Where do I start?

[Steertalker]

First of all I'm new here and this is my first thread here. So let me introduce myself first. My name is Brett Bracken and I'm from Midland, TX. Very glad I found this place.

My son and I just purchased a '71 4WD K10 LB. It is in fairly good shape and runs well, or at least I think so. The engine is a GM replacement crate 350 motor with only about 8,000 miles on it. The transmission has also been rebuilt, I believe. Other than that everything else is original equipment.

Our goal is for this to be a father/son project and to restore the pickup as best we can. I say "as best we can" because neither one of us are gearheads or mechanics, albeit we are both mechanically inclined. We don't have a shop per se and our tools are limited. But we would like to do as much of the work ourselves as possible. What I would like to do is identify those things that we definitely can tackle and those things that will need to be done by a professional mechanic.

In my mind the first thing I think we should tackle is the steering and front and rear axles/differentials. How difficult is it for a novice to replace ball joints, steering knuckles and to overhaul the front and rear axles with new bearings/seals and go back in with full lockers, such as Detroit Lockers or some such thing???

Just looking for some advice or wisdom on how to get started. Got a limited budget too. Oh...not wanting to get real radical, just want to restore the truck to original condition with a few upgrades....like full locking diff's, 4 wheel disc brakes, upgrade the ignition system etc.

Thanks,

Brett

Our new baby....

[onlyifihadachevy]

welcome to the board. But i don't know how hard it would be, but you need a few special tools for the axles. And from my understanding a full locker in the front doesn't work, but thats what i hear and im still going to put one in the front of mine too.

[dammitmitchell]

well brother you have come to the right place!
hey im from abilene! feel free to hit me up
we can go mudding or shootin!

my.. best advice is to PAINT LAST. =-)
what motor do you have?
what shape is the truck overall?
there's a retarded amount of the older chevys in tow yards here..
good luck!

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by Steertalker

In my mind the first thing I think we should tackle is the steering and front and rear axles/differentials. How difficult is it for a novice to replace ball joints, steering knuckles and to overhaul the front and rear axles with new bearings/seals and go back in with full lockers, such as Detroit Lockers or some such thing???

Just looking for some advice or wisdom on how to get started. Got a limited budget too. Oh...not wanting to get real radical, just want to restore the truck to original condition with a few upgrades....like full locking diff's, 4 wheel disc brakes, upgrade the ignition system etc.

While I admire your ambition, when it comes to differentials, there are some things to look out for....
First, there are a few special tools required. You need a socket that is specifically made for removing the wheel bearing nuts. There is also one made just for the tapered cone that is in the upper ball-joint. Other than that, your usual mechanic's tools should be ok.
There is quite a bit of work involved in stripping an entire front axle....some of it rather laborious, but none of it is brain surgery.

Unless it is damaged though, there is no reason to replace the knuckle. It is not a wear item.
Wheel bearings and seals are a fairly simple job and pretty close to the outside. Things get a little more tricky as you get deeper. It is a rather serious thing to get into the differential though. It is not as simple as tear it apart and replace stuff....The "fit" between the ring and pinion is a very precise thing that is easy to disturb. Something as simple as changing the bearings could cause noisy gears or excessive wear or both....and is best left to a professional (plus you will get a warranty)
As far as traction aids...I would stay away from a Detroit Locker in the front. They are fine in the rear of a truck that you intend to off-road quite a bit, but they take some getting used-to for street driving. A Detroit in the front would be VERY difficult to drive/deal with. Clutch type or gear driven style differentials are far smoother and provide great traction w/o harshness. Any of these require removal/replacement of the carrier itself....(Professional again)
"Limited Budget" and any of this, (differentials, rear discs) do not go together well...
I would pop the covers off and see what you have and what kind of over-all condition they are in....
Go through the wheels bearings, ball joints, axle joints, etc. Also rebuild the rear drum brakes and maybe splurge for an add-on Posi-traction unit that doesn't require the removal of the differential. (PowerTrax Lock-Rite) Depending upon which rear axle you have of course....

Just my opinion...I am sure there will be others

[Steertalker]

Dammitmitchell,

In my opinion the truck is in very good shape. The motor is a GM crate replacement 350 with some kind of Holly carberator on it. Don't know much about carbs so that's the best I can tell you. The body has a few places where the original owner drilled holes in it(e.g. the cargo hooks along the bed) that I want to fill in....if that is possible. Also a bit of corrosion beneath the weather stripping along the rock panels. That's really about it.

we can go mudding or shootin!

