It's all on and I'll never do it again

[pkbinplano]

Don't want to, don't have to and you can't make me. Total front end rebuild. Upper/lower control arm bushings, upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, shocks, brakes, brake lines, bearings and seals, all thats left tomorrow is put rotors and brake shoes on, flush and bleed system and get it alligned. Total cost minus allingnment $780 . NTB wanted $1400 just for upper/lower control arm bushings.

[77-383 Step]

Thats a lot of work. Did it earlier this year. Congratulations.

[Yankeelights]

Way to go man ... should be good for another 30 years!

[killthewabbit]

Never, huh? 30 years from now they're gonna want even more than $1400, you know...

[pkbinplano]

77 step, what color is your ride ? I'll keep an eye out for you

[Prong]

I feel your pain. I've done the 4wd version (tie rods, drag link, U/L Ball joints, Axle U- Joints, leaf spring bushings) twice. Once on one of my current trucks and the second on a previous truck that I owned. It was tedious work but it saved me a lot of $$.

[knightlife]

yeesh...Im gonna have to talk to the wifey if I wanna do anthing like that...gotta have approval ya know? lol

[jermasaurus]

That truck is gonna ride better than when it was new!

Eventually I'm gonna have to do my front end too. I'm sure the results are well worth the work.

[koreric75]

just curious, did you have to do anything with the steering box itself?? Mine has started leaking ps fluid and the steering is not tight like it used to be, alot more play in the steering that i like.

[68GMCCustom]

there's usually an adjustment on top with a lock nut, that you can take some of the slop out. release the locknut and turn the center post slightly to tighten.

[Restrorob]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

release the locknut and turn the center post slightly to tighten.

Pay attention to the above word, If tightened too much the steering wheel will spin in either direction soon as the engine fires.

So, Keep your hands off/away from the steering wheel to prevent broken fingers for the first fire-up after adjustment.

[koreric75]

Originally Posted by Restrorob

Pay attention to the above word, If tightened too much the steering wheel will spin in either direction soon as the engine fires.

So, Keep your hands off/away from the steering wheel to prevent broken fingers for the first fire-up after adjustment.

Thanks for the warning, will try to take some of the slop out, my haynes manual got wet after the heater core leak so i need to get a new one to help on stuff like this...lol.

[C&C Chevy]

Originally Posted by pkbinplano

Don't want to, don't have to and you can't make me. Total front end rebuild. Upper/lower control arm bushings, upper/lower ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, idler arm, pitman arm, shocks, brakes, brake lines, bearings and seals, all thats left tomorrow is put rotors and brake shoes on, flush and bleed system and get it alligned. Total cost minus allingnment $780 .

Don't suppose you took alot of pictures? Have to do this rebuild in the winter some time..

[pkbinplano]

just took it for a drive. Rides like a Caddy again. Kicker is the wheel is straight, and it doesn't pull to one side. Guess I did my measurements correct. Just dropped it off for allignment.

[gchemist]

It's not hard with the right tools.

[pkbinplano]

what special tools did you use that would make things easier ? Maybe a pneumatic chisler

[Restrorob]

Originally Posted by pkbinplano

what special tools did you use that would make things easier ? Maybe a pneumatic chisler

I rebuilt my whole front end also before I decided to go ahead with the body-off.
My special tools were a 6" bench vice, 3/4" drive socket set and a BFH. But being in the repair biz I knew how/what needed to be done.

[streetstar]

Originally Posted by pkbinplano

what special tools did you use that would make things easier ? Maybe a pneumatic chisler

I suppose you mean for the ball joint rivets ---- i drilled out the center of the rivet head on mine and then hit the base of the rivets with an air hamer and chisel bit ---- drilling it means the air chisel has to go through a lot less metal to knock 'em off

I'm definitely not a pro though -- even with the power tools - the job sucked

[pkbinplano]

yup. The ball joint press I rented helped alot, along with a electric impact I bought awhile back. Best investment ever.

[BaddBusa2005]

I am getting ready to do all the same thing, but with some aftermarket lower a-arms and spindles. Let us know how the truck feels compared to how it was

[pkbinplano]

drives like a Caddy again. Ultra quiet over RR tracks.

[Ivan D.]

I rebuilt the front end of my Lincoln last summer, using all ultra-heavy-duty DANA parts from NAPA - ran me a bit under $500, but I had a serious discount at the local store. Now I wanna rebuild the truck too, but I got tuition to pay and not enough time to fiddle with rusty hardware and other joys of that sort - I already have all new brakes and hoses and lines tho, so maybe I'll just get a set of control arms off a junker truck or somethnig and rebuild them on my free time and then just swap them in over an evening after work...