Tips on getting the last 3/4 inch when installin motor?

[Moneypit]

OK, so I should have just pulled the trans with the motor and avoided this problem but I was being lazy. Now I am trying to reinstall the motor and I can get it to seat against the bell housing. There is about 3/4 of an inch gap and I just cannot get it to go back anymore. I know it is a bad idea to try and pull it together with the bolts so I was wondering if anyone had any advice. TIA.

[rage'nrat638]

its a matter of aligning the trans and engine level with each other..

floor jack under the transmission moving up and down and pushing back on the engine at the same time..

just make sure your converter is pushed all the way back in

there should be 3/8-1/2 gap between the converter and flex plate..

and i have had to align best possible and draw things together with longer bolts before..

but..be smart about it, if it don't go very easy..somethings not right..

make sure someone did not hammer of the alignment pins and bugger them up..

be patient, take your time do it right the first time

[JHART]

I was just about to mention the converter ........

You could also loosen up the tranny and the cross member .... this will allow you to move the tranny a bit. Might help out.

[LockDoc]

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I am presuming auto trans, but it would be nice to know for sure.... If auto, the trans is not seated all the way into the torque converter. This will get your post back to the top and maybe someone with more transmission experience will chime in.

LockDoc

p.s. That's what I get for typing so slow......

[Moneypit]

guess I should have mentioned it is a 3spd manual and 305. I got the jack under the trans, guess I just need to play with it some more. It got dark and supper wasn't cooked yet . Oh well, there's always tomorrow. Thanks guys!

[glock35ipsc]

Yeah, different answers depending on if it's an auto or a manual.

[old Chevy guy]

That last 3/4 is the input shaft into the pilot bushing. Are you sure the clutch is lined up? Its not generally recomended but ive done the bolt trick of which you speak. as long as you do two bolts one on each side,tightend even like you should be all right as long as it walks in with not to much effert. If it feels like your forcing it of course Id stop.

[LockDoc]

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Now we really need more info..... New pilot bearing? New clutch or pressure plate? New HEI? Comon' throw us a bone.....

LockDoc

[Moneypit]

Ok I guess that is what I get for assuming. Too much info is better than not enough so here goes. New intake manifold, carb, cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers, HEI, heads checked and valve job done at machine shop, all new gaskets throughout entire engine, new pilot bearing, clutch/pressure plate, and same flywheel. If anymore info is required please let me know and I appreciate all the help so far. Thanks guys!

[rwgregory]

It sounds to me like your clutch disk isn't perfectly centered and the input shaft of the trans is hitting the pilot bushing. Use a wooden "dummy pilot shaft" to get everything lined up and then your bell housing should mate up with the engine much easier.

[krue]

Remind me to post pics of what happens if you tighten the bellhousing bolts w/o having the t/c all the way in.

[72gord]

Also take a look to see if the throw out bearing is touching the pressure plate, might be holding you apart that last 3/4 inch

[LockDoc]

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OK, I think I would agree with "rwgregory". If you didn't, you should be able to rent a pilot shaft tool or clutch alignment tool at your local parts store. Use it to line up the clutch with the pilot bearing. http://www.clutchtools.com/ . If you have already done this then I think you may not have the input shaft lined up with the pilot. Sometimes you have to lift up on the front of the tranny as well as the back while installing it to line up the pilot. If this doesn't work let us know, there are a couple of other things that could cause this.

LockDoc

[cstm68]

how many fingers does the pressure plate have ?
i dont think the 3 finger ones work with the 3 speeds

[stllookn]

As long as you pre-aligned the clutch and pressure plate first and most important....I have found that a load leveler makes it incredibly easy as well. I have always resisted using one but found a used one on craigslist for $15 and it paid for itself on my recent engine install...15 minutes at most and no juggling of the motor...one adjustment on the tranny jack and it was done.

[Longhorn Man]

put the tranny in grear, jack up the rear of the truck a bit, and turn the driveshaft a tad as you try and slide them together.
Another trtuck, is to get in the truck, and depress the clutch pedal... kinda hard with the stupid z bar set up though... you could bolt it all up and then hit the pedal I guess.

[Moneypit]

Well work kept me out until just a few minutes ago and I'm not going to get to try anything tonight, but hopefully tomorrow after work. Yes, the clutch kit come with a clutch alignment tool which I used. The pressure plate has several fingers on it, I'm not sure exactly how many though.

I'm thinking I'm going to try a few of things you guys have suggested and if that doesn't work I will pull the trans loose, bolt down then engine then put the trans in. Thanks alot guys!

[68C15]

or you could remove the motor mount towers. that way the engine can be lowered to be level with the trans. the it should all just slide together.

[RustyParts]

Hopefully the new pilot bearing has the same diameter for the transmission as the old one.