What questions should I ask?

[SRH916]

I am looking at purchasing a '67 Short Fleet, but the seller is out of town, and I can't go look at the truck till sometime after Thursday. I was wondering what questions should I ask just to get a better idea of what I would be looking at/for when I go to see it.

Thanks in advance,
Jared

[SRH916]

Anyone? Just general questions I should ask to get more information.

[chevy72blu]

Are there any pics of it? Any idea what you are planning on spending? Whats he asking?

Just make sure the check engine light is off.


Lol...

Big sellers for me is motor/trans and the condition of them. Ask if he has the reciepts if hes selling them as "recently rebuilt" like everyone likes to say. Ask if hes ok with you running a compression test on each cylinder, vacuum check, and looking for the visible signs of wear (pull a spark plug, check for white smoke, ect). Make sure he is ok with a stress test of the driveline (part throttle shifting/acceleration and WOT shifting/acceleration through all 3 gears). Make sure it shifts easilly through all gears including reverse. Getting under the truck and wiggling the driveshaft is a great way to knock off a few bucks (most people never change U-joint... ever) off his asking price. Check brakes, of course.

Ask him what rear is in it, and make him test it for gear ratio and if it has some type of posi.

As far as body, ask him to take a magnet to the rockers, cab corners, lower fenders on the bed, ect. Rust underneath the battery box, in the bed, ect ect ect. You cant be too thorough when it comes to checking for rust.

Grab the casting #'s on the block and head to give you a better idea of what it really is. Ask him to take a pic of the SPID while you are at it.

Lastly, get under the dash and see how rat-nested previous owners have left it.

Things to ding him on price are: any sort of rust or any problem above, squeeling brakes, tires, battery, starter, leaky exhaust, interior, ect. Get creative if you have to.

Of course, dont hassle him over these things if you dont plan on buying the vehicle.


Let us know how it goes!

These are just the guidelines I use. Adjust them for whatever the plans of your project and or budget entail.

[raggedjim]

Well, I'll bite...

First, take someone else who isn't a truck fan with you. They will see the things that you gloss over in your desire to get a truck.

Second ask to drive it. If it runs fine that is about all you need to know. You can ask all the questions in the world, but it's still a used truck.

Climb all over it. Look underneath at all the rust (it's there, just look) I've seen "restored" trucks that have rotten cab supports in them, or poorly repaired rust. If there's no rust you are ahead of the game.

Don't ask about gas milage (if it matters you don't need a truck...)

Do ask if the title is clear and in hand.

Do check every electrical item on it (lights, fan, horn, etc.) These things can drive you crazy.

Be wary of any "it needs a tune-up" statements... Could be bad plugs... might be a bad cam or distributor...

Buy the best (LEAST rust) truck you can. Engines are a dime a dozen, rust is expensive.

As much as some guys like patina'd trucks, don't let fancy wheels sell you a rusty truck... A clean original will always bring more money.

Good luck, Rg

[cdowns]

wear old dirty clothes andcrawl underneath it check for rusty brake lines rotted spliced wire repairs HOLE rusted thru things that are bent mangled or halfassed repaired make sure its atru short bed not a failed attemt to shorten a long bed/things zip tied together or ducttaped or bailing wired to keep in place excess wet dripping ooze from the engine tranny or readend check the tires to see that they are all the same size all lights work horn works look under the dash for excessive splicing and hanging disconnected wires
the list goes on and on

[raggedjim]

I should probably add that I have usually bought trucks that "hit" me, regardless of their condition, I wish I was smart enough not to do it, but I have bought some horrible trucks in my time...

Rg

[SRH916]

Not sure if he is a member on the board, but for me engine is the easiest thing to get. Friends with a machine shop owner, so most likely a big block swap, if it runs now its just something to sell as a core. the link is here, not sure if he is a member on the board, but he does have a 71 he is putting his time into.

I do have a guy going with me with a car trailer so it will be towed back, running or not. He has alot more experience than me, and he knows exactly when to walk away, me... I probably would just buy it anyways. He's saving me a bit of money.


http://sacramento.craigslist.org/car/718598728.html
hopefully pick it up a bit cheaper than asking, and possibly trade for my '75.

Here are my questions so far.

