My attempt at door repair

[Jim_PA]

Well, it's make it or break it. Hopefully I'll come out of this with a good door, and a welder, and some other new tools, but I guess if I have to scrap the door I still win. The inner lower door patch piece doesn't quite look like what I have (the lines, not the lack of rust...), so I'm going to try to preserve what little is left down there to keep things looking right.

Here's my progress. Armed with all my new toys I took the plunge I was afraid to take. Unfortunately, I think the easy part is over. I think this is a pretty typical looking rust belt door. I've seen better and much worse, actually...


















Ok, time to tack on the new pice, and we're all done!

[special-K]

Jim,you`re a brave man.Lookin` good.Is that laid-over or will it be "flanged"(flush)?
I guess with a door you can still get at the back to rust proof.But,I just learned about a paint the won`t bern for coating the back side of repairs before welding shut.It`s prolly not new at all,just new to me.

[Jim_PA]

I was going to butt weld it. I still need to take 1/4" or so off the new piece.

I bought some POR-15 type stuff a while back when I did my rear. I plan on going over everything I can get to on the inside with that.

How do you keep the old skin and new skin flat when butting them together? Maybe I should lap it?

[special-K]

I`ve alwats used a flanger and that`s a flush lap.It not only makes the panels flush w/o butting,but the step-flange stiffens the door panel.

[rod86]

well done to get this far. ti would flange and lap the skin but if you want to butweld then to keep the skins flat while weldin you have to keep the metal cool, dont let it heat up too much and tack weld evry 20mm / 1inch, then then go back an tack in between the tacks untill its all done . if it heats up too much then it starts warping an is a pain to fix.

does that skin sectino come with the inner attached? looks like it in the last pic.

[Jim_PA]

Originally Posted by rod86

well done to get this far. ti would flange and lap the skin but if you want to butweld then to keep the skins flat while weldin you have to keep the metal cool, dont let it heat up too much and tack weld evry 20mm / 1inch, then then go back an tack in between the tacks untill its all done . if it heats up too much then it starts warping an is a pain to fix.

does that skin sectino come with the inner attached? looks like it in the last pic.

What I was referring to, is how do I get the front surface of the new piece up to flush with the existing piece? Just laying it up there and eyeballing, it's not going to just sit there flush for me so I can weld it

I wish it came as one piece! -- I'll have to look into a flanger, but I'm still leaning towards butting this one. Seems like it would be easier to make things fit right with a butt weld???

[Ace in the hole]

looking good, I may be attempting this soon too. Keep us posted.

[rod86]

yea, it takes time and practice, you can just hold the metal level with your hand or a hammer handle pushing gently til they are level then tacking, vise grips at each end will stop it sliding away too, not too tight but or it will dent the metal. if the faces to be butted together arnt flush with each other then you will have to grind the un even edge till they do - less gaps to fill.
buttwelding has its advantages as does flanging an lap welding, i have flanged skins then spotwelded the 2 halves on the lap, was so much easyer - this works fine as long as it gets sealed and treated properly on the back and front where the join is.

[Jim_PA]

Originally Posted by rod86

yea, it takes time and practice, you can just hold the metal level with your hand or a hammer handle pushing gently til they are level then tacking, vise grips at each end will stop it sliding away too, not too tight but or it will dent the metal. if the faces to be butted together arnt flush with each other then you will have to grind the un even edge till they do - less gaps to fill.
buttwelding has its advantages as does flanging an lap welding, i have flanged skins then spotwelded the 2 halves on the lap, was so much easyer - this works fine as long as it gets sealed and treated properly on the back and front where the join is.

Yeah, I guess I can get in from the back.... Kind of a dumb question on my end! Thanks!

[rod86]

no worries, i like helping people with the things im good at
good luck

[greasy68]

Either way you decide to weld it keep posting pics. Do you have much experience welding? I am a begginer and this seems a bit hairy to me right now.

[my67chevytruck]

They also sell sheetmetal clamps which will hold the metal flush while you weld. I bought some from harbor freight. You can also use welding magnets to hold the panel in place while you tack weld a few spots. Good Luck

[glimmertwin01]

Nice job I have to attempt the same thing myself as i am having no luck finding good doors of my 67 project yet... that door looks like some of the better WNY doors... U do have a set of Balls..I need to borrow them. I plan of doing all the work on mine myself if possible... The worst thing is IF i f them up... I can always score some repops if Goodmark makes em
keep us posted

[Jim_PA]

Originally Posted by greasy68

Either way you decide to weld it keep posting pics. Do you have much experience welding? I am a begginer and this seems a bit hairy to me right now.

I took a welding class in high school about 12 years ago, I plan on taking the piece I cut out, cut it up, and practice tacking that back together before trying on the real thing.

[Jim_PA]

Originally Posted by my67chevytruck

They also sell sheetmetal clamps which will hold the metal flush while you weld. I bought some from harbor freight. You can also use welding magnets to hold the panel in place while you tack weld a few spots. Good Luck

I'll have to look for those next time I'm there -- Thanks

[Jim_PA]

Originally Posted by glimmertwin01

Nice job I have to attempt the same thing myself as i am having no luck finding good doors of my 67 project yet... that door looks like some of the better WNY doors... U do have a set of Balls..I need to borrow them. I plan of doing all the work on mine myself if possible... The worst thing is IF i f them up... I can always score some repops if Goodmark makes em
keep us posted

It took a few beers to gather the courage to unbolt it from the hinges but after I pulled the door off, it was full speed ahead... My doors would drop about 1/2" after I opened them, so I'll re-brass and re-pin the hinges while I'm in there.

