Rust-o-leum vs. Hammerite

[COBALT]

I've recently used a lot of two of the most basic "out-of-the-can" rust prevention coatings. So far here's my opinion:

1. Prep work:

Hammerite. As long as the loose stuff is off you actually should just paint right onto the rust. It's made to bond better that way. Rust-o-leum there's a TON of prep work to do. You have to make sure you have a clean surface, and if possible remove as much rust as possible. That's tough when you have old coils that are covered in rust and grime. Wire brushing will run you out of energy.

2. Ease of application:

Rust-o-leum. I think it's thinner so it was easier to apply provided that I was in a breeze-free room.

3. Consistency:

Hammerite hands down. After shaking it up for 3 minutes it sprayed and coated evenly. Rust-o-leum was not consistent, and the distance from the part had to be varied from 10" to 16" depending on the condition of the can and the paint. Every can of Hammerite sprayed exactly the same, and the paint coated the same. I ended up getting a bad can of Rust-o-leum that somehow got moisture in it, and didn't see until I'd done a complete coat on a control arm. It's going to look like crap up close, but it won't come off.

4. Drying Time:

Rust-o-leum won this one. Hammerite is so thick, and pliable by nature it took FOREVER for a coat to dry. They say if you don't apply the 2nd coat within an hour you have to wait for 48 hours! Screw that.

5. Overall finished look:

Rust-o-leum. Actually depends on the application. On the sway bar I used Hammerite, and that's ok because it was a pitted surface. On the control arms that's a different story. I wanted them to look nice and glossy without that spider-web of silvery fleck.

6. Finish Options:

Again, Rust-o-leum. They had a metalic fleck silver paint that's making my coils look absolutely bad-a$$. A little more work removing rust, but it's worth it.

7. Price:

Rust-o-leum: About $1.50 cheaper per spray can retail.

Therefore, I think you know my conclusion. Ultimately it will come down to personal preference, and most may just decide the powder coater is preferable, but I don't have access to anyone who can coat these parts for me. I also can't justify buying my own just yet.

[dubie]

I used Rustoleum black on my frame when I repainted it. All I did for prep work was put a wire wheel on the grinder, cleaned up the frame and painted right on te bare metal. The adhesion and coverage was great. I put the first coat on in a flat black, then used the gloss black for the finish. It turned out great!!! I also used Rustoleum gloss black on my dash pieces suck as the glovebox door and ashtray. It's a great cost saver and turns out a nice finished product in the end.
I have never used Hammerite so I can't comment on it. But I would definately recommend the rustoleum to anyone.

[Classic Heartbeat]

Just to let you know about Rust-o-leum paints... We used to use both products where I worked and they are not even close when it comes to function and durability. Anything that we painted with Rust-o-leum needed repainted in a years time do to peeling and the surface rusting right under the paint. With Hammerite this never happened. Hammerite is way more durable and provided better rust protection,, HANDS DOWN!! Surfaces never rusted under Hammerite paint either... Granted if a good looking finish is what you are looking for then Rust-o-leum is your product, but if function and durabillity is what you want then you are far better of spending the extra dime and buy Hammerite!! Hammerite has a good asortment of colors now also, at least there is a good asortment here at my local lumber yard... After all, unless you are showing your truck with mirrors under it, then how often do you get to enjoy the finish anyway.... WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

[ebfabman]

WES, when you guys used Rust-o-leum did you use the primer they suggest. I have an old wheel barrow that was real rusty, I used rusty metal formula primer (I think I read it has fish oil in it) let it dry then painted it a beautiful shade of basic black and its been about 5 years now, outside mostly and it still looks good. Maybe I was lucky???

[Classic Heartbeat]

Yes we used their primer. You must remember that the stuff that gets painted in the plant recieves heavy use, after all it is in a comercial environment that runs 24hrs. a day 7 days a weak. It recieves a constant flow of water running over it and also stuff banging into it, brushing against it and etc. However the stuff painted with Hammerite recieved the same abuse and held up way better. It doesn't scratch or scuff as easy nor when it did get scratched to the metal, did it allow rust to creep under the painted surface. We would have used Hammerite exclusivly in the plant but it doesn't come in some of the colors mandated by law for certain applications.... WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com

[78SilveradoSWB]

Just used Hammerlite Black on my sway bars and boy they look great. Very durable finish.

[merlin3]

i will never use Rust-o-leum ever again,i ground my floor pans to bare metal used their primer of two thick brushed on coats,and a coat of their flat black.the floor pans started to rust within weeks and the truck never left the garage.had to spend two days stripping the floor pans again this time i used Dupont self etching primer.around here we found Rust-o-lum promotes rust.

[motornut]

don't know hammerrite but i do use rust-o-leum or "tremclad" up here
most times it gets a wipe with thinner before paint(helps flow)
done quite a bit this way
most recently rolled on the 78s body,79s floor
I don't thin it like some do
it's dosn't stop rust ,it slows it down at best

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Another Hammerite fan here.
I first came across it in a mom & pop hardware store probably 20+ years ago.
At that time it was imported (I think from England IIRC)
I had a antique steel chair that I found submerged in a creek. Absolutely no paint left, just solid rust. I took it home, pressure cleaned it and painted it with Hammerite. I still have that chair on my porch. The rust has never come back. I have had to repaint it several times in the past 20 years just because of fading and a wanted color change, but no returning rust. That stuff is amazing.
At that time, the only finish available was hammered. I guess that's where the name came from. And there were only about half-dozen colors. But, now they're making it here in the US and they offer smooth finish and lots more colors.
Forget the Rust-Oleum. Spend a few bucks extra and get Hammerite.