Changing '72 rear coils - what a mess

[Billla]

I finally decided that I was just going to replace the rear springs on my '72 with the stock springs I have. I'm not (financially) ready to do the drop, but the top frame "holder" was pretty much completely rusted away.

I started tearing into this over the weekend - what a mess The driver's side spring just came right out - I frankly don't know what was holding it in other than my love for the old girl Everything's a rusted chunk of garbage.

Anyone been through this and want to offer some tips? I was hoping to leave the U-bolts on the diff attached, but replace the front trailing arm bushings and the panhard rod bushings with the High Energy Suspension stuff I bought. Can I detach the front bushings without removing the arms completely? Is burning out the old rubber bushings really the best way?

THANKS!

[dave2953]

I burned mine out and took them off the truck. I guess you could use the rear end as a pivot point and let the front of the trailing arms drop down when they're unbolted. (I'm trying to picture this in my head; not sure if it's possible) The new energy suspension bushings I used were a two piece design and were extremley easy to install. Not sure how much help I've been; maybe someone else can chime in with a better idea.

[Alan's Classic]

I'm doing a frame off, and just finished stripping the rear end down. You might want to take the U bolts out and inspect them. I had no idea that mine were that corroded. If your spring just fell out you might have the same problem I do.

If you decided not too, I think you can change the bushings while the rearend is still in the truck. Now that I think about it you might not be able to rotate it down far enough with the other hooked up. If it does rotate then you can use this little trick for pressing bushings. You might already know about it. Get a 1' piece of threaded rod and required washers and 3 nuts (jam 2 together so you can keep the rod from turning). Also one socket or piece of pipe large enough for the bushing to press (fall) into. Tighten nut apply a little heat and keep tightening it should start moving. It worked great on mine. I left the outer sleeve installed in the arm cause somewhere I read it doesn't come with your new bushings. I hope this is easy to understand.

Good Luck
Alan

[Billla]

Alan, that was some great thinking - thank you. I do have delaminiation under the diff, but I think they're solid enough to last for a year until I have my new frame ready.

I ended up having to cut/grind every bolt to get everything out, but I finally finished it tonight. About 6 hours work all told.

I'm leaving the panhard rod for another project, and I think I'll wait on the trailing arms until I start on my new chassis.