I am where you are at with finding doors, so this will either turn out great, or I'll toss it, and buy the $250 repro. I've been wanting to get a welder and the patches were only $50, so it seemed like the right thing to do.

Next step is drawing around the rotted inner door, and figuring out what I can save, then cut all that out.

[glimmertwin01]

Good Luck... the worst thing we or I can do is screw up a $50 junk yard door.... even if it isnt show quality Ill probably still use it. I just want rot free all metal truck using as many original parts as possible
since when im done with project 67 k20 i wanna use it as it was intended... to have fun off road.... I dont want a trailer queen...

[Jim_PA]

Ok, more pics. I cut out the old inner section, and started shaping the patch (there's a lot more work to be done on the existing door, and the patch...). I imagine most people would probably cut out more (actually, most people would have probably thrown this door in the trash!), but due to the design of the new inner lower section, I'd rather use as little of this piece as possible. I really don't think it would look right at all if I were to just hack the entire bottom off and use the whole new patch. Hopefully, a wire wheel and some POR 15 will keep the rust from spreading once it's all back together.

I think I already got a little too close with my one cut, but I imagine I can tack a small piece behind, and fill in on the outside? Probably a good thing I quit when I did.

I have close to 5 hours in this, but 4 of those hours were spent scratching my head, measuring, marking, re-measuring, re-marking, etc. I think I'm going to be able to pull this off. Feel free to comment good, or bad. My feelings won't be hurt, honestly

[Jim_PA]

Oh, and I forgot to mention... DANG... these patch panels are hard! Seems like they are 5 times as hard to cut than the original metal. I used half a cut-off disk just cutting out the big section of the inner door bottom.

Overall, the lower skin seems like a great piece. Not as thick but much tougher metal. The inner bottom leaves much to be desired. Both of these are triplus if that makes a difference.

[tommypic]

Looking good keep us posted
wouldnt it been easier to put on whole panel instead of putting in bottom patch . I got one to do and I was looking at all ways too . Full Outer Door Skin 55.95 , Lower Door Skin 16.50 or Complete Door Shell 265.00 . I know cost wise full is more $$$ . I am thinking full outer is going to be faster but dont know. when I use to do body work yrs ago parts were cheaper if parts was real bad just r & r it . I got a friend that runs a body shop and they replace more panels than I did . He was replacing a 1/4 panel in a Yukon that I would have fixed , but thats me .

just keep up the good work aint no body work easy

[Jim_PA]

Originally Posted by tommypic

Looking good keep us posted
wouldnt it been easier to put on whole panel instead of putting in bottom patch . I got one to do and I was looking at all ways too . Full Outer Door Skin 55.95 , Lower Door Skin 16.50 or Complete Door Shell 265.00 . I know cost wise full is more $$$ . I am thinking full outer is going to be faster but dont know. when I use to do body work yrs ago parts were cheaper if parts was real bad just r & r it . I got a friend that runs a body shop and they replace more panels than I did . He was replacing a 1/4 panel in a Yukon that I would have fixed , but thats me .

just keep up the good work aint no body work easy

Yeah, I don't know if the full is easier or not, there's a few how-to's' on that here.

[arkracing]

#1. I wouldn't flange the skin. Mainly because if you warp it when you are welding it - it is a PITA to try to hammer back into shape.

#2. Try to get the skin gap as tight as possible without overlaping. It will be easier to weld. The little holder things from HarborFright are cool, but I think they leave too wide of a gap. Make sure you grind both the front and back sides of both skins.

#3. Have someone hold the skin even with the original door skin in the center and just tack it - don't weld 1" or anything. Then go to the outer edges, then split them. Just a small tack - like a "flat pea"

#4. Once you're satisfied that everything lines up good (I would put it back on the truck and check the fitment of the skin to the rocker etc) then you can continue welding it up.

#5. Continue the "flat pea" welds - it is easier to stack them on one another - ie: weld abould 1/2" - 3/4" @ a time with little short bursts. Each time you stop welding cut the end of the wire and get rid of that ball that forms on the wire.

#6. Keep an air hose handy with an air chuck. Cool you welds when you are done - you don't have to go crazy. Let them stop glowing then hit them with the air for a few seconds.

#7. If the metal starts to "sink" or looks like it is headed down hill when you are welding STOP!!! get out the hammer and dolly and knock it back into shape. Then go onto a differant spot. It the metal starts to "Raise" or lifting - try and cool it a little more with the air and see if that brings it back down. If not, then you'll have to hammer and dolly it out. Don't wait till you're done welding the skin all the way across if something goes wrong - fix it then, otherwise you'll be chasing your tail trying to work it with the hammer and dolly.

#8. Take your time! Don't be impatient. If you burn through STOP and go to a differant spot.

Biggest thing is to take your time. You'll be fine butt welding it.

Here is a picture of a Door Skin that I made and installed on my '33 Ford P/U a few months ago. Its tough to tell from the photos, but I welded it about 1/2" below that "body line"

[tommypic]

has anyone used that clay like stuff for welding that disapates the heat or something ?

[Jim_PA]

Thanks for the tips! That door looks great--

[Ilike 72"s]

Hey arkracing. That was great advice. I'm a pipeline welder by trade, and your advice is right on. Take it slow and fix screwups before
moving on. DENNIS