Restored Drip Raills - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

VDOG · 09-05-2007, 01:13 PM

I want to keep my drip raills is there a way to clean them up? Mine is full or body filler. Does anyone have pictures of cleaned up drip raills?
Thanks

JameslovesJammie · 09-05-2007, 01:16 PM

Ditto...mine looks to be full of window caulk.

kyull67 · 09-05-2007, 01:23 PM

Take a wire wheel attached to an air powered die grinder or something similar to get them down to bare metal. Then use automotive seam sealer just like the factory did.

67ChevyRedneck · 09-05-2007, 01:29 PM

Yeah, that stuff is from the factory. It strips out pretty easy with a wire wheel, or if there's a good bit of rust under it, it will peel out with a scraper. Clean it all out REALLY well or rust WILL come back.

**Classic Bowties** · 09-05-2007, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

Clean it all out REALLY well or rust WILL come back.

do a real thorough job here, or it is just time spent & wasted. Cb

VDOG · 09-05-2007, 03:55 PM

Thanks fellas. That was the good side, you should i have to take pictures of the passenger side where the roof skin is peeling up.

67ChevyRedneck · 09-05-2007, 04:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VDOG

Thanks fellas. That was the good side, you should i have to take pictures of the passenger side where the roof skin is peeling up.

Uh oh

stllookn · 09-05-2007, 04:20 PM

Use a heat gun to remove the old seam sealer caulk. Final cleaning with a 10,000 rpm small diameter wire wheel works great on your air grinder. I use an etching primer under the new 2-part epoxy seam sealer. Or you can use the old GM seam caulk but the newer flexible epoxy seems more durable.

69RAT · 09-05-2007, 10:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stllookn

Use a heat gun to remove the old seam sealer caulk. Final cleaning with a 10,000 rpm small diameter wire wheel works great on your air grinder. I use an etching primer under the new 2-part epoxy seam sealer. Or you can use the old GM seam caulk but the newer flexible epoxy seems more durable.

I agree wholeheartedly. If you want a nice job get the regular 2-part for the back, after it sets use the self leveling 2-part on the sides and front. Just be careful with temperature it can set real fast!!! These come in a single tube w/miver nozzle or twin cartridge depending on your caulking gun.

VDOG · 09-06-2007, 01:25 PM

Thanks for the different options to handle the drip raills. I want that clean channelled look. So I want to use as less sealer as possible.

bad6772 · 09-06-2007, 06:11 PM

we use 3m flexable seam sealer at work i use it 1 or 2 days a week, it great stuff and will flex not crack like most 2 part systems........oyu may try this stuff out... thee are single part sealers also made by 3 m single part seam sealers will not require a gun to use, 3m makes one that you brush right out of the can, (with an acid brush) and my little tip on this kind is right before the sealer set up , have a latex glove on and dip you finger into thinner and rub gently over the sealer... it makes it smooth as glass ...and wont afeect the sealer.............hope this helps tony

VDOG · 09-12-2007, 08:29 PM

More pictures of drip rail rust. Once again I will take the advice you guys gave me. Unless one of you local members want to tackle this for me.

Select · 09-12-2007, 11:16 PM

ummmm. I'm still new to all this stuff....but I say scrap that cab and get another....Mikey

09-05-2007, 01:13 PM	#1
VDOG Grand PooBaa Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: LA, CA Posts: 5,302	Restored Drip Raills I want to keep my drip raills is there a way to clean them up? Mine is full or body filler. Does anyone have pictures of cleaned up drip raills? Thanks Attached Images

09-05-2007, 01:16 PM	#2
JameslovesJammie God Bless Mr. T Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Minot, ND Posts: 348	Re: Restored Drip Raills Ditto...mine looks to be full of window caulk. __________________ Like a midget at a urinal...sometimes you must stay on your toes.

09-05-2007, 01:23 PM	#3
kyull67 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Springfield/Kansas City Posts: 1,842	Re: Restored Drip Raills Take a wire wheel attached to an air powered die grinder or something similar to get them down to bare metal. Then use automotive seam sealer just like the factory did. __________________ The first '67 The current '67 '63 Biscayne Last edited by kyull67; 09-05-2007 at 01:35 PM. Reason: sp

09-05-2007, 01:29 PM	#4
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	Re: Restored Drip Raills Yeah, that stuff is from the factory. It strips out pretty easy with a wire wheel, or if there's a good bit of rust under it, it will peel out with a scraper. Clean it all out REALLY well or rust WILL come back. __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications!

09-05-2007, 03:55 PM	#6
VDOG Grand PooBaa Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: LA, CA Posts: 5,302	Re: Restored Drip Raills Thanks fellas. That was the good side, you should i have to take pictures of the passenger side where the roof skin is peeling up.

09-05-2007, 04:20 PM	#8
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,465	Re: Restored Drip Raills Use a heat gun to remove the old seam sealer caulk. Final cleaning with a 10,000 rpm small diameter wire wheel works great on your air grinder. I use an etching primer under the new 2-part epoxy seam sealer. Or you can use the old GM seam caulk but the newer flexible epoxy seems more durable. __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)

09-06-2007, 01:25 PM	#10
VDOG Grand PooBaa Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: LA, CA Posts: 5,302	Re: Restored Drip Raills Thanks for the different options to handle the drip raills. I want that clean channelled look. So I want to use as less sealer as possible.

09-06-2007, 06:11 PM	#11
bad6772 Official Site Guitar Shredder Join Date: May 2006 Location: Oz Posts: 3,955	Re: Restored Drip Raills we use 3m flexable seam sealer at work i use it 1 or 2 days a week, it great stuff and will flex not crack like most 2 part systems........oyu may try this stuff out... thee are single part sealers also made by 3 m single part seam sealers will not require a gun to use, 3m makes one that you brush right out of the can, (with an acid brush) and my little tip on this kind is right before the sealer set up , have a latex glove on and dip you finger into thinner and rub gently over the sealer... it makes it smooth as glass ...and wont afeect the sealer.............hope this helps tony

09-12-2007, 08:29 PM	#12
VDOG Grand PooBaa Member Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: LA, CA Posts: 5,302	Re: Restored Drip Raills More pictures of drip rail rust. Once again I will take the advice you guys gave me. Unless one of you local members want to tackle this for me. Attached Images

09-12-2007, 11:16 PM	#13
Select Friday's Toy Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ovilla, TX Posts: 574	Re: Restored Drip Raills ummmm. I'm still new to all this stuff....but I say scrap that cab and get another....Mikey __________________ 68 C10, SWB Fleetside with a 454, Turbo 400 and 4.11 posi....Exxon/Mobil loves me. 2009 Jeep Rubicon 2011 Powerstroke FX4 (totaled) 71 C10, SWB Fleet with factory tilt 72 LWB C10, 350 700R4 with factory tilt

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