fuse block - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

cacauba · 11-13-2002, 11:44 PM

the only rust problem i have with my truck is under the cowl. i don't have time to fix it right, right now. but when it rains, some water drips on my fuse block. this results in very corroded connections. i've tried using the dremel with a wire wheel but i cant' get in there good enough. i guess my question is, how hard is it to change from one glass fuse block to another glass fuse block? if it sounds as simple as i think it is, then does anybody have a space block? would be nice to get my windshield wipers to lay down again. they stopped half way and wont move. my dash lights dont work either.
thanks
chris

**ThreeQuarter** · 11-14-2002, 12:06 AM

Chris, I just got through doing this for an old friend of mine in his '68. I tried unsuccessfully to patch the cowl; I hope you can get it to work. At any rate, I replaced the fuse box anyway. I bought a used one from a board member and it wasn't too big a deal to replace. There are some funny things in how the harnesses were different but they were wired to do the same thing. Take your time and it's a simple and only somewhat tedious job.

When you're shopping for fuse blocks, I suggest you get the whole harness, too. Also, know that the fuse blocks and harnesses were the same, but were oriented differently when the foot-operated parking brake showed up in '69. An older block will work on yours, it just takes a little repositioning. Ask me anything else about it. Heck, you might check to make sure I'm not passing through Huntsvile anyway when you get around to doing it.

Good luck.

red71cheyenne · 11-14-2002, 12:08 AM

I have one I'll sell you, but it won't be until after the first of Dec. Swapping won't be hard if you can find new clips. Of course if you can find new clips you could just rebuild the one you have. But like I say, I have two and I'll sell you one, it'll just be a little while til I get home. Jeff.

cacauba · 11-14-2002, 12:17 AM

how do the wires in the harness attach to the clips in the block? is it as simple as disconecting one set and reconnecting them into the new clips?

your saying that as long as i get one from a 69 or older i should be okay? btw i have a 69 if that makes a difference.

also is there a quick fix in trying to get my wipers in the down position?

krazy_texan · 11-14-2002, 01:13 AM

dont feel bad about the wiring problem when i got my '71 custom/20 nothing worked but what was needed to start the engine i went to an autozone bought several roles of differnt colored wire and rewired the whole truck using nothing but a role of wire and a crimping tool and everything works just fine except the back up lights because i am cheap , working at whataburger and still in high school budget is very limited but feel free to email me with any quistions on the wiring

**ThreeQuarter** · 11-14-2002, 01:23 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by collegeK5er
how do the wires in the harness attach to the clips in the block? is it as simple as disconecting one set and reconnecting them into the new clips?

Hmm...I think they were rather permanent, pressed in with melted plastic. I'll have to double-check to make sure.

Quote:

your saying that as long as i get one from a 69 or older i should be okay? btw i have a 69 if that makes a difference.

Use any, it will work. Best to use a '69 or newer, though.

Quote:

also is there a quick fix in trying to get my wipers in the down position?

Dunno about that one. If it's the fuse box then just wire around the fuse box or clip the wire and plug it into one of the other circuits. It might be the switch, though.

Good luck.

Huck · 11-14-2002, 09:10 AM

The under dash harness is hard wired to the block---in other words, you can't just unplug the harness from the block. Best course would be to find another complete under dash harness with a good block and spend some time re-routing the replacement harness. Suggest you start early and be comfortable with a pillow or two as it takes time and is kind of a pain as you will be on your back, side, head etc. A beer or two wouldn't hurt!

Lower the steering column, pull the dash cluster, remove the glove box door and cardboard interior, and things will look a whole lot easier. Make sure the replacement harness has soft wiring (ie not dryrotted insulation). Also, once done, make sure every crack and cranny is sealed so that water will stay out. There are several panel-to-panel welded seams under the cowl that can leak and cause the problem. Clear GE Silicon works great.
Good luck---PS, anyone parting out a 69-70-71-72 truck will have what you need and in most cases, they just keep the harness hanging around for spare relays, connectors, etc. Should be cheap!! ($10-20+ship) Regards---Huck

