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#1 |
SLICER AND DICIER
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Quuen Creek
Posts: 1,383
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Here is th pics as promised, sorry it has been a while back. Don't remember who requested them. Anyway here it is, It's ALOT OF WORK, but the payoff is deffinatly worth it. The lines all look sooooooooo much smoother now without those drip rails sticking out 1/4 to 1/2".
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01 Tahoe 22's 2/4 drop and tv's ![]() 68 chevy money pit 51 chevy belair 95 Honda 900RR 05 GMC Siearra (company truck) |
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#2 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 5,817
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Looks like some good results, but I'm just not crazy about shaved drip rails. To me they do a good job adding some structure to the cab. Kind of makes it look a little more tough or something...just me.
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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. |
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#3 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: West Fork, Arkansas - Razorback Country
Posts: 1,826
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Smooth68's Web Site WTB 64-66 project or frame/cab, SWB or LWB...I have the fever! Whatcha got?? '68 Short Step - Shaved Body, Soon Bagged - SOLD Driver-2004 GMC Z-71 Ext-cab |
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#4 | |
Seņor Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
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Quote:
Otherwise, the truck is looking good. I'm interested to see how the bed-to-cab match up is going to look once NSANE68's truck is done. Kenneth
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Robertsdale, AL, USA
Posts: 77
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How do you remove the drip rails?
I mean, do you start with a recipsaw and cut the large majority of the rail off, then use a side grinder to remove what's left?
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Looking for '67 to replace the '68 I sold. Robertsdale, AL |
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#6 | |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: West Fork, Arkansas - Razorback Country
Posts: 1,826
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Quote:
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Smooth68's Web Site WTB 64-66 project or frame/cab, SWB or LWB...I have the fever! Whatcha got?? '68 Short Step - Shaved Body, Soon Bagged - SOLD Driver-2004 GMC Z-71 Ext-cab |
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#7 |
SLICER AND DICIER
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Quuen Creek
Posts: 1,383
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Cyco Path, The drips are done in small portions at a time 3-6" at a time. Just like you said sawzall, grind, and tack, grind again and so on. ALWAYS keep the metal cool to prevent warping. Be careful at the corners, there is actually 3 portions of the roof all comming together there.
On the bed, I shaved all the lines I thought didn't line up to help it flow. I don't know who's pic this is but I used it as a demo. I shaved everywhere there is an X, or am in the process of shaving it. After fully shaved it should flow very well. ![]() ![]()
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01 Tahoe 22's 2/4 drop and tv's ![]() 68 chevy money pit 51 chevy belair 95 Honda 900RR 05 GMC Siearra (company truck) |
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#8 | |
Seņor Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
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Quote:
Kenneth
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#9 |
PROJECT LO-LYF
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: MO.
Posts: 285
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Your truck is definately looking tough NSANE! Personally I do not care for the new beds on these trucks but just my O!!
Those 20's are looking sweet! I'm not sure if I want 18's all the way around or 18's in the front and dubs in the back! What color are you going to paint that thing? Justin
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FOUNDING MEMBER OF THE "O-SH*T, THAT TRUCK IS LOW" CLUB PROJECT: LO-LYF Bagged 68 Shorty home.att.net/~justin.lewis |
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#10 |
drag it like you stole it
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 542
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what did you fill those lines on the bed with? i know that is a stress point for those fiberglass bed sides. seems like it would crack sooner or later. just like it will when you mold the roll pan. i have the drip rails shaved on my '67. i wouldnt have it any other way. they are hideous.
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negative camber //LA\\ |
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#11 |
SLICER AND DICIER
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Quuen Creek
Posts: 1,383
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I used that 2 part patch weld. Kinda like an epoxy weld. Then long strand KITTY HAIR. That stuff sets up like a rock. Long fiber reinforced filler.
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01 Tahoe 22's 2/4 drop and tv's ![]() 68 chevy money pit 51 chevy belair 95 Honda 900RR 05 GMC Siearra (company truck) |
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#12 |
Car Knocker
Join Date: May 2001
Location: jefferson,arkansas
Posts: 664
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Man, I'm glad you guy brought this up. The past two days I have been working on my bed. Fixing what lokit said, cracks in the molded roll pan. The first time I used mat and resin. Cracked out. Going back and v-eeing out deep and using kitty hair. Will this bust out too? Any comments welcome.
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68 c-10,91 sportside bed,350 .030 over,4 bolt,10-1 comp,2.05 intake/1.94 exhaust,1.6 Harland Sharp roller rockers,edelbrock rpm cam and intake w/750 carb, 700r4, 3.73 gears,Jacabbs Electronic Igntion w/Accel HEI distributer and super coil. ZR-1 roll pan, filled tailights. Blazer tank. Hidden hitch. 2 1/2" Flowmaster 40's. Parts bought but not installed>> ford 9" posi with disc. CCP front and rear lowering kit 4/5. Cab corners,foor boards,rockers, cab braces, Phatom grill, Painless wiring kit. |
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#13 |
So Many Ideas, So Little Money
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Marshalltown, IA
Posts: 1,610
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whose yellow truck is that? anyone know???? If I had money I would build a 67-72 step box that was built in conparison to the 88-98steps. how part it like a fleet...... but I'm poor, anyone wanna give me money to try?
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72 Blazer 3/4 ton running gear 4.10s NP205/TH350 350 4in lift half doors 71 C10 with 454 99 S-10 5.1L SBC 700R4 09 Malibu ![]() Marshalltown, Iowa |
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#14 |
aka Crusher, Crushergmc
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,834
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NSANE!! very nice work. Have you thought about changing the wheel openings to match? You definetly have the talent. Personally, I like the rounded 67-72 openings rather than the square late model.
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"KEEP IT DOWN!" 70 Jimmy 454 2wd 56 GMC Big Window "It's funny till someone gets hurt, then it's freakin' hilarious" |
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