Lowering springs/shocks

[wwotr]

I'm going to be putting a set of Lowered Springs/Shocks on my 72 GMC Shortbed Fleetside.
I'm going 3" Lower Springs in Front and 4" in the Rear along with shortened shocks.
As you can see from the attached pictures, the previous owner cut/Torched the Springs in Front.
My Truck rides like a Cement Truck.
Way too Low in Front and way too High in the Rear!

I wanted to see if anyone else installed Lowering Springs and how they liked the look/Ride Quality.

What Kit did you use ect?
Roger

[ZombieWeinerDog]

Originally Posted by wwotr

I'm going to be putting a set of Lowered Springs/Shocks on my 72 GMC Shortbed Fleetside.
I'm going 3" Lower Springs in Front and 4" in the Rear along with shortened shocks.
As you can see from the attached pictures, the previous owner cut/Torched the Springs in Front.
My Truck rides like a Cement Truck.
Way too Low in Front and way too High in the Rear!

I wanted to see if anyone else installed Lowering Springs and how they liked the look/Ride Quality.

What Kit did you use ect?
Roger

i got mine from LMC, they're not to bouncy, a little on the stiff side. but i never have a problem bottoming out.

[wwotr]

Thanks ZWD!

I bottom out on almost every dip, Rut, Pothole, Bump on the road.
Theres a sucession of small bumps (about 6 of em') in a 30' space on the road into town. If I don't slow down to AT LEAST 15 MPH, its like an Earthquake that gets progessivly worse.
Damn near loos control of the Truck every time.
Roger

[ZombieWeinerDog]

i usually slow down for railroad tracks, but only for the bad ones here in michigan. i dont even want to talk about the pot holes...

[wwotr]

But your ride quality was much improved?
Roger

[ZombieWeinerDog]

Originally Posted by wwotr

But your ride quality was much improved?
Roger

alot less bouncy, but every car slows down or goes around the massive pot holes in michigan.

[Tom Vogel]

Ive used Early Classic Enterprises on my SWB 69 Chevy (very nice)

I used Air Ride Technologies on my 72 2wd Jimmy... excellent as well.

Both these companies have Excellent products which are Proven. They have excellent and honest costomer service as well.

You also might call Wes at Classicheartbeat.com ... he is VERY knowledgable and a standup guy (and a site supporter/vendor)

[wwotr]

Actually I've been dealing with Jeff" at CCP (Classic Performance).
He's been really informative and answered all my questions and also gave me a Discount for being a Forum Member here!

I was thinking of going with Early Classics but they only had a 2"-4" Kit for my Truck.
I really wanted to go with at least a 3" Drop in front and like a 6" Drop in back.
At least this way (with a 3"-4" Kit), I will come back as money permits and go with Drop Spindles in Front, and maybe a lowering block in the Rear.
I really wont be able to tell until I see it on MY Truck.


Roger

[jpttaylor]

I just purchased a 4/6 drop kit from ECE for my 67 SWB. Thet should have one for your 72 as well. I worked with Stan at ECE. Very nice, very knowledgeable.

[BHyatt]

Have you found a place where you can buy just the brackets to weld on the rear-end to flip the axle above the rear end?

[wwotr]

JPTTAYLOR,
Do you have a link?
Did you buy the Shock AND Springs?
What kinda $$ are we talking about?
I was quopted $349.00 for all (4) Springs and Shocks.
I'd REALLY like to see the "Stance" on your Truck.
Can you post a picture HERE or send me one privatley at: WWOTR@MCHSI.COM

THANKS!
Roger
=======================================================

Originally Posted by jpttaylor

I just purchased a 4/6 drop kit from ECE for my 67 SWB. Thet should have one for your 72 as well. I worked with Stan at ECE. Very nice, very knowledgeable.

[wwotr]

I was also told that if I went lower than a 2" Spring in Front, (without a Drop Spindle) then I would be unable to Align the Front end.
I have "other companies" telling me that is NOT the case.
So now I'm confused.
I'd REALLY like to get that rear end down but ten I also hear that anything lower than 4" in the Rear, you need to get a "Parbar" (sp) something like that because it throws off the Rear End and it wants to thrust towards the Drivers side.

Roger

[Tx Firefighter]

I have lowered a bunch of trucks with 3 inch springs in the front. They always align just fine.

To save some cash, order Sum-G727 part number springs from Summit. This is a front 3 inch drop spring. They run about 80 dollars per pair. They are Ground Force springs. I posted some pictures on here recently of them when I ordered a set a month or so ago.

[wwotr]

Thanks TX Firefighter.
I know that you are versed when it comes to Lowering and your input is appreciated.

So the story about Lowering the Rear more than 4" making the Rear Shocks lay almost flat, is nothing to worry abpout either?
Roger
=========================================================

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I have lowered a bunch of trucks with 3 inch springs in the front. They always align just fine.