Hmmm....got any place where a guy could hunt some hogs????

Longhair,

First, there are a few special tools required. You need a socket that is specifically made for removing the wheel bearing nuts.

If you are referring to the spindle nut for the front hubs I believe I have that socket...... big socket about 2 1/2" dia w/4 dogs or prongs on it??????

Unless it is damaged though, there is no reason to replace the knuckle. It is not a wear item.

My terminology may not be correct. Remember..I'm just a novice at this stuff But specifically, I think, I'm talking about the tie rod ends and drag links (the things with the grease fittings and rubbers). Several of them have the grease fittings completely sheared off....don't know how that happened. So I would think they would need to be replaced. Is that something I can do myself????

Also...this past weekend we took the truck down to our deer lease on which there is a large creek that must be crossed. We got the truck stuck (up the axles) twice in real loose river gravel. Only one tire per axle would spin and that is why I was thinking I needed to put the lockers on it. What do you recommend????????

"Limited Budget" and any of this, (differentials, rear discs) do not go together well...

Maybe "limited budget" isn't quite the right term. I just can't spend a lot of money all at once but need to spread it out over time. One thing I'd like to do is get all the mechanical issues taken care of on the drive train and suspension and then have the frame and axles powder coated. Just need some advice as to what to do and when to do it...if that makes any sense. What should I take on myself and what should I pay someone else to do????

So many things I want to do to it and soooo many questions.....

Thanks gentlemen,

Brett

[Eturnit3]

Welcome to the board 1st off!!! Glad to see another father son build. Its great to see so many of these popping up. I cant think of a better way to bond with the youngins. As far as where to start, As a daily driver or even the weekend warrior, I would suggest going over things like brakes, steering components, if the drivetrain feels/sounds/drives good then leave it and make sure your front end is engaging (if only one wheel was spinning in the rear your 4x4 isnt working properly) try rebuilding the front hub assemblies, maybe some new bearings and hubs. You could probably do the ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link yourself but you would definitely want to have it aligned straight afterward. Like the first place you drive it when the work is done is to the alignment shop. From my limited experience, when starting a project like this, you wanna be sure it stops n steers. Usually the 1st things people worry about is lift n lockers n fancy 4x4 stuff. Make sure she steers n stops especially if your son will be driving it. Good luck and enjoy the unlimited knowledge this site contains.

[Eturnit3]

sorry, just saw you said one wheel per axle... my bad, in that loose stuff sometimes it helps to air down, rear locker wouldnt be a bad thing but a front locker tends to be more burden if you drive it on the street.

[LONGHAIR]

If you are referring to the spindle nut for the front hubs I believe I have that socket...... big socket about 2 1/2" dia w/4 dogs or prongs on it??????

Yes, that is the one. The other one I mentioned, for the upper ball joint, is very similar....but much smaller.

As far as "Knuckle", you are correct, this may have been a terminology issue. The knuckle is the big casting that is attached to the main housing by the ball joints. It holds the spindle/wheel onto the truck. All of the moving parts fit into it, so there is nothing about it that can wear out. Unless damaged it is not a replacement type item.

Budget-wise, I guess it is at least somewhat determined by what you call a "lot"....LOL. No, seriously some of this can be done in stages. It just depends upon what you ultimately decide to do....and whether the truck has to stay drivable the whole time. Some things just have to go together....If you are replacing the carrier to get a locker of some kind...that is the time for bearings and seals too. But you can do one end at a time and save the money to do the other later.

In my opinion:Assuming that the ring and pinion gears are good and you do not intend to change ratios... the most economical way to go about this and still end up with a capable truck:

