New cam

[chev74]

I have a 350, bored .60 over, and it has a little stronger cam than stock (enginetech brand if i remember correctly), but i would like to put a little bit hotter one in. What cam(s) do you guys reccommend? the valve springs are a little stiffer and what not. Just want some more power.

And if i remember correctly, cant you install it by just removing the radiator and everything off the front and sliding/twisting it in? Basically i mean without opening up my top end.

I can probably find the current specs on my cam if you guys would like them

[tcs81281]

you can go to the compcams website. they have a new free software program you can download. it tells you the best cam for you motor/vehicle.just put in your info like cubic inches,compression,valve size ect... its a cool program to messaround with and see hp and torque numbers by changing cams.

[ChevLoRay]

I'd like one of the Thump'r cams that Cam Dynamics offers, I believe. They're supposed to offer the drive-in thump that we all crave, but are supposed to be drive-friendly, offering decent vacuum for our day-to-day needs.

[72BLUZ]

You Will Have To Remove The Valve Covers, Rockers And Push Tubes. Dissasemble The Front Of The Engine. And Pull The Radiator And Grill. You Will Have To Pull The Intake To Get The Lifters Out As Well. As Far As Your Question Goes. You Will Have To Dissasemble The Top Of The Engine

[Billla]

Cam choice really depends on what your heads are capable of - can you share more detail on your carb, intake, heads and exhaust? And yes - having your existing cam card would help

72BLUZ had the overall process down; a couple of notes on order:

- Drain coolant
- Remove valve covers
- Loosen and turn rockers, remove pushrods
- Remove distributor, carb and intake.
- Remove lifters. New cam means new lifters - always - if flat-tappet
- Strip front of engine; pullies, water pump, balancer, timing cover. Note that you'll need to drop the front of the pan to get the timing cover off.
- Remove radiator and grill...the center grill support will need to come off as well.
- Remove fuel pump and fuel pump pushrod
- Remove cam timing gear, slip off chain, then reinstall gear with one bolt to provide leverage to CAREFULLY pull out the cam.

Installation is the reverse of removal - note that you'll need to "goober" the front cover/oil pan seal with RTV to get a good seal.

[chev74]

im still looking for the box my cam came in, but intake is an edelbrock performer, carb is holley 750 (with downsized jets), exhaust is a pair of stainless shorty headers, running to sidepipes, no cats. Ill have to get the other info before we can tell, but i did find that free program from Comp Cams

[airdale94]

Yeah, you don't want to drop a lifter into the bottom end of your engine.

[fnoblitt]

i have a lunati vodoo cam in my engine, love it ! .

[67shortie]

Originally Posted by fnoblitt

i have a lunati vodoo cam in my engine, love it ! .

I second that, this will be my cam of choice for my 355 build. The 268 will work great, but has a slight lope at idle if that's not a concern of yours.

[LONGHAIR]

You don't have to remove the fuel pump push rod or the cover plate, just the pump itself. The rod will drop far enough to get the cam out. Back in is another story........but there is an entire write-up here somewhere FAQ maybe?

[chevy72blu]

You dont need to remove the grille... The rad will give you enough space.

I loved the Comp 272 in my 355. Nice all around performer with a good sounding lope and enough vaccum for PB

[89 crew]

personally I love the old 60's vette 327 375 hp cam. throw away the solid lifters and add in the hyd. and a 60 lb pump. you can get 6k out of a stock 350 without much money. If you put this in a 400 it is quite fun! I really enjoyed smoking cars in a 1 ton 12 passenger van with it!

[LONGHAIR]

personally I love the old 60's vette 327 375 hp cam. throw away the solid lifters and add in the hyd. and a 60 lb pump. you can get 6k out of a stock 350 without much money. If you put this in a 400 it is quite fun! I really enjoyed smoking cars in a 1 ton 12 passenger van with it!

There are a couple of flaws in this theory.
First, is strictly age... over 40 year old cam technology is just that...old

Second, that 327/375 made it's power from compression and octane in combination with that cam. Today you aren't going to get by with that as easily.

Third, As you increase cubic inches, you cut the effectiveness of the cam. More CID requires more cam to be equal.

Fourth, Solid cams have slower ramps, to take-up the valve lash, that hydraulic lifters do not need. It's not that they won't work, but you are "giving away" some potential in the profile that you wouldn't have to, if the cam were designed for hydraulic lifters in the first place.

Potentially Fifth, Valve springs have more to do with max RPM ability than the cam does. You need the right springs for any cam.
What is a "60 lb. pump"?