Newbie motor questions

[Googenheimer]

My first post here. I just purchased a '67 longbed that is in really good condition for the price I paid. It's a great truck but I have some questions about the motor that's in it. So far I've found out that it should either be a 283 or 327 (if it's even original). Is there a way that I can easily identify it? Also the motor runs well and only uses a little oil due to leaks, but it does have a tinny sort of knocking sound almost like someone was tapping the bottom of a tin can that corresponds with the RPMs. Then when I accelerate it sounds like a diesel until the RPMs get a little higher then it goes away. Obviously something is wrong, I'm just wondering what it could be. I am hoping it may be carbon deposits causing preignition or something and that is where I will start..but that is wishful thinking.
Also, if I do have to get a new motor, what would be the easiest V-8 swap that will mate up to the manual 4 speed? Thanks!

[Chevyholic]

I take it you don't have the SPID on the glove box door? I guess it could still be something else. There are stamped numbers on the back of the block that you can look-up to identify motor.

I believe the 327 and 350 share a block, so replacing with a 350 would be a piece of cake. I don't know much about the 283s though. I would have to search the interwebs to find the link to identify the engine. If I find it, I'll post back here.

If the knocking sound doesn't seem to affect performance too much, it could be a sticky lifter. I've had that problem in the past.

EDIT: Here is one link for decoding the engine: http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.php

Cheers,
David

[berencam]

theres a code on the back behind the drivers head, also there is a head code on the head under the valve cover. grab those two codes and post em back.

[Shyguy]

Welcome from Southeast Missouri.

My 350 has numbers stamped on a pad on the front of passenger side head that tells what it is when decoded. I am not sure if your engine has one.

You also may want to check the timing, what you described almost sounds like a ping that is caused by timing being too far advanced or too low octane gasoline.

Danny

[streetstar]

welcome to the board ---- 283's and 327's are both small - block chevys, (which includes the 262, 265, 283, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350, and 400 -- as well as the popular 383 stroker)

So your engine swap choices are easy-- any of the above would be a pretty straightforward bolt-in. There are web sites that detail the casting #'s out there so you can tell them apart, because there are a few to stay away from -- but a 350 is a "can't miss" choice always


Spend some time checking the thing out though, the pinging might not be a big deal

[WorkinLonghorn]

Welcome to the board from So.Calif.
When the above poster mentioned a SPID he means look inside the glove box door and there should be a list of all the options that came on the truck originallly.
A ticking noise that doesn't get louder if you give it gas is probably just a noisy lifter as was mentioned.Easy fix.
The dieseling noise could be worn rod bearings or bad knocking.Try a little premium gas,or if you have a timing light,check the timing.
One thing;When I got my truck,the previous owner had neglected to maintain it for many years and the oil was like black water.You should probably change all the fluids on yours,including the oil.If it (oil) seems thin and/or is dark brown or black,I'd change it right away.
How about some pictures ?!?- Brian

[steelhorse]

It could also be a bad wrist pin,its hard to tell without hearing it.

[Googenheimer]

Thanks for all of your quick answers. I love boards like this they help out a ton. I will try the timing and premium gas first. I will try to post some pics soon. She's not a show truck but very nice for the price.

[Billla]

The block casting number is the only way to be sure what engine you have:

Casting Number Location
Casting Number List

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by streetstar

welcome to the board ---- 283's and 327's are both small - block chevys, (which includes the 262, 265, 283, 302, 305, 307, 327, 350, and 400 -- as well as the popular 383 stroker)

So your engine swap choices are easy-- any of the above would be a pretty straightforward bolt-in. There are web sites that detail the casting #'s out there so you can tell them apart, because there are a few to stay away from -- but a 350 is a "can't miss" choice always


Spend some time checking the thing out though, the pinging might not be a big deal

Can't believe you left out the MIGHTY 4.4L 267!!! Are you prejudice against 3.5" bores???

[67_C-30]

BTW, Welcome to board Googenhiemer.

[pritch]

Hey Provo, Coalville here!

While it's nowhere near a sure thing, check to see if you have a oil filler tube coming out of the intake manifold at the front of the motor. I'm pretty sure they were only on 307's and 327's. It won't mean anything if it's not there, but if it is it may be the 327.

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by pritch

Hey Provo, Coalville here!

While it's nowhere near a sure thing, check to see if you have a oil filler tube coming out of the intake manifold at the front of the motor. I'm pretty sure they were only on 307's and 327's. It won't mean anything if it's not there, but if it is it may be the 327.

I've never seen the front oil filler on a 307. They came on old 265's, 283's and 327's. All of the 307's were 68-up design engines with PCV valves and oil fillers in the valve covers.