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#1 |
huh?
![]() Join Date: May 2000
Location: Washington, Illinois
Posts: 5,692
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I've been wondering, I know epoxy will hold up a lot better. Is there any special prep-work involved in spraying epoxy primer onto the clip of my 67? What are the fair prices? How much would I need to do the complete front clip and doors? This place doesn't seem too bad on pricing, but I don't know: http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/epoxy_primer.htm
Are there any other epoxy paint vendors that I should know about? Any ideas/comments are appreciated. Thanks TJ ------------------ 68 C10 Short Step (Christine), 406 SB, TH350, 3.73's, currently going on the back burner. New to my fleet, 67 C10 Panel (1 of 3827) (Nicknamed the laggin wagon, thanks to Josh, the webmaster), 292, p/s, speed, 86,000 orig. miles Gridley, IL bigbad406@msn.com I'm on MSN messenger under that address if you would like to add me...... Also on AOL IM under the nick tommy85z My Personal Homepage The 67-72 gallery on MSN, feel free to submit your pics! A pass-time of mine is storm spotting, click here to see Gridley IL's Emergency Services Homepage. AOL SN- Tommy85z
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Someday when I'm lonely, Wishing you weren't so far away, Then I will remember Things we said today. RIP El Jay |
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#2 |
huh?
![]() Join Date: May 2000
Location: Washington, Illinois
Posts: 5,692
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Epoxy Primer ( self - etching )Pricing
Description SKU # Price White quart 6600-4 $15.63 White gallon 6600-1 $46.88 Gray quart 6610-4 $15.63 Gray gallon 6610-1 $46.88 Black quart 6620-4 $15.63 Black gallon 6620-1 $46.88 Description SKU # Price Epoxy Activator quart ( w/aluminum etch ) 6700-4 $15.63 Epoxy Activator gallon ( w/aluminum etch ) 6700-1 $46.88 I apparently need an activator to go along with it.....do those prices seem to be fair? I think the panel would look good in white. TJ
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Someday when I'm lonely, Wishing you weren't so far away, Then I will remember Things we said today. RIP El Jay |
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#3 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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If memory serves, the epoxy primer is water proof and will not caus rust like normal enamel primer will. It is also called sealer. Real good stuff, but does not have the build up quality of the enamel.
(I haven't touched a paint gun in 10 years...so I may be confuuuzed here) ------------------ '69 G.M.C. 350/350. Trying to clean up the left over damage from the Dope-Smokin-Old-Man I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it. FINALLY got the HORNIAC...a '70 one ton Longhorn with a Pontiac 350/350 and lots of 'personality'. Check out The Longhorn Webite. If you need a pic posted, E-mail me at longhornmail@yahoo.com Andy, in Columbus Ohio |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Geneva, FL USA
Posts: 64
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For epoxy primer, that's a nice cheap price. PPG makes DP40LF (lead free) which is gray-green, they also make a couple of other colors in the DP series. It also requires activator. Theirs is about $100/gallon for the epoxy alone.
It is true that epoxies adhere very well to bare metal, it is true that they are moisture resistant, and it is also true that they don't have very good filling qualities. But, you can use epoxy on bare metal then use urethane or even lacquer primer for fill. For nice jobs, use urethane which is more stable. Lacquers sponge out and swell every time you apply a fresh coat. I'm going to bookmark that site where you found the epoxy primer; I have to do a '68 Chevelle vert and a '57 Belair one of these days, and I'll need many gallons of epoxy. Thanks! ------------------ '68 C20 - fresh 355,CH465,Dana 60, front disc brakes, rough body '71 C20 parts truck '68 Chevelle ragtop project '57 Belair hardtop project tons of ambition
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'68 C20 - fresh 355,CH465,Dana 60, front disc brakes, rough body '68 Chevelle ragtop project '57 Belair hardtop project '00 S10 pickup daily driver '00 Chev Malibu the wife's car tons of ambition |
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#5 |
Progress = 0%
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 2,108
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One more thing about epoxy primer..... you need to topcoat with primer or paint in a certain amount of time or it will require scuffing with a ScotchBrite pad. If it is allowed to dry too long, it will become so hard that the topcoat won't adhere to it properly. The paint manufacturer should have a spec sheet available that will tell you all the necessary info like mixing ratios, induction time (if any), pot life, drying time, etc. DuPont's webiste has all the info you need on their products.
------------------ Current project: The "HACKstoration" 1967 GMC shortbed/fleetside, 350/700R4, air bag suspension, 18" billet wheels. Other vehicle of interest: 1957 Chevy Bel-Air 4dr hard top, 283/powerglide, lowered 3-1/2" in front and 2 inches in the rear. Web Site: jaySpot.com AOL Screen Name: Slammed67GMC Location: Kansas City, MO
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Jason - '67 GMC swb | '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop | '56 210 4dr Wagon | 2000 GMC Sierra |
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#6 |
huh?
![]() Join Date: May 2000
Location: Washington, Illinois
Posts: 5,692
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I'm sorry, I forgot to mention that it'll be the top coat....
Are there any other special prep things that I need to do? And I take it I need to buy that primer above, with the curing agent as well, right? Thanks 68
__________________
Someday when I'm lonely, Wishing you weren't so far away, Then I will remember Things we said today. RIP El Jay |
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#7 |
"Trucks with Class"
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: OLYMPIA, WA, USA
Posts: 8,132
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All paint manufacturers have good tech sheets on each of their products, that you can get from the paint store, just ask. They give good tips on prep work, mixing, shooting & compatability problems. Always study these sheets before you start shooting. What's that old saying, "If all else fails---read the directions"? That really applies to paint!
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