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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Edgerton MN
Posts: 74
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painting the frame question
I plan on sandblastin my frame this weekend and am then planning on puttin on a coat or two of rust encapsulator from eastwood. is this stuff hard enough that i do not have to put a coat of paint on it or will it just chip away? a question with sandblastin do i have to cover the rear end, suspension or the front steerin linkage?
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#2 |
The Crazy Machanic
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Nokesville Va
Posts: 1,437
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Re: paintin the frame question
no but you might want tpo clean everything real good when finish sandblasting also cover the engine from undernieth so no sand goes past the oil pan and up. as well as the transmission.
__________________
*1986 Sliverado longbed 400 small block mean as hell, 700r4 trans (5 speed coming one day) ![]() * 1970 chevelle 2dr sedan Latest update June 24 2007. ![]() *1957 4 door stationwagon - pink all original needing a good restore (body great, floors bad) ![]() newest additions 1965 shortbed fleet great granddads. Been told im nuts to bring it back from the dead (still going to happen) plans-all stock with a turbo 292 inline 3 speed column shift. and thats it big block 427 and 5 speed trans and ford 9 inch theyhave no home yet thinking what to put them in and a 79 c60 trash truck um no idea i have one ![]() |
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#3 |
Live fast, die young
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 293
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Re: paintin the frame question
I'd go with POR-15, myself. That stuff is tough as nails and looks twice as good.
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Central Maine
Posts: 210
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Re: paintin the frame question
I did some test pieces on my frame this spring with Rust Encapsulator. You absolutely do not want to use it on untreated bare metal or you will get rust creep within a month or so. On another section, I laid it atop a coat of Krylon rattlecan primer and haven't seen a hint of creep yet. If you really want it to stick, use Eastwood's $99 chassis coating kit with a 2-part rust converter.
I've also used POR-15 with good results painting directly to rusty metal, just knocking the scale off. That car later became one of very few 80's G-Body frames to survive 20+ years of Maine winters. |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Edgerton MN
Posts: 74
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Re: paintin the frame question
so rust encapsulator will not hold to a sand blasted frame? will por 15?
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Central Maine
Posts: 210
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Re: paintin the frame question
I didn't blast my test pieces, so there was a bit of rust left behind when I painted. Adhesion wasn't a problem to bare metal, but the surface wasn't completely sealed by the Rust Encapsulator alone. Within a couple weeks, rust began to creep out around seams and rivets. The next time I do it, I'll sandblast the frame, then use either Rust Converter or self-etching primer on the bare metal followed by Rust Encapsulator, then a "chassis black" topcoat.
Long story short... Whether it be POR-15 or Eastwood, it's best to use all recommended components in their system. Here's a 2003 article featuring a side-by-side test:http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...rID=173&KICKER |
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#7 |
BAD BOW-Silverado XST
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Senior Member from Austin, TX
Posts: 6,431
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Re: paintin the frame question
I switched from POR-15 to NoRust. NoRust I think looks better. POR-15 with time will fad. Checkout the suspension pictures I have in my signature. I used POR-15 on the a-arms. I'm using NoRust on everthing else.
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Edgerton MN
Posts: 74
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Re: painting the frame question
do you have to paint over this no rust stuff or is it a stand alone deal? do i have to lay a coat of primer on before using it? where did you pick it up at? thanks
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#9 |
bigmike
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Dallas,Texas
Posts: 22
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Re: painting the frame question
I have used por-15 and I have also used Imron. The por-15 does fade and is a 3or4 step paint. Imron is a 2 stage and can be applied directly to bare metal. Imron 2.8, is available in high gloss and flat but is costly to get in colors other than black and red. Imron is an industrial type coating that seems to be almost like powder coating. I use my primering gun though, because it is soo thick it will not run thru a finishing gun. I use imron on lots of applications outside automotive and I like it the best.
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 378
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Re: painting the frame question
POR-15 can be brushed on with a foam or cheap bristle brush. If you use the gloss POR-15, it will look like powder coating when dry. The down side is, according to their directions, it will fade out if exposed to UV rays. You can top coat it with their chassis black top coat. POR-15 seems to be very tough. However, I only just applied it on my 77 so I don't have any long term comments to pass along. I would hit the frame enough to clean all loose stuff off with a light sanding using one of those sanding sponges from 3M and some water. Let dry overnite and go after it. I'm painting my frame little by little with left over POR-15 from other projects on the truck to keep from wasting it: $25 a pint! I'll attach a shot of the behind the grille area on my 77 Bonanza. You can also see the frame horns sticking out. I just cleaned them up a bit and painted them with POR-15 gloss black. Same with the roll bar. I changed over to semi gloss black after I used the pint of gloss, but don't like it as well: doesn't flow like the gloss and seems to be harder to get looking good with a brush. The next can will be gloss.
