Q: Cold AND heat-soaked start problems

[jimmyj]

When it's cold out or even when it's not and it's just been a while since I've started it up, I need to hit the gas HARD, over and over, right after I start it up or it will die. And sometimes, no matter how much I gas it, it dies after a few seconds, requiring me to turn the key again. Usually, though, if I gas it enough, it won't die and I'm fine. But it's annoying and I can only imagine how much I spend on gas just starting it up everyday. Also ...

Once my truck fires up and stays fired up, it runs like a top--it doesn't stall out randomly, and will run for hours. But if it runs for too long and I turn it off, it's hard to get it to start again; I sometimes have to wait thirty minutes or so before it will start up (it won't even turn over--just clicks every time until it's been long enough, and then it starts up like there was never a problem in the first place).



Any suggestions for my (1) heat-soaked and (2) cold start problems?

Thanks.

[PanelDeland]

The heat soak could probably be solved by the Ford solenoid upgrade.There should be a FAQ on that.The cold start problem seems more like afuel problem.I would guess your carb is letting fuel run back or maybe the float level is off.It's also possible the fuel pump is weak.Maybe someone else has another idea.

[jimmyj]

Thanks for your response. As far as the carb is concerned, I've considered taking it out, blowing it up and cleaning it out. Is that a good idea generally, and if you've done it before, do you have any idea how long that would take?

[Chevyholic]

I went with the Ford solenoid upgrade and it was worth the very little money and time that went into it. For cold start issue what carb are you running? Do you have a fuel filter?

Could be a lot of things, but I would start with fuel/fuel delivery. I had a similar cold start problem on a brand new Holley carb that ended up being just a bad cast. Some leftover burrs from the casting job was causing the float to sit open all the time. Also, if there's junk in the carb from the tank it will settle after you're done driving and "blow" out when you're at speed making it seem like normal driving is fine, but only start up is affected.

[Wootdog]

As far as it not starting after it has run awhile. Go to the help section at your auto parts dealer. They have a starter solenoid cover that you can use. Less than five bucks.
Kerry

[jimmyj]

Originally Posted by Chevyholic

I went with the Ford solenoid upgrade and it was worth the very little money and time that went into it. For cold start issue what carb are you running? Do you have a fuel filter?

Could be a lot of things, but I would start with fuel/fuel delivery. I had a similar cold start problem on a brand new Holley carb that ended up being just a bad cast. Some leftover burrs from the casting job was causing the float to sit open all the time. Also, if there's junk in the carb from the tank it will settle after you're done driving and "blow" out when you're at speed making it seem like normal driving is fine, but only start up is affected.

I don't know what you mean by "what kind" of carb I'm running, but here's what I do know: it's a four-barrel, and as far as I can tell, it's been on the truck for a while.

As far as your second paragraph: are you suggesting I clean out the carb and/or the tank, or that I get a new carb? How can I tell if my carb needs outright replacement or just a wash?

[jimmyj]

Originally Posted by Wootdog

As far as it not starting after it has run awhile. Go to the help section at your auto parts dealer. They have a starter solenoid cover that you can use. Less than five bucks.
Kerry

Thanks. I'll try that. I think my starter is new, but perhaps upgrading to the Ford Chevyholic suggested and getting a shield will do the trick.

[cdowns]

i'd start by changing the fuel filter(its in the fuel inlet of the carb) then i'd do new air filter new properly gapped plugs then if you still have points i'd set the dwell its all normal routine maintenance

[Chevyholic]

Originally Posted by jimmyj

I don't know what you mean by "what kind" of carb I'm running, but here's what I do know: it's a four-barrel, and as far as I can tell, it's been on the truck for a while.

As far as your second paragraph: are you suggesting I clean out the carb and/or the tank, or that I get a new carb? How can I tell if my carb needs outright replacement or just a wash?

I guess I was getting at (poorly so) is if it was an original Rochester, or perhaps a newer Edelbrock/Holley/etc. I don't know how long you've had the truck, so there's a good chance that it has been a while since the carb has been rebuilt. Problem with cleaning is that to get to all of the nooks/crannies you need to take it apart and will need to replace the seals, so may as well rebuild anyway. Asked about the filter because most tanks have a bunch of crud in them and you don't want that reaching the carb, so you'll want to filter that out.