Sent & Answered
------------------------------------------------
Does the truck have disk/power brakes? Power brakes, drums 4 corners (comes with 5 lug disks)

Was the engine rebuilt recently? Unknown, Runs good.

Approximate miles on engine/trans? Unknown

Does it have a full exhaust? Yes dual

Headers/manifolds? Possible Headers

5lug or 6lug? 6 lug

Electricals work? Yes

Do you have any of the glass? Only door glass (small back window)

Do you have the tailgate? Yes, good condition

What was the original trim level on the truck? ?Custom?

A/C truck? No, just heater

Heater work? Yes reconditioned

Not Answered
------------------------------------------------
Leaf springs or trailing arms?
10 bolt or 12 bolt?
Gear ratio, posi?
Engine burn oil?
Transmission have any leaks?
Do you have any other parts that aren't shown in pictures?
Willing to trade?

Thanks for helping me make a decision on this. I appreciate it.

Jared

[84 400]

Are you buying this to use with the other truck? or as a separate project? That looks like it could be a runner with little work then again pictures normally look better then it is.

[Longhorn Man]

for that kind of money, it better have no rust, ask if it has always been a cali truck... he CLAIMS it to be original paint.. but it may not be.
I'd go over it with a fine tooth comb.

[PanelDeland]

Rust issues I would check are
Cab supports
Cab corners
radiator core support
inner fenders especially the right fender "cup"
cab floor
wiring
Fluid leaks(check levels)empty stuff don't leak
Make sure you start the engine and thoroughly warm it up
as stated run it thru the gears pay close attention to it when cool and after it warms up for changes

[SRH916]

Ok, when I am back in town, I will have to run through this truck with a fine tooth comb like longhorn said. I also have a choice of 2 for a bigblock swap from the machine shop. A built 396, or a 454 core that I would have to go through. Any opinions on which I should go for?

I had a few more questions answered:

1. it has trailing arms and coils.
2.it has a 12 bolt and i don't think it is a posi, as for the gear ratio i will need to check it.
3.as for the engine it seems to be running fine.like i said if it doesn't sell i plan to swap the straight6 in my 71 for the 350. and as far as the tranny goes i see no leaks but it has been sitting for a while. the first thig i would replace if i were to use it will be the tail shaft seal.its easy to replace and those tend to wear over time.
4. the other parts are the tail gate and the straight drivers side bed side.i am sure there is other parts around here as well. i also have an extra tilt .
5.as for a trade i am trying to clear out some projects,so i am going to have to pass on it for now.thanks though.

[SRH916]

The deal is starting to sound a little better each time. Unfortunately he needs the thm400 if he were to swap engines, otherwise I would be fine with less of a price, and just a little big block swap.

[SRH916]

Ok, going to look at it this friday, hopefully talk him down to the low $2k range, if and only if it is cancer free. I'll post an update after friday.

Thanks for the help,
Jared

[msgross]

350 isn't the original engine,,,

why did he post pics of other trucks? just to see what his "could" look like?

SWB fleets are very popular and are always bringing more money. Price might be a tad steep for non-original truck unless it's rust free.

[dan42]

Or, you could just buy it. I overpaid for mine. But I have zero regrets, and I'll have the truck 'till I die. Bottom line, know what you're getting, but it's your call. $2800 isn't the biggest gamble in the world, IMO, especially since it's a truck that's desirable.

[72BLUZ]

you can send a pm to see ten. he can enlighten you on every question and everything to look for. this man is very well educated on these trucks

[SRH916]

Tomorrow is set up to see the truck, I honestly wouldn't mind paying 2800 if there is no rust, or bondo on the front clip. Only thing is the louvers in the hood, but they are starting to grow on me There is a "crease" somewhere in the drivers side bedside, but there is a replacement '67 bedside coming with it, along with a tilt, and other misc. parts. He claims the front clip is in perfect condition, but we will have to see. I'll try to snap some pictures while I'm out there cause I know how some of you guys get.

Wish me luck.

[SRH916]

Any last words of advice? Just want to make sure I get the best possible deal out there, and more importantly know what I would be getting into if I bought it.

Thanks for all the help,
Jared

[msgross]

who knows what your getting into once you buy it. That will depend on your budget, skills and final product. SOmetimes it snowballs on guys and they spend $10K more than they planned!

Clear title and no rust is worth money....