![]() Last edited by LBJ; 08-08-2007 at 05:39 PM. |
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#11 |
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 6,935
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Re: painting the frame question
I painted my frame with POR15 and then top coated it with Black enamel after the paint had become tacky. Holds up pretty well and isn't UV sensative.
These parts didn't recieve the topcoat. ![]()
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 12,201
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Re: painting the frame question
I used this stuff, very sinilar to POR15 (only cheaper) and they have UV and non-UV resistance stuff. www.nomorerust.com Came out "like powdercoat" too and I only used a foam brush....
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The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer" |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Edgerton MN
Posts: 74
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Re: painting the frame question
well i plan on using an air gun to apply it and am still leaning to rust encapsulator, but i just want to make sure that i order everything i need so that i am not waitin to start assembling bc i had to go back and order more stuff. so how much should i order to cover my whole frame and the under body of my bed and cab?
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 12,201
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Re: painting the frame question
I would ask Eastwood... I brushed mine on and didn't even use 2 quarts but that's no overspray...
__________________
The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer" Last edited by msgross; 08-08-2007 at 08:21 PM. |
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Edgerton MN
Posts: 74
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Re: painting the frame question
http://www.nomorerust.com/black.htm
would this over coat work? my frame is not real rusted and should be quite clean after i sand blast it so i think this last right? thanks for the idea on the amount msgross Last edited by scotty101; 08-08-2007 at 08:35 PM. |
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#16 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 12,201
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Re: painting the frame question
Quote:
__________________
The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer" |
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Edgerton MN
Posts: 74
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Re: painting the frame question
msgross would you link me to the "other' stuff you are refering to. or are you talking about there silver primer stuff?
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#18 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 12,201
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Re: painting the frame question
http://nomorerust.com/ag111.htm
this comes in satin or gloss... you can mix a little or a lot. Key thing with these urathane paints (por-15 etc..) when you open the can then the clock begins, it will last for awhile in the can but it cures with the moisture in the air. Never buy it by the gallon....
__________________
The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer" |
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#19 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Edgerton MN
Posts: 74
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Re: painting the frame question
so would the kit they offer be enough to do a whole frame? or do i have to order two or just add another quart of the top coat?
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#20 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 12,201
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Re: painting the frame question
maybe just a plain frame. If you also want to do axles, springs or a longhorn then I would get two sets.
__________________
The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer" |
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#21 |
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 6,935
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Re: painting the frame question
Just to let you know, I spray POR15 on all through a gun.
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Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
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#22 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Edgerton MN
Posts: 74
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Re: painting the frame question
well i ordered two of there frame kits of ag111. they gave me a discount on it which was quite nice. although shippin is going to be spendy.
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#23 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 12,201
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Re: painting the frame question
cool, send pics. You could always resell any unopened cans...
__________________
The Garage: 1968 K-10 SWB - "Project Money Pit" 1996 Z-71 - "huntin rig" 1969 C-10 LWB (SOLD) "Project flip that truck or else" 1993 Passport, F@rd 1-ton (SOLD)"Project Cousin Eddie" My Garage Build "The 1,000 footer" |
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#24 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Midwest City, OK
Posts: 1,001
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Re: painting the frame question
Be sure to have a well ventilated area while brushing on Por15. Use a Organic vapor particulate respirator when spraying POR-15!
http://marine-paint.com/por-15-faq.htm
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Robert Current: 1986 SWB Silverado 4.3 / TH400 Past: 1985 SWB Silverado 305 / TH350 - sold 1995 1987 1/2 ton Silverado - FI 350 / 700R4 sold 2007 |
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#25 |
www.73-87chevytrucks.com
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 6,935
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Re: painting the frame question
and use some good rubber gloves and long sleeves, it WON'T come off skin easily and it won't come out of clothes.
__________________
Chris Lucas 1973 Chevy C-10 1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD 1987 R10 twin turbo LS 1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab 1985 K5 diesel swapped project 1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project Captkaos Customs 73-87chevytrucks.com |
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