New steering box question

[sigurd]

I put a rebuilt box on my 72k10 that I got from Napa. No problems with the install. I had just put a new pump and lines on it a few months ago so I figured I would do it all the way.

When I put the new box on and took it for a spin the steering was so hard it felt like I did not have power steering at all. My steering is more responsive, meaning when I turn the wheel left or right the tire move right away.

Now I know that there is at least one adjustment I can make on the box. If I loosen that locknut and back off that allen bolt, will that make the steering looser or less responsive when I turn left or right? In other words will backing off that allen bolt make it take more time untill the tires start moving when I turn the steering wheel?

Thanks for any advice.
James

[rlm316]

here is a bump for you

[sigurd]

ttt

[Sport/Truck]

Perhaps you didn’t get the air purged out good? Not sure about the adjustment tho.
s/t

[sigurd]

Purge the system? I did not attempt to get any air out of the system. Anybody with any tips on how to do get any air out of the system out?

Thanks,
James

[LockDoc]

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I'm not sure I would mess with the adjustment at this point. As stated by Sport/Truck I would double check and make sure you have all of the air out of the system. Be sure and use a service manual for instructions on bleeding the air out of the system and /or any adjustments you make. I took the slack out of a steering box by using the adjustment screw once and when I turned the first corner on the test drive the steering wheel would not turn back to center and I ended up going through a fence and almost hit a tree. Adjustment on steering boxes is not as easy as it appears....

LockDoc

[RustyParts]

You purge the air by turning the steering wheel left until it hits the stop and then turn it all the way to the right until hits the stop. Do this several times making sure to check the fluid level.

There are two adjustments that can be performed, the allen bolt bolt adjusts the worm gear to prevent road wander and has to have the pitman arm removed in order to perform.

The other is a spanner nut on the input shaft to adjust the responsiveness of the gear box. Both should have been set if the box is new or rebuilt.

You might check for something binding in the steering linkages and also the belt pulley which might worn letting the belt slip.

Good luck.

[LockDoc]

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This is according to CCP:

V-Belt System

1. Fill the steering system with your high quality fluid and let it set undisturbed for a few minutes while you recheck your work. Leave the reservoir cap off. Use this time to wipe the components off in preparation for leak check and visually inspect the hose routing, belt alignment and attaching hardware.

2. After your inspection, raise the front wheels off the gound and support the vehicle. Without starting the engine slowly begin to cycle the steering wheel. The key here is "slowly"; about 1 revolution per 8-10 seconds. Continue to top off the fluid level at the reservoir. When the level remains steady, inspect for leaks and start the engine.

3. Check the fluid level and inspect for leaks. Some vane type pumps require 1000 RPM or more to take the fluid down. Slowly cycle the steering wheel in both directions, lightly contacting the wheel stops. Continue to check the fluid level and add if necessary. If the pump begins to get noisy, turn the engine off and let the system set for 15 minutes. Air in the system will cause the pump to growl and the fluid level may rise when the engine is turned off.

4. Repeat the above steps until the system is operating normally. If air is still a problem after several rest periods, it may be that air is entering the system faster than it can be expelled at the reservoir fill. Look for leaks. Even the smallest of fluid leaks can be a source of massive amounts of air entering the system.

5. Always test drive the vehicle, making sure it is safe.

LockDoc

[sigurd]

Thank you all very much. Glad I did not hit any trees.......