restoring bolts

[Ackattack]

How do you guys "restore" your bolts. I'm taking stuff apart (grill, fenders, core support, etc) and there are lots of unique bolts that I'd like to re-use. But rather than sand blast, wire brush, I was thinking of other options. I guess buying new ones would be another solution too.

I was thinking a vibratory tumbler would probably due a good job, but I've never used one.

Any other good options?

[earl87gta]

check this out http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

[tclaremont]

Get yourself a Berry Tumbler.

http://www.pinrestore.com/Tumblers.html

[CG]

Get yourself a gallon jug of white vinegar and dump a bunch of your rusty bolts in there. Let it sit for a week or so, maybe give it a shake once in awhile. That stuff cleans up bolts almost like new, but be prepared to coat em with something after you take em out...paint, wd40 etc etc, so they dont rust up on ya.

[tclaremont]

Dipping your bolts in white vinegar might be OK, but I don't recommend it for your nuts.

[crzngmychvy]

Originally Posted by tclaremont

Dipping your bolts in white vinegar might be OK, but I don't recommend it for your nuts.

I agree, don't dip your nuts.

[ChaseDale3and8]

Originally Posted by tclaremont

Get yourself a Berry Tumbler.

http://www.pinrestore.com/Tumblers.html

This is definately the way to go. It'll make them look brand new again! We use the large industrial ones at work and they just can't be beat to get rust off of steel in my opinion. ...Joe

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

After parts are cleaned how are they refinished?

esll.

[earl87gta]

I think I will try the vinager idea. I new there had to be a use for that stuff.

[71 lowrider]

One of my friends uses his body shop paint shaker to clean bolts,nuts and small brackets and hardware. He uses a clean gallon paint can,a couple handfulls of broken tempered auto glass(just wack an old side glass with a hammer and scoop up the chunks of glass) put the parts and the glass chunks in the paint can,put on the lid and put it in the shaker and let it run for a short while.I'm not sure,but maybe 15 minutes?

[Andy4639]

I put a handful of bolts in some vingar Sunday and have been shaking the can ever since. This weekend I will wash them down and spray them off. I plan to paint the heads but what about the threads.

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

There is a company called O.E.M. that sells products to refinish parts and bolts with O.E'M. finishes. These are two products that I've used with success. Quick black turns bolts black and the other is a zinc phosphate solution which gives a grey finish that you see on clamps etc.

esll.

[Spoof]

cool esll...where did you score that?

[Bob Moore]

esll - were can I find that product? Is it a body shop product?

TIA - Bob

[Shane]

after you take them out of the tumbler, drop them into a bowl of USED motor oil ... take them out, wipe them down and use as normal.

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

Bolts and many other metal surfaces need a protective finish to prevent rust. This finish can be paint, or other finishes such as zinc phosphate. black phosphate, chrome etc. "NOT JUST OIL" as handling or weather over time will wear the oil off the metal surface and air our enemy will start the rusting process, not to mention it leaves the bolt with the wrong finish for a correct restoration. After using either of these two products they are soaked in oil but not just any oil. You must use an oil that has the ability to disapate water. AMSOIL is a great product to use. Cosmolene oil is another good product to use as well.

I'll have to look through my literature for a distributer as it's been years since I've ordered any of these products as I have still to use all that I had purchased when I owned my Corvette Restoration shop. We had to do this type of O.E.M finish as chrome shops do not offer these type of plateing sevices.

I have a phone of the distributor I used (# (702) 331-3331) I do not know if it is still in service.

esll.

[Morgsie]

Take them to a place to get them re- zinced/black oxided/anodized/etc. Make sure to make a DETAILED list of what you take there. Take pictures and write out a list. This can also help for reassembly. I also personally put anti-seize or lock-tight on everything I assembled. Nothing like undoing a bolt 5 or 10 years later and still being able to get it off!

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

Originally Posted by Morgsie

Take them to a place to get them re- zinced/black oxided/anodized/etc. Make sure to make a DETAILED list of what you take there. Take pictures and write out a list. This can also help for reassembly. I also personally put anti-seize or lock-tight on everything I assembled. Nothing like undoing a bolt 5 or 10 years later and still being able to get it off!

**********************************************************

Who do you recommend for these services? Where are you located?

esll.

[Shane]

try the used motor oil first before going out and buying expensive snake oil. I'm sure saving a little cash goes a long way ... it does with me.

p.s. it works ... i've done it too many times

[Spoof]

From my research, the ASL Company which provided the Quick Black and Zinc Phosphate is no longer in business. At least that seems to be the case.

[EAST SIDE LOW LIFE]

Originally Posted by Spoof

From my research, the ASL Company which provided the Quick Black and Zinc Phosphate is no longer in business. At least that seems to be the case.

**********************************************************

Ok, I'll see if I can get you the chemical name for what Quick Black is. Quick Black is a trade or retail name.

I'll post it tomorrow.

esll.

[Sequoyah]

Eastwood has a product to color bolts black....I'll have to look for it later.

[Truckstr]

I use a couple of different products.

First thing to do is to degrease them. Any coating won't "stick" to metal that's dirty. I use POR-15 Marine Clean. Use nitrile gloves. That stuff will dry your hands out very badly. Ask me how I know.

Second, I use Eastwood Rust Dissolver. A gallon will last you a while with bolts. I use a glass bowl with cover and make sure that they are fully covered. You'd be surprised at how clean and bright they get. It doesn't take off paint or the factory black oxide coating though - if it's still there. It can be reused but will lose it's de-rusting capability after a few uses. They advertise that it can also be used with an aquarium pump and a homebuilt recirculating system. The idea is to keep the surface wet until the desried results are achieved. I haven't tried that - yet. The soaking method takes about a day with fresh Rust Dissolver. A little longer after a couple of re-uses. I rinse them good after - if I'm going to step three soon. Drying is a must after rinsing if not doing anything. Otherwise, I just let 'em dry with the stuff on 'em. It will ward off rust formation for a while if you do. Rinse 'em and dry 'em before any other coating.

Third, I use POR-15 Metal Ready. It lays down a good zinc oxide coating. Great for a base for top-coating - even if it's not the POR-15 top-coating.

Yeah, it's a tedious process, but it'll last longer and look better than just motor oil.

I've been wanting to try some back oxide restoration coating. I haven't yet. Eastwood has some, but...

Prior to using the above process, I just poked the bolts through holes in a sturdy piece of cardboard and sandblasted 'em. Then I'd top coat 'em.

I'm all about anti-sieze - if you want to ever get 'em out again, that is.

[Thealien]

If you want to do black oxide check the firearms boards. I refinsh firearms and if I want to get e real dark parkerising I black oxide finish it first. It is pretty easy and is the same black coating you see on impact sockets. IIRC I got my chemicals from caswell plating but there are many other places.

[Ackattack]

I tried the vinegar....didn't produce the results I want after 4 days of soaking.