Truck will not start

[c10chevy69]

Well this one has been driving me crazy for a little while now. It's getting fuel and 12v to the dist. but nothing to the plugs. I have tried two coils one is new and had the module checked. Cap and rotor look like new but could be the problem, what do you think?

[soba_03]

I assume we are talking an HEI set up? Check for presents of the carbon button that goes between coil and rotor. Is this a new distributor to this truck? If you have volts to the distributor not much to go wrong, coil lead or rotor button. Good luck...

[LOW DOUGH]

Well, I had the same problem. Couldn't figure it out and went and bought a brand new truck. (Wife made me)

Turned out it was something in the dis. I bought a brand new one, dropped it in and it started right up. Something inside the dis is bad. Don't know what. Try a dis from a junk yard or something. If you or someone has one laying around. I bet it will work.

There are a bunch of different parts inside the dis. I am drawing a blank and can't tell you the names.

[WIDESIDE72]

I had a probelm like this a while back on an HEI. I replaced the pick up, coil, cap, rotor (everything but the housing) and it STILL wouldn't fire. I bought a rebuilt dist and it started right up. I took all the new parts off the old dist and tossed the housing in the junk pile. I run an MSD 6A now since it replaced the sometimes troublesome HEI module. (IMO and experience, 90% of HEI problems are caused by "offshore" cheapo modules and/ or not having the right heat sink grease under the module.

[WIDESIDE72]

You probably haven't cussed at it enough or bled on it enough. Call me and hold it up to the phone and I will give it a good talking to for you. Make sure you cover your ears and no children are within shouting distance. It may get rough. HAHA

[LOW DOUGH]

YEP.... you got to talk mean to it.

[nbroady]

Originally Posted by WIDESIDE72

(IMO and experience, 90% of HEI problems are caused by "offshore" cheapo modules and/ or not having the right heat sink grease under the module.

same thing happened to mine and we replaced the inigition module with a OEM one and it fixed the problem

[67ChevyRedneck]

I had a control module that tested "good" and truck still wouldn't start. Got tired of screwing with it, so I bought a new module anyway... started right up

[70rs/ss]

Yeah, a module is a cheap way to fix an otherwise tested good module! I like the accel or other name brand modules compared to the autozone/checker cheapies. I also carry a spare module as they fail from time to time. Summit sells a complete perf upgrade kit with a cap, rotor, coil, and module for fairly cheap and it is $$$ well spent!!


Here Ya Go, $70 for the Summit version or $170 for the MSD version, I'd go with Summit since thier stuff is name brand stuff with thier name on it (Summit aluminum heads are Brodx IK for about $300 less, same head though, so the HEI stuff may be ACCEL or the like, just in a Summit box)!

SUM-850030 Summit® GM HEI Ignition Tune-Up Kits
HEI Distributor Upgrade Kit, Coil, Cap, Rotor, Module, GM, Red, Kit
Today $69.95

MSD-8501 MSD Ultimate HEI Kits
HEI Distributor Upgrade Kit, Ultimate, Coil, Cap, Rotor, Module, GM, Kit
Today $169.50

SUM-850032 Summit® GM HEI Ignition Tune-Up Kits
HEI Distributor Upgrade Kit, Coil, Cap, Rotor, Module, GM, Black, Kit
Today $69.95

[straitnate14]

ya I bought a summit dizzy and it and it had a bad modual, took it in to test it and it passed, tapped it and tested and it faild put the old crusty gm one back in and what do you know no problems

[c10chevy69]

Update: I tried everything suggested including a new dist. and have had no luck so far. I do have the power wire in the unfused spot in the fuse box but it only putting out 9.8 volts while cranking, 12 volts in the acc. position. Any suggestions?

[LOW DOUGH]

Hmmm, so the new dis is in the right place. (TDC #1 cyl) Not 180 out. Had to ask... I used to do it every time.

Do you have the dis power wire in the right place? If you are standing over the driver fender looking at the dis. Is the wire in the right side of the plug? Or closest to the fire wall? Cuase the one on the left would be for the tack.

I don't know.... just thinking

good luck

[JHART]

Originally Posted by c10chevy69

Update: I tried everything suggested including a new dist. and have had no luck so far. I do have the power wire in the unfused spot in the fuse box but it only putting out 9.8 volts while cranking, 12 volts in the acc. position. Any suggestions?

