Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
10-26-2002, 10:43 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Woodstock, GA USA
Posts: 300
|
Front coils are being a pain
Trying to put standard coils in my front suspension and I;m having atough time getting them to set in the upper control arm correctly. I used a spring compressor but it still doens't sit right. Any advice?
__________________
Bill Durham http://home.attbi.com/~bulldurham 72 Cheyenne Restoration in progress Currently: frame sand blasted and powdercoated, Inline Tube brake and fuel lines, Blazer tank in rear, Holley Red electronic fuel pump, Eaton posi with 3.42 gears, 2 1/2" drop front spindles, 4" drop rear springs with adjustable panhard bar, KYB shocks, ZZ 502/502 GM Performance crate engine, Zoops brackets and pulleys, Vintage Air, dual electric fans, Ram Air II hood and late model sport side bed. |
10-26-2002, 11:07 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Des Moines WA. (Kent, area)
Posts: 668
|
Spring help
I just did mine and what you need to do is put the top of the spring into the top pocket. The top of the spring should just be centered in the top pocket. Then swing the lower a-arm and up to meet the bottom of the spring and line the bottom of the coil to the indentation in the bottom a-arm. Holding everything in place then put a floor jack under the lower a-arm and slowly raise the a-arm the spring should settle in and compress it then you can attach the spindle.
__________________
70 chev c10 swb fleet 72 grill, sb 400, 2/4 drop. 68 chev c10 swb fleet Early classic 4/6 drop with 4wheel disc brakes 9"rear 67-8 buckets tilt and A/C Classic GM Truck Club of Washington . |
10-27-2002, 12:18 AM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 151
|
I agree with crazy4chevs. Thats the way I always do mine.
Good luck,
__________________
FGC |
10-27-2002, 05:30 AM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Woodstock, GA USA
Posts: 300
|
I don't have enough weight to do it that way. All I have is a frame.
__________________
Bill Durham http://home.attbi.com/~bulldurham 72 Cheyenne Restoration in progress Currently: frame sand blasted and powdercoated, Inline Tube brake and fuel lines, Blazer tank in rear, Holley Red electronic fuel pump, Eaton posi with 3.42 gears, 2 1/2" drop front spindles, 4" drop rear springs with adjustable panhard bar, KYB shocks, ZZ 502/502 GM Performance crate engine, Zoops brackets and pulleys, Vintage Air, dual electric fans, Ram Air II hood and late model sport side bed. |
10-27-2002, 09:19 AM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 500
|
If you can get the spindle nuts started, compress it SLIGHTLY (maybe 1/2" or so). With both nuts on the spindles, and possibly a safety chain through it, hit it with a rubber mallet to get it centered. I did my lowered springs this way, and they popped right into place. The problem is tha the pockets aren't aligned until the upper and lower control arms come closer together. I tried several times and this is the only way I could make it work. Mine were 1" lowered, so I'm not sure how well it will work on yours.
__________________
69 SWB LT1/4L60E www.classicplace.com |
10-27-2002, 03:16 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Arizona
Posts: 758
|
My dad had that problem on his 50 chevy, so he just had three of us stand on the frame. Just ask a bunch of friends or neighbors to come over for ten minutes. Good luck
Low68
__________________
Build Thread |
10-27-2002, 09:08 PM | #7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Darrington, Washington
Posts: 3,963
|
They should settle once you get weight up their,it may sit high or funky until then.if you got ligned up right and brought control arm upto it,tighten down spindle,if any problems try tapping on them when in place maybe they need to move slightly,but id guess do to lack of weight is your problem,set a bunch of weight up their or have a few guys jump up and down on your frame.you should be good to go.
|
10-28-2002, 12:00 AM | #8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Seattle, WA, USA
Posts: 5,817
|
Yeah, you need weight. Go get 3-4 bags of quick-crete from the Home Depot, and put them on your x-member. Hell, you can always use 3-4 bags of quick-crete! lol
...and don't use the spring compressor. Do as others are telling you. Get that top of the spring in first (you can feel around inside the pocket to feel where it should seat). Get the control arm up and the thing together with your left hand, and with your right scoot the floor jack under the lower ball joint, and pump the handle until you have the control arm secure with the jack. Then just move around and slowly jack up the control arm until the stud of the lower ball joint goes into the spindle. You didn't put that grease fitting in the lower ball joint yet, right? If so, you're going to have to either take it out, or make a spacer with a hole in it to accomodate that grease fitting.
__________________
'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA. |
10-28-2002, 06:49 AM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Woodstock, GA USA
Posts: 300
|
Thanks for the help.
I got them in last night. Finally after throwing some major weight on the frame.
__________________
Bill Durham http://home.attbi.com/~bulldurham 72 Cheyenne Restoration in progress Currently: frame sand blasted and powdercoated, Inline Tube brake and fuel lines, Blazer tank in rear, Holley Red electronic fuel pump, Eaton posi with 3.42 gears, 2 1/2" drop front spindles, 4" drop rear springs with adjustable panhard bar, KYB shocks, ZZ 502/502 GM Performance crate engine, Zoops brackets and pulleys, Vintage Air, dual electric fans, Ram Air II hood and late model sport side bed. |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|