11-13-2002, 11:44 PM	#1
cacauba STL-KKN Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tomball, Tx Posts: 182	fuse block the only rust problem i have with my truck is under the cowl. i don't have time to fix it right, right now. but when it rains, some water drips on my fuse block. this results in very corroded connections. i've tried using the dremel with a wire wheel but i cant' get in there good enough. i guess my question is, how hard is it to change from one glass fuse block to another glass fuse block? if it sounds as simple as i think it is, then does anybody have a space block? would be nice to get my windshield wipers to lay down again. they stopped half way and wont move. my dash lights dont work either. thanks chris __________________ 1969 C10 350/POWERGLIDE 1991 1500 EXTCAB 350 Formally: collegeK5er

11-14-2002, 12:06 AM	#2
ThreeQuarter Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Texan in Iowa Posts: 2,522	Chris, I just got through doing this for an old friend of mine in his '68. I tried unsuccessfully to patch the cowl; I hope you can get it to work. At any rate, I replaced the fuse box anyway. I bought a used one from a board member and it wasn't too big a deal to replace. There are some funny things in how the harnesses were different but they were wired to do the same thing. Take your time and it's a simple and only somewhat tedious job. When you're shopping for fuse blocks, I suggest you get the whole harness, too. Also, know that the fuse blocks and harnesses were the same, but were oriented differently when the foot-operated parking brake showed up in '69. An older block will work on yours, it just takes a little repositioning. Ask me anything else about it. Heck, you might check to make sure I'm not passing through Huntsvile anyway when you get around to doing it. Good luck. __________________ Ben '68 Chevy C10 Custom LWB 327/TH400 2nd owner '16 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE Dblcab 4wd 5.3

11-14-2002, 12:08 AM	#3
red71cheyenne Back in the sticks Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Fordland, MO Posts: 3,188	I have one I'll sell you, but it won't be until after the first of Dec. Swapping won't be hard if you can find new clips. Of course if you can find new clips you could just rebuild the one you have. But like I say, I have two and I'll sell you one, it'll just be a little while til I get home. Jeff. __________________ 1971 Cheyenne C-10 w/700R4 and Tuned Port Injection 1969 K5 Blazer w/Tuned Port 2010 2SS/RS Flaming Orange Camaro 2011 K1500 Suburban 2014 K1500 Pickup 2008 Nissan Altima? The wifes' hoopty

11-14-2002, 12:17 AM	#4
cacauba STL-KKN Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Tomball, Tx Posts: 182	how do the wires in the harness attach to the clips in the block? is it as simple as disconecting one set and reconnecting them into the new clips? your saying that as long as i get one from a 69 or older i should be okay? btw i have a 69 if that makes a difference. also is there a quick fix in trying to get my wipers in the down position? __________________ 1969 C10 350/POWERGLIDE 1991 1500 EXTCAB 350 Formally: collegeK5er

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11-14-2002, 01:13 AM	#5
krazy_texan Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: West Des Moines, Ia Posts: 3,233	dont feel bad about the wiring problem when i got my '71 custom/20 nothing worked but what was needed to start the engine i went to an autozone bought several roles of differnt colored wire and rewired the whole truck using nothing but a role of wire and a crimping tool and everything works just fine except the back up lights because i am cheap , working at whataburger and still in high school budget is very limited but feel free to email me with any quistions on the wiring

11-14-2002, 09:10 AM	#7
Huck Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Shelbyville, KY Posts: 3,269	The under dash harness is hard wired to the block---in other words, you can't just unplug the harness from the block. Best course would be to find another complete under dash harness with a good block and spend some time re-routing the replacement harness. Suggest you start early and be comfortable with a pillow or two as it takes time and is kind of a pain as you will be on your back, side, head etc. A beer or two wouldn't hurt! Lower the steering column, pull the dash cluster, remove the glove box door and cardboard interior, and things will look a whole lot easier. Make sure the replacement harness has soft wiring (ie not dryrotted insulation). Also, once done, make sure every crack and cranny is sealed so that water will stay out. There are several panel-to-panel welded seams under the cowl that can leak and cause the problem. Clear GE Silicon works great. Good luck---PS, anyone parting out a 69-70-71-72 truck will have what you need and in most cases, they just keep the harness hanging around for spare relays, connectors, etc. Should be cheap!! ($10-20+ship) Regards---Huck



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