Sway Bars

[chevymotocross]

I have an 87 silverado 2wd. It has many options but I guess the origional owner decided to not have a sway bar (go figure). I'd really like to have one. It's at stock height for now, I do plan on lowering it 3/4 eventually, but for now, I would like some better handling.

I've been looking for months locally. Most parts trucks I've looked at are strip down custom deluxe models with no sway bars. I'm going to try the local junk yard this week. It's a pick and pull yard, I will have to grab it myself. Is it possibly to remove the sway bar in a dirt lot with basic hand tools? I know some of the sway bar is rivited on, sounds like fun Think a hammer and chisel should do the trick? Also, if anyone knows the bolt sizes, that would be greatly appreciated so I don't have to bring an entire socket set to the scrap yard. I'd like to avoid bringing more tools than I need since this yard is filled with inner city thugs roaming around and they like to "borrow" your tools.

Also, this yard usually has a square body or 2, 3 if lucky. I know 2wd surburban sway bars will work, the yard usually has those. How bout the 80's chevy vans? Same sway bar? The lot is filled with those.

[GMBowtie79]

I believe the 1/2 ton Truck bars are 1-1/16" or H/D was 1-1/8". 3/4 ton trucks and Burbs came with a 1-1/16" and the H/D was 1-1/4". That or you can go with a aftermarket bar but that will cost a bit more. Either way your going to need the correct mounting hardware for the bar you get and you'll most likely need to replace the rubber bushings. the polyurethane work well, they also need to be the right size. LMC sells the bar to frame mounts for around $18ea P/N 34-1383 if you don't want to remove the rivits. you might want to bring a drill and a set of bits to get the rivits out, just drill the head off the rivit.

[smashingchuck]

there is no way you are going to get those rivets out with a hammer and a chisel. You would be there all day. I just ordered one from bell tech made specifically for our trucks from summit.

[454HO]

You really don't need the stands that are riveted to the frame. But you do need the U shaped brackets, all four of them. You can drill new holes in the frame and bolt the U bracket to it directly. Pick up some new Moog bushings at the auto parts store... they are polyurethane.

If you were closer I have a 1-1/16" bar sitting in my backyard I would give you.

[LEEVON]

I don't think you'll be able to pull it in the yard without power. I did see a guy who posted once about drilling the rivets out with a cordless but he went through mucho batteries. The only other way that might work is to take a cordless sawzall and cut the front brackets away (new ones can be had fairly cheap). I just had the yard torch sections out of the frame with the brackets intact for an extra $20. It was also a pick-n-pull.

If and when you do get a swaybar you'll be amazed at the difference. I didn't really even want to drive my truck before, it handled so poorly. Really tightens up the cornering, steering, and even has some braking benefit. Good luck let us know how it goes.

[Slonaker]

I bought the riveted on brackets at the dealer, and bolted them to the frame. That was a much better option than a hammer and chisel.

IIRC, the nuts that hold the U shaped brackets to the control arm are locking ones, so be prepared to put a little elbow grease into removing them. As someone else said, they are available in different thicknesses, so make sure you get all the hardware from the donor vehicle. AFAIK, you can run one off a Suburban, and maybe even a C20. Compare it to a C10 before you pull one from a C20 just to make sure. It has been a long time since I looked at them.

If you have a choice, pull the bar from a truck that has already had the front end removed. It will make the work a little easier.

Slonaker