Did you change the entire distributor or just the cap? Not sure if this applies but i had a similar issue and it ended up being a Control Module. It sat directly under the rotor in the dizzy. Cost me 5 bucks after i spent over 100 on other parts. Go figure ..lol It looks like a little flat black plastic thingy ... sorry wish i could help ya more!

-Hart

[MDC]

Is the distributor turning as you crank the engine? Just a thought

[70rs/ss]

You need to swap the power wire, 9 volts isn't enough to fire the hei, and it'll burn the module up. Pull the old power wire (white wire with a fiberglass insulation wrap on it) from the firewall harness plug and replace the wire with a heavy guage wire, that way it gets 12+ volts at crank and in Accessory. Many years ago I wired one into the fuse box and it wouldn't fire, had 12v with the key on but nothing at crank, so I had it on a accesory terminal which is only powered when the key is in the ON position, not the crank position, which is why I always just replace the resistance wire so the power feed functions as it should and the dist always gets the proper amount of voltage, when it is supposed to!

[JHART]

So what happened with this? Did you get her runing? Just curious. This is a good thread to have for others in case they run into your problem.

-Hart

[c10chevy69]

update #2: Still no luck here folks. Added new cap and rotor still no fire. Tested voltage at the firewall connection and got 12v at acc. but only got 8.5v at crank. Now here's the strange thing this truck used to run at one point because I do remember driving it home when I bought it. I sure am glad I don't actually need this truck right now because I really am beginning to think that this truck does not like me. Any more suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[LONGHAIR]

Just to get it going....By-pass the BS and make a "jumper wire" ...run a "new" wire directly from the distributor to the positive side of the battery. If this voltage thing is your problem, it will start right up. You have to remove it to shut the engine off, the key won't do it.
This is of-course just a testing/diagnosis thing, but if it works we can steer you to the perminant fix.

[cdowns]

Originally Posted by c10chevy69

Update: I tried everything suggested including a new dist. and have had no luck so far. I do have the power wire in the unfused spot in the fuse box but it only putting out 9.8 volts while cranking, 12 volts in the acc. position. Any suggestions?

try a different newer better battery

[LOW DOUGH]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

Just to get it going....By-pass the BS and make a "jumper wire" ...run a "new" wire directly from the distributor to the positive side of the battery. If this voltage thing is your problem, it will start right up. You have to remove it to shut the engine off, the key won't do it.
This is of-course just a testing/diagnosis thing, but if it works we can steer you to the perminant fix.

Great idea.

[hilandr452]

Almost sounds like someone replaced a points distributor with an HEI and used the original power wire, which would have a ballast resistor in the line to reduce the voltage to not burn the points.

If you tried the battery jump idea that would say whether it is or not.

Dan

[kulturekat]

hey c10 i noticed you are in okc where about in okc are you at if you need parts or whatever let me know i went through the exact same stuff a while back.

[ChevLoRay]

[QUOTE=LOW DOUGH;2918357]Well, I had the same problem. Couldn't figure it out and went and bought a brand new truck. (Wife made me)QUOTE]

I got a kick of this comment.

It wasn't my wife but another woman who made the suggestion to me when my HEI took a powder, one New Year's Day. After my truck died and she began honking at me to move out of her way (after all, we were in the turn lane to go to WalMart), I got out and offered to blow her horn while SHE started my truck. Dang, she got an attitude!! Whassup with that?

The wiring to the pickup coil, within the distributor housing, is a possible culprit. All the modules, coils, caps and rotors aren't going to make it work. In my case, the wire that came from the pickup coil developed a break that would cause an open circuit when I let off of the gas and the breaker plate would move. Until I replaced the vacuum advance, it hadn't happened at all....yet.

[Kayotic]

I'd agree with the resister wire. Mine did the same. Seems you can't just splice into it anywhere either.

If your hard wire testing gets you running then that is the porblem.

Get rid of that wire(the one with the insulating sleeve.. I think my wire was yellow, may be corrected though)

Anyway I tried splicing into that wire at the firewall with no success.

Ended up cutting the resister wire at the block, leaving an inch or so then made the splice. She's purring now.(Runs better then my daily).

Atleast your voltage is right on, both at hot and crank.