HEI Installation Directions/Help Please - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

HotRod929 · 10-31-2002, 08:21 PM

Ok I got a new HEI distributor, wires and plugs. Im just a little nervious about this convrt. Im a big wus I know. I have a few questions about doing this and any other tips you guys might have about this install would be greatly apreciated.

1. In some directions I have read it says to make sure the #1 piston is stoped at Top Dead Center...what does this mean and how do I do it?

2. Will I have to adjust my timing after I put the new distributor in? If so how do I do that?

Thanks for all your help guys.

HotRod

*Fast68Chevy* · 10-31-2002, 08:34 PM

HEI conversion is simple, just run feed wire from IGN UNFUSED spade on the bottom of fuse panel to the BATT terminal on HEI cap.
wherever rotor was pointing at on the old points dizzy is whre you iwll want the HEI rotor pointed, if you forgot then you will need ot pull #1 spark plug and clck engine over and cover most of spark plug hole with finger tip while osmeone is bumping engine over in short bursts until you feel the compression stroke(air blowing out of hole, thne stop before it stops pushing out, and turn engine til the timing mark on balance ris liend up with xero degree mark on timign tab, and then get big flat screwdriver or tire iron end and turn the oil pump driverod until the slot in the top if it is lined up with #1 and #8 cylinders, and drop the HEI in and #1 tower is second tower on cap clockwise from the HEI cap wires harness plug, the tower closest to it is the #2 tower,

but from #1 tower it goes 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 and then 2- all going clockwise

left bank(pass side) cylinders from front to back are 2 4 6 and 8
and left side(driver side) are 1 3 5 and 7

sounds complicated but is easy cake once youve done it once or twice. had to do it once a gain just yesterday in a 79 4x4 for a guy after we repaced the high rise intake and holley carb with a stock one and stock Q jet i rebuilt for him to make it more street friendly, runs very strong now but has rear main leak now, hmmm
lol

email me or i can call you if you need

good luck

71GMC_3/4T · 10-31-2002, 10:13 PM

Someone once told me the easy way to get the dist to drop down like it should when you install it: Get it where you want it, then rotate the crankshaft by hand until it drops. Easier to do if all the plugs are out... Sometimes it takes a couple tries, but eventually you'll get it. Like Randy says, it gets easier every time. The first time you may wonder what you got yourself into, but you will get it and it will make all the difference, compared to points. The second time, you'll be over confident and screw it up on the first stab, at least I did...

And don't forget to run a new wire (12 - 14 ga) like he says. It's best to pull your old wires completely out, but you can tape them and wire tie them out of the way if you want.

Jeff M. · 10-31-2002, 11:36 PM

Don't forget to gap those plugs to .45.

bigjimzlll · 10-31-2002, 11:54 PM

this is a easy swap....follow the directions above and you'll be done in no time...one thing I do is, when the oil pump drive isn't lined up right...set the distributor in as far as it will go...then take BFH and hit it as hard as you can,,,no no just kidding..if you bump the starter it will fall right in

71sub · 11-01-2002, 01:14 AM

So the gapping changes from .35 to .45 when you switch to HEI ?

What happens if you run @ .35 ?

*Piston* · 11-01-2002, 01:17 AM

More gap = more fuel ignited. You'll get better burn time, faster igntion and better cylinder effenciency. 45-55 is a good range for HEI - small block chevy.

10-31-2002, 10:13 PM	#3
71GMC_3/4T Weapons Of Construction Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Colorado, USA Posts: 1,095	Someone once told me the easy way to get the dist to drop down like it should when you install it: Get it where you want it, then rotate the crankshaft by hand until it drops. Easier to do if all the plugs are out... Sometimes it takes a couple tries, but eventually you'll get it. Like Randy says, it gets easier every time. The first time you may wonder what you got yourself into, but you will get it and it will make all the difference, compared to points. The second time, you'll be over confident and screw it up on the first stab, at least I did... And don't forget to run a new wire (12 - 14 ga) like he says. It's best to pull your old wires completely out, but you can tape them and wire tie them out of the way if you want. __________________ 1971 GMC 2500, 402/TH400 4.10 Daily Driver Lafayette, CO

10-31-2002, 11:36 PM	#4
Jeff M. Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Pixley, Ca. Posts: 486	Don't forget to gap those plugs to .45. __________________ 69 C-10 CST Short Fleet, Factory Air, BB427-400 Auto-2400 stall-tilt-cruise-Tach & Vac Gagues, 4/6 drop, power one piece side windows, Eaton posi.