I would tear into the front end yourself. It is not that bad and several of us here can walk you through it. Inspect/replace wheel bearings and seals, replace axle joints and the inner bearing of the spindle. Pull the carrier out, being very careful to mark the caps and shims to replace them exactly as they came out. This will get you a look at the carrier bearings and access to the inner axle seals (inside the axle tube just behind the carrier's mounting place). Replace those inner seals and make note of the bearing's condition and put it all back together.....even if they are a little worn. If they are really bad, I would take the entire housing out from under the truck and take it to a professional at this point. All he needs is the housing, carrier and gears, so you should be able to save some money this way too. You will be doing all of the disassembly/reassembly other than the actual gear set. If the bearings really are that bad, the ring and pinion are too......If you are going to "pay the man" spring for the gears too. This is also the time to look into a posi unit of some kind. Since you are paying the same either way, it doesn't cost any extra (labor wise) to put a different carrier back in. But if you escaped this part, meaning that your bearings were good, skip it and save the money.
After that, it is all reassembly time. Ball joints, tie rods, drag link, etc. should be inspected and replaced as needed. On a four wheel drive, I always replace ball joints in pairs. If one is bad, the other is too....or will be soon. It takes a lot of work to get there, do it once. Axle joints do one of two things, they get loose, or the rust up and get stiff. Check them carefully, again a lot of work to get in that far later. At this point, the front is done.
The back can be done a few different ways....which is why we started in the front. If you got through the front yourself, which translates to less $$$. You may want to spend some in back. Take it to a professional and have a full sized Detroit Locker (or whatever you choose) installed and have them replace any/all carrier and pinion bearings. Tell them to leave the outer stuff for you.
If you already dropped a bundle up front, you may want to go with the smaller locker that I told you about earlier. You can do that yourself....again assuming that the ring and pinion and bearings are ok. Check and replace anything needed out back...axle bearings/seals, wheel cylinders and brakes.
You will be amazed at how much difference a Locker makes in the rear only, Posi-traction in the front is for the most extreme cases....and you do NOT want a Detroit Locker there...ever! The steering will be very nasty and unpredictable. Clutch-type or gear driven units or even "selectable" lockers (air, electric, etc) are much better behaved or controlled.

IMHO, rear disc brakes are an luxury that can wait...maybe forever. Unless you do a lot of water or heavy mud driving, they are just not "needed"

[Steertalker]

Thanks so much Longhair spending the time to talk to me. I have some more questions but will have to wait til tomorrow. Gotta go right now. Talk at you later.

Brett

[msgross]

welcome... sounds like a fun project...

keep it simple for now and enjoy the truck.. then add goodies as you go.

[Yukon Jack]

Really nice looking project!

[68,69 K20]

Welcome to the board! Solid looking truck, good luck with it.

[BIG HEAD]

STEERTALKER
First lets talk steers. I have been getting one in Nov. and butchering it in March after a few months of being on corn and cotton seed. Last year I bought a charlay (sp)? It was the best tasting so far but more fat for a smaller steer. Before I have always gotten black angus. What would you recomend. I was thinking of trying a limozene.
*
Welcome, as you will soon find out there are alot of opions here. Most of them will work, you just have to figure out what works best for you. I will give you a few of mine. The body looks good from the pictures. You have expressed doing a few mech. changes and up grades. I like to start with a good pressure washing. Plan on getting dirty. Lay down and get all under neath your truck. Use a screw driver or a putty knife in the caked in areas. Clean it good. If it is bad spray some degreaser on it the night before. What this will do is make it easier when you start wrenching on it and it will also help you to pinpoint any leaks. Then start off by fixing leaks. Leaks can cause all kinds of problems. The wife dont like it much when she steps were the thuck had leaked for several days and falls down or the kids track it into the house.
*
As far as the lockers go. I dont want a 1, 2, or 3 wheel drive. I want a 4wd. So I like lockers front and rear. If you have manual locking hubs it is not going to make one bit of difference having a locker in the front when it is in 2wd street driving. Yes it does make it hard to steer when it is in 4wd. But it is hard to steer anyway when you are crossing someone elses ruts. If you are in 4wd and get into a place you have to do some tight steering all you have to do is unlock ONE hub.
*
The rockers are bad about rusting. The factory did not prime or paint the insides, and they are always getting moisture in them. When you replace them make sure you put a good primer on the inside before you put them on. The black e coat that comes on the tawian replacement is not very good for the long haul. The paint is a color that can be spotted in if you get the color shade right. When that time comes go to a local dealership and ask one of the sales managers if they can reccomend a good lot spot repair painter. (they usually work for themselves and travel around to the different dealerships fixing little scratches and are very good at spotting in areas) They are usually farely cheap but make good money in volume.

[mrmojo32]

Welcome to the board and you have found the right place for sure.

Great looking truck.

[Hutch]

Welcome Steertalker
Nice Looking West Texas truck. That will make a nice project.

I grew up in Odessa in the 60's
I had a friend from school that his dad was a mechanic on the Chaparrals.
We used to ride our go karts on Jim Halls Rattlesnake Track.