks like you slide the wires into the bottom and tighten them down, and I'm not sure how that would actually look installed in the truck.

Do you know anyone who has installed one of those into our trucks? Curious how much trimming is involved, and what the fitment is like. Pics would be great (you got a sale riding on it )

[68 P.O.S.]

rophle1: With all of the hijacking above aside, I have a Painless 18 circuit harness and am very happy with it. At the time I bought it mine, I wasn't a board member and Painless was the only one I knew of. Although Painless is a damn good product, in retrospect I think I would have gone with the AAW harness mainly because you won't have the extra unused wires until you need them. Just my opinion.

[sleepyboy]

Did a painless....Either way, ALL of them take time and a little Kentucky windage

[Musclerodz]

Originally Posted by shifty

I saw that at their site - do you have a close-up shot of that box? I want to see what you mean by "no wires showing", it looks like you slide the wires into the bottom and tighten them down, and I'm not sure how that would actually look installed in the truck.

Do you know anyone who has installed one of those into our trucks? Curious how much trimming is involved, and what the fitment is like. Pics would be great (you got a sale riding on it )

The pic above is the largest i can find except in their print catalog. Correct, wire slide in the bottom and use a screw connector to hold in place. If you are not using a circuit, you don"t install wiring for that circuit so no bundled wires under the dash. Don't know of one installed in our trucks yet. I will be installing one in my K5 in a few months once the paint and body is finished. It won't be a direct bolt in deal. Since the wires don;t come out the back, it mounts flat to the firewall. There is a master firewall disconnect (not included and costs $17 or less depending on how many wire) that can be used to pass thru the original opening. You will also have to buy headlight a tail light sockets since this is a universal harness. I can go into more detail if you want to call or pm me.

Mike

[Musclerodz]

Originally Posted by JWPOORE

Hi Mike - I would like to have all my wires/electrical system upgraded in my 70 K5 Blazer. Would the Highway 22 work for my vehicle? I probably will not ever put in power locks and windows, but will be putting in amps/stereo components, bigger alternator/extra battery, etc and having the option to always add it on later is a nice option.

Is this the best fit for me or is the Highway 15 or something completely different a better option? I have no clue about this, but would like to have my entire electrical system upgraded to todays standard. Is there any other wiring kits needed in addition to these systems or does this completely cover all electrical needs for a vehicle? Thanks so much for any help on this.

The Hwy 15 is the same but with fewer circuits and mainly for a basic electrical system, so if you ever plan to add anything in the future the 22 would be better out of the 2 units.