Alternator Swap Problem

[BigRusty7072]

I recently swapped out the old alternator on my 70 and put in a new one, which is internally regulated. Per replies to an earlier thread, I used the oldsmobile troubleshooting page for the wiring conversion. The alternator charges great and works great, but theres one problem. When I hook up the battery, I can hear the old regulator click, as if somethings drawing somehow. Is this normal, or have I messed something up?? I dont want that thing drawing on my battery every time I let it set.

[Longhorn Man]

You need to bypass it like this;

[BigRusty7072]

I bypassed it like that, only the hidden way. I sotered the wires on the back of the regulator together(in the same order you have), and clipped the resistor.

[Piston]

Ok yall can have a good laugh now.... Tech? YES, Artist? NO lol.

The wiring used for the old style system was only designed for 50A or so. Newer alternators can be anywhere from 70 - 130A so if your upgrading the charging system, might as well upgrade the wiring for the alternator.

I've drawn a small diagram thats easy to follow (I think?).
Items needed:
3ft 10ga wire with eyelet connectors
6ft 14ga wire with butt connectors
1 pigtail for GM alternator.

Run the output straight to the junction block near the battery.
Run the red wire from the GM pigtail directly to the output of the alternator.
Run the white wire from the GM pigtail to the brown wire of your old regulator (disconnect the old regulator harness).

I can tell a huge difference in output after making the change. I used to run the new alternator using the existing wiring... Now its able to charge straight to the battery (which most all cars have gone to this configuration now)

Dont laugh (much)... here comes the diagram

[mikep]

Make sure you run a 100 ohm resistor in your circuit you have marked as red or you will overload the exciting diode and fry your alternator eventually. My boss went through 3 in 2 years before he finally listened to me.

[Piston]

The only difference in running the wire like that vs. running it from the old regulator is voltage. It may see a .5v spike every now and then.

Now if you hook 12v to the excitor wire, you'll burn a diode trio faster than anything lol. The white wire generally has 4-5v present with key on. The red wire is only to power the field circuit.

[racedvl]

That picture that Andy used is a picture of my truck. I did that over 2 years ago, and I have had zero problems with my charging system.

[Longhorn Man]

While mine has only been converted for a year, I to have had no problems whatsoever out of mine.
On the Longhorn harness, I bypassed the regulater all together, and upgraded the wireing in the harness with some thicker (I dunno what guage) wires.