Front X-member notch question

[gottwake]

The truck that I bought has this notch in the front crossmember, it's 1.5". The work is good but am i going to have clearance problems with the motor or anywhere else?

[jlaird]

you will have clearance issues with your inner tie rod ends.

[gottwake]

Whats the fix?

[lowrollin70gmc]

Also, the motor mounts will be screwy, as it's a notch and not a cross member section. The mounts will have to have some creative engineering done to them.

[gottwake]

okay...so how much do i need to section in order to avoid problems??

[XXL]

Based on the one pic, it's hard to see what mods were made. If it's just a notch, and not a section as lowrollin70gmc suggests, you'll run into a number of issues... tie rods and center link clearance, engine height (unless you chop down the motor mount stands, in which case you may have oil pan clearance problems), etc. The proper method for modifying the xmember "like that" is to use Captkaos's method (search). Mine is done that way (by Catkaos, actually) at 1.5" and I don't have clearance problems, but others have reported slight clearance issues with a 1.5" cut, and so have gone for slightly less.

[jlaird]

First thing you have to ask yourself is how low do you want to be and how much money you want to spend to get there. The other key factor is if you know how to weld.

If you don't want to lay frame, I would ditch that crossmember and get one out of a 73-87 with front disks. Get yourself some drop spindles, bag plates and hit the road.(just talking about front suspension here)

If you have some money to spend and want to lay frame, get the dropmember.

If you want to lay frame and are on a budget, well... get out the welder!

[HotRodYJ]

Notch the frame for steering clearance and just raise the motor 1.5". Shouldn't run into much problem at all just raising the motor 1.5". And I'd box in the frame for strength at least at the crossmember section.

[smashingchuck]

OK, this is how mine is dropped raised and there is absolutelty nothing wrong with it. I do not have oil pan clearance problems AT ALL, and the engine is in the stock location. Raise all the steering components up 1.5 inches, notch the frame to clear it, redo the steering shaft, and chop the motor mounts. thats it. done.

here's some old pictures from when I did mine.

The cut out in the frame has a traditional looking 1/4" steel "c-notch" on the inside of the frame rail where the tie rods are.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by smashingchuck

I do not have oil pan clearance problems AT ALL, and the engine is in the stock location.

Depends on your motor. I can't speak for all V8's, but the 250 and 292 inline 6's WILL have oil pan clearance problems. Also, for TH400 transmissions, you may run into clearance problems with the trans tunnel when you raise the motor up that much. Oh... and HEI may be an issue as well.

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by XXL

you may run into clearance problems with the trans tunnel when you raise the motor up that much. Oh... and HEI may be an issue as well.

but, but, but....
I'm not trying to start an arguement here, but I know what I have done on my truck and I know what works. My motor is not raised up, as I have chopped the motor mounts down so the motor sits in the stock location.

[gottwake]

Okay...If i dont choose to buy a dropmember, cant I notch the frame for steering and notch where the oil pan goes if it becomes an issue?
As for a trans, 700R is what I have.

BTW, I do welding on public works projects.

XXL,
Whats HEI?

[PBFAB.COM]

I don't think you're going to have to raise the motor much, if any. But since the crossmember is raised up 1.5" you will also need to move the idler arm, and steering box up the same distance to keep the steering geometry where it needs to be.

If you're not wanting to lay frame, you should be able to make this set-up work without spending too much money... just some time.

HEI is the electronic distributor with the coil mounted in the cap... it's a little bulkier than the original points style.

[smashingchuck]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

But since the crossmember is raised up 1.5" you will also need to move the idler arm, and steering box up the same distance to keep the steering geometry where it needs to be.

that's why mine is raised up the same amount as the crossmember - eliminates a would be bumpsteer problem.

[gottwake]

I dig this place! thanks guys...

[XXL]

Originally Posted by smashingchuck

but, but, but....
I'm not trying to start an arguement here, but I know what I have done on my truck and I know what works. My motor is not raised up, as I have chopped the motor mounts down so the motor sits in the stock location.

Seems like maybe you are. I ALSO know what I've done on my truck, and I know what works. As it turns out, not all trucks are identical to one another... especially since, if you're referring to the one in your avatar, some aren't even the same body styles.

That is all.