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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Arkansas City, Ks
Posts: 32
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As a fairly new rebuilder, I'm lookin' for advice and pitfals concerned with rebuilding the Drum barkes on my truck.
It's a '67 with drums on all corners. planning on changing the wheel cylinders, shoes and hardware all the way around, along with the front wheel bearing, which as part of the drum will come out anyway. Thanks for any advice you guys might be able to give me and pitfalls I can look out for along the way. ![]()
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'67 LWB Fleetside w/ 283 & powerglide Edelbrock intake and 1406 carb K&N filter, Flowmater 40's |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Killingworth, CT. USA
Posts: 3,378
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Sounds like you have it under control, but also give special attention to the steel brake lines that feed the wheel cylinders, especially the one that runs along the frame and feeds the rear brakes. Look for rust. Check your brake hoses, front and rear for cracks and bulges. Have your drums measured to be sure they are within legal limits and resufaced if needed. If possible, it's best to have the drums within .015 of each other side to side. Don't forget to replace the front grease seals. In the rear, check the e-brake cables, they should operate freely, no sticking. If this is a high mileage truck, check the front and rear backing plates where the shoes make contact for eccessive wear, the shoes tend to wear a groove into the backing plate and can cause the shoes not to return fully giving you uneven braking (pulling). Hope this helps.
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1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Arkansas City, Ks
Posts: 32
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well both the front hoses are less tan 6 months old.....
drums are gonna be turned.... will look out for the backin' plates.... the need cleaned really well and I think I'm gonna go ahead and repaint them while they're off the truck Thanks for the input
__________________
'67 LWB Fleetside w/ 283 & powerglide Edelbrock intake and 1406 carb K&N filter, Flowmater 40's |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Southern California U.S.A.
Posts: 276
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"Drecarious" I have a 68 that I will be going thru the brakes, using the same approach as yourself. I brought up this same subject, to our boardmembers up a couple of weeks ago & was advised to use Kevlar or Raybestos "Silver Edition" shoes. To date, I have been unable to get any info or find them locally. I would think that any auto supply could get these products for our popular old trucks, but that is not the case. They want to sell me their basic product, which I have purchased in the past for my old classic vehicles, only to be disappointed because they only perform marginally, at best. I want to do more research before I buy again. What are your plans for material & manufacturer of shoes?
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#5 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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