10-31-2002, 11:54 PM	#5
bigjimzlll Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Redding,CA...USA Posts: 4,736	this is a easy swap....follow the directions above and you'll be done in no time...one thing I do is, when the oil pump drive isn't lined up right...set the distributor in as far as it will go...then take BFH and hit it as hard as you can,,,no no just kidding..if you bump the starter it will fall right in __________________ It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA

11-01-2002, 01:14 AM	#6
71sub Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Stockton, CA Posts: 169	HEI spark plug gapping ???? So the gapping changes from .35 to .45 when you switch to HEI ? What happens if you run @ .35 ? __________________ 71 C/10 : 350 / 700r4 ; Ford 9" posi 3.50 with 31x10.5 rear tires, single drive shaft, C-notch, 2.5" drop spindles, keyless entry 71 Suburban 350/350 -- caddy tail lights, keyless entry, late model seats, billet Autometer instrument cluster 70 Ford Torino -- 351W (balanced & blueprinted ), C4, VDO gauges

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10-31-2002, 08:21 PM	#1
HotRod929 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Bondurant, IA but in Worcester, MA for school Posts: 767	HEI Installation Directions/Help/Tips Please Ok I got a new HEI distributor, wires and plugs. Im just a little nervious about this convrt. Im a big wus I know. I have a few questions about doing this and any other tips you guys might have about this install would be greatly apreciated. 1. In some directions I have read it says to make sure the #1 piston is stoped at Top Dead Center...what does this mean and how do I do it? 2. Will I have to adjust my timing after I put the new distributor in? If so how do I do that? Thanks for all your help guys. HotRod __________________ 1970 Chevy C-20 350 V-8 Turbo 350 w/ shift kit Dana 60 w/ 4.10 gears AND Powr-Loc POSI New Additions: Summit Headers 135amp alternator Proform HEI Edelbrock 1406 600cfm carb Sunpro Tach Powr-Loc POSI Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake MSD 6A Ignition Box AIM: HotRod929 Visit My Site: http://1970chevy.netfirms.com/ Last edited by HotRod929; 10-31-2002 at 08:44 PM.

10-31-2002, 08:34 PM	#2
Fast68Chevy Account Suspended Join Date: May 2000 Location: IL Posts: 0	HEI conversion is simple, just run feed wire from IGN UNFUSED spade on the bottom of fuse panel to the BATT terminal on HEI cap. wherever rotor was pointing at on the old points dizzy is whre you iwll want the HEI rotor pointed, if you forgot then you will need ot pull #1 spark plug and clck engine over and cover most of spark plug hole with finger tip while osmeone is bumping engine over in short bursts until you feel the compression stroke(air blowing out of hole, thne stop before it stops pushing out, and turn engine til the timing mark on balance ris liend up with xero degree mark on timign tab, and then get big flat screwdriver or tire iron end and turn the oil pump driverod until the slot in the top if it is lined up with #1 and #8 cylinders, and drop the HEI in and #1 tower is second tower on cap clockwise from the HEI cap wires harness plug, the tower closest to it is the #2 tower, but from #1 tower it goes 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 and then 2- all going clockwise left bank(pass side) cylinders from front to back are 2 4 6 and 8 and left side(driver side) are 1 3 5 and 7 sounds complicated but is easy cake once youve done it once or twice. had to do it once a gain just yesterday in a 79 4x4 for a guy after we repaced the high rise intake and holley carb with a stock one and stock Q jet i rebuilt for him to make it more street friendly, runs very strong now but has rear main leak now, hmmm lol email me or i can call you if you need good luck Last edited by Fast68Chevy; 10-31-2002 at 08:38 PM.

11-01-2002, 01:17 AM	#7
Piston Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 2,300	More gap = more fuel ignited. You'll get better burn time, faster igntion and better cylinder effenciency. 45-55 is a good range for HEI - small block chevy.



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