Front end swap?????? help

[Dean23]

any tips on swapping a front suspension from a 79 1/2ton into my 68. I have the xmember and controls arms, linkage etc.

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Dean
edmonton,canada
68 c10, project in works,350, th350, plain jane.
SLOW AND STEADY GETS THE PANELS READY
http://communities.msn.ca/MyChevytruckpage

[RAGIN68]

Its not a bad swap. Just did mine. Worst part is cleaning parts and painting

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68GMC SWB Gound-up restoration,350/700R4/??? 2002 3/4 HD for a daily driver. Can't get away from the GMs

[Fast68Chevy]

two ways of doing this, all depend son if you will pull drivetrain or not, if not then swap arms only, but keep very close notes on where shims and spacers are from under the upper arms shafts. use 73-up brake hoses and pitman arm when you are finishing up.
good luck


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Randy- Lincoln, IL
randy@ccaonline.com 2177353230
*many GM parts bought, traded, or sold -am parting out: '81 Cutlass Supreme Brougham

current fleet: -71 C-10 350/CH465/3.07- basketcase, #1
-90 Cavalier 2.2L sky blue, a driver
-84 Z28 5.0L/700R4/3.73 daily driver
-84 Firebird/SE 2.8L/T-5/3.73/engine bad, project #2
-82 purple Trans Am, project #3
*Paint is overrated*
© RSS Enterprises 2000

[Blue68]

Fast68Chevy is right. Mostly. You don't have to pull the drivetrain. Just hook a cherry picker to the engine and lift. Unbolt the perches from the crossmember, and drop the entire front end. This allows you to keep the alignment parts from the newer truck. You will have to drill a couple of holes and possibly elongate a couple. But enough of them will line up to get you bolted up. It's not difficult, but it does take some planning.

Use EXTREME caution during all of this. Any single piece can crush most any human body part including fingers, hands, arms and head. Best approach is to place two jack stands on the frame under the cab as well as using the engine hoist, and if you have access to them, two really tall stands at the front frames as backup. You should have a couple of buddies and a REALLY good floor jack capable of decent height. Plan ahead on how you intend to get the old xmember out from under the truck. With the engine hoist and jack stands, you'll have to go sideways.


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'68 C-10 LWB, '98 Z-71 350 w/accessories (Serpentine), Edelbrock Performer, Edelbrock 1405 (600cfm) carb, GM HEI, CompCam Extreme 4x4 roller cam, Thorley Headers, Carter Electric Fuel Pump, Vintage Air, 700r4, 3.73, disc brakes and power steering upgrades.


Way too much money and time..But it's a hobby.

[Brad]

I kept the original crossmember in mine, but used everything else from the 77-it all just bolts right up.

[Dean23]

The engine and tranny etc are out from my 68. There shouls be more than enough room.I know about the safety I'm a mechanic and I don't take chances, especially when I get to use the shop after hours

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Dean
edmonton,canada
68 c10, project in works,350, th350, plain jane.
SLOW AND STEADY GETS THE PANELS READY
http://communities.msn.ca/MyChevytruckpage

[imdarren]

Could you help me understand what the advantages are of swapping the crossmember also, rather than just the ball joints, brakes / spindles etc. I remember someone saying that if you go with the newer x-member the brake lines run nicer?
Any input?
Thanks. Darren

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Darren
Washington State
darrengale67@hotmail.com

1972 GMC C1500 (Bone Stock)
1967 Chevy C10 LWB
Looking for a 72 3/4 Ton 4x4 Cheyenne Super with little or no rust.

[69 longhorn]

I used the original crossmember in the longhorn,with 75 C10 parts. I also used the 75 brakelines/master,& prop valve. No trouble with brackets,just drilled a hole in the frame on ea side for the brake hoses,& had to drill the front crossmember to mount the prop valve........69longhorn.

[Fast68Chevy]

cradles are same minus the tabs for brake hoses on the 71 72 ones, 73-up use hole in frame rail for brake hose to pass through,