To save some cash, order Sum-G727 part number springs from Summit. This is a front 3 inch drop spring. They run about 80 dollars per pair. They are Ground Force springs. I posted some pictures on here recently of them when I ordered a set a month or so ago.

[Tx Firefighter]

I have lowered them 6 in the back without shock extenders and driven zillions of miles. They ride okay I guess.

But, the first time I went all the way and got shock extenders for a truck, I noticed a huge improvement in ride quality compared to previous 6 inch lowered trucks. Now, I always spring the extra scratch to get the extender kit. It's worth it once you have felt the difference in ride.

[wwotr]

OK!

I'm ****ING STOKED!!!

UPS conformation that my 3"Front/4"Rear Lowering Springs and (4) Nitrogen Charged Custom Shocks are arriving TOMORROW at my Front door.

I can SO hardly wait.
Everyone here and at CPP have said it will "practically" be a Night-n-Day difference in Ride quality.
This couldn't come at a better time.

Yesterday my Wife was Teaching at the Firing Range. She Texted me and asked me to bring out a couple of folding chairs. On the drive over the road wasn't bad (remember I'm driving on Torched Springs cut 5" in Front), but I was doing 40-45 MPH (that's the speed limit) and had a total of 5 Vehicles pass me in the passing lanes or over the Double Yellow Line.
The last guy that did that, gently blew his Horn a FLIPPED ME OFF!
Then there was Grandpa, that passed me over the Double Yellow in his Tacoma!
P.S. I guess this would also be a good time to replace the "Bump Stops" while my Mechanic is down there too....correct?

P.S. Does anyone know what the Heigth is for a Stock OEM Bump Stop?
I plan on keeping my Inner Fenders and after the 3"/4" Springs I may go Drop Spindles (Later this year) but I'm not bagging it.

Roger
(On Cloud 9)!

[Highsteel]

Originally Posted by wwotr

.....but I'm not bagging it.

In six months time you will wish you had, I know I did after my 4/6!

[wwotr]

This is the stance I'm trying to achieve.............

BEFORE you say it, I Know I wont be acheiving this with a #/4 Drop, but my future plans call for Drop Spindles too.
I believe this goy is running 20's.


Roger

[special-K]

That`s about a 4/6.
ECE`s kit is spindles+1" springs(3 1/2") in front and 6" springs in rear.That is the max you want w/o a c-notch.I think you`ll still want an adjustable track bar.At over 4" you want the super track bar that relocates the outer mounting location.

[Dave Reed]

Originally Posted by Highsteel

In six months time you will wish you had, I know I did after my 4/6!

Why do you say that?

[Highsteel]

Originally Posted by discreet007

Why do you say that?

I'll start with my drop. I started with a stock ride height, that is no sag and measurements the same as LMC "stock. I used 2 1/2 inch spindles up front and 4 inch springs at the rear.
I started up front with the spindles and then put the springs in the back. The rear came down just a little over 5 inches, so to achieve the stance I was after I removed the front springs and cut I think 1/2 coil off looking for about an inch.
So I ended up with 3 1/2 and 5. Not a bad stance, and pretty close to what I had envisioned.

The only problem now is when I'm not wishing is was 2 inches lower, I wish I had more weight capacity or my rear bumper(trailer ball) was 6 inches higher.
Had I spent a couple hun more for bags all would be right in my little world.
Well, almost anyway!

[eightbanger]

I always thought that with a 5/6" drop in the rear you need to notch...is that not the case??

[see ten]

One of the issues with 3" drop springs is that they tend to fall over in the spring pocket once you've jacked the front wheels up high enough to completely unload the lower control arms (wheels off the ground). You'll also want to trim your bumpstops otherwise you're still going to bottom out. Your ball joints will also be at less then ideal angles with 3" drop coils.

I'm not disputing TX. He's owned a lot of these trucks and he knows what he's doing. However a 3" drop coil isn't going to ride like a 2.5" drop spindle combined with a 1" drop coil would.

Out back you can take the lower shock brackets and swap em left to right (drivers side to passenger side) and flip em upside down. This will get your shocks at a better angle without buying the relocator kit. The angle won't be as good as if you used the relocator kit but it'll be better then if you still had em in the stock location.

This truck is lowered 3.5"/6"

[see ten]

Here's the write up I did when we lowered my brothers C10 a few weeks ago. It mentions the use of a C-notch and the things that we've heard about them.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ight=worthless

Once you've installed your 3" drop coils in the front you won't be able to seperate your ball joints like we did in this video either. (Due to there not being any pressure on the lower control arm while it hangs free.)

[Dave Reed]

Now that we have officially hijacked this thread I was always under the impression that a bagged setup rode smoother. I am in New England and the potholes are a plenty. My current 06 with a ground force 1" drop rides pretty stiff.