Sorry if my previous post was confusing and this one for that matter. I just had knee surgery and am hopped up on Vicodin.

[jimmyj]

Originally Posted by Chevyholic

I guess I was getting at (poorly so) is if it was an original Rochester, or perhaps a newer Edelbrock/Holley/etc. I don't know how long you've had the truck, so there's a good chance that it has been a while since the carb has been rebuilt. Problem with cleaning is that to get to all of the nooks/crannies you need to take it apart and will need to replace the seals, so may as well rebuild anyway. Asked about the filter because most tanks have a bunch of crud in them and you don't want that reaching the carb, so you'll want to filter that out.

Sorry if my previous post was confusing and this one for that matter. I just had knee surgery and am hopped up on Vicodin.

Thanks for your clarification, and I hope the recovery goes smoothly for you.

I've had the truck for a year, but I'm guessing the carb has been on it for a while--a buddy of mine who knows old trucks well suggested that the carb could use an overhaul, but that was just by glancing at it.

So--forgive me, I'm totally new to this stuff--what do you mean by "rebuild"? Is that code for "buy a new one"? I'm not made of money, but it is a little less valuable to me than my time, so I'd prefer to buy a new carb (any suggestions) to rebuilding, unless I'm exaggerating how difficult it is. I don't mind spending an entire Saturday to rebuild one, if that's what I'm looking at.

[Wootdog]

By rebuilding he was talking about getting a kit that has all the gaskets, floats, needle valves, etc. You would disassemble the whole thing. Then clean all the components you will reuse with Carbeurator cleaner. Then reassemble it with the parts you bought. You will have to adjust various things like the idle and mixture settings.Some carbs are easier to work on than others.
Kerry

[jimmyj]

Originally Posted by Wootdog

By rebuilding he was talking about getting a kit that has all the gaskets, floats, needle valves, etc. You would disassemble the whole thing. Then clean all the components you will reuse with Carbeurator cleaner. Then reassemble it with the parts you bought. You will have to adjust various things like the idle and mixture settings.Some carbs are easier to work on than others.
Kerry

Ah, I see. That's awesome. I think I'll do that. So--looking under the hood and at my carb ... how do I know if what I'm looking at is one of the easy ones or one of the hard ones? And by "easy" and "hard," how many hours spent are we talking about here? How long would an average carb rebuild, performed by a basically smart dude who's never done it before but who is generally good at this kind of thing???

[haysonj]

Originally Posted by jimmyj

Thanks for your clarification, and I hope the recovery goes smoothly for you.

I've had the truck for a year, but I'm guessing the carb has been on it for a while--a buddy of mine who knows old trucks well suggested that the carb could use an overhaul, but that was just by glancing at it.

So--forgive me, I'm totally new to this stuff--what do you mean by "rebuild"? Is that code for "buy a new one"? I'm not made of money, but it is a little less valuable to me than my time, so I'd prefer to buy a new carb (any suggestions) to rebuilding, unless I'm exaggerating how difficult it is. I don't mind spending an entire Saturday to rebuild one, if that's what I'm looking at.

If you have never rebuilt a carb I would not recommend doing it there are way to many adjustments for a novice and all the parts should be soaked and blown out with an air compressor. Now back to your problem it could be as simple as a choke adjustment and a tune up. If you want a new carb Edlebrock makes a decent replacement. The starter problem usually just requires a solinoid replacement and a heat shield to protect it.

[cdowns]

everybody is having you jump on the carb replace rebuild bandwagon without a thought of the simple cheap routine things to check for proper maintenance and tuning// GOOD LUCK

[Shyguy]

I was having problems with my C-10 that has a Q-jet not staying running after cold starting.

I adjusted the choke and it stays running after starting at a fast idle until it warms up some. Then it runs great.

I also had a problem a long time ago with a car not turning over when warm, after checking it over I found that the battery was bad.

Hope this helps.

Danny - Southeast Missouri