Need help pulling motor!!!!

[VanceH]

Ok so i removed the front clip, unbolted everything. For some reason the tranny on this 69 c20 is lower on the bottom and i cant get it out. I really dont want to split the engine and tranny. I tried to remove the top of the tranny but no luck. any ideas?? what about lifting the front of the cab?

thanks

Vance

[BAGNDRAGIT]

its hitting the front crossmember correct?

lifting the front of the cab is possible, i have had to do it, just make sure you disconnect all things that couldget damaged, i.e. steering electrical brakes and so on.


Good Luck!

[VanceH]

no its hitting the tranny cross member, the back of the tranny sits about 5 inches lower than the crossmember. The top of the tranny will not clear the fire wall when you jack up the tranny to clear the member. I am about to get the torch out and make a nice big frickin hole in the firewall.!!!

[BAGNDRAGIT]

can you drop the trans crossmember, dont cut the firewall! lol

[El Jay]

Do you have one of them engine "leveler things" so you can shift the bias of the engine & tranny on the hoist.
Sorry, I can't remember the technical name for it.

[Longhorn Man]

9 bolts and the tranny comes off.

If it's kickin your ass so bad, and beating up your truck, and most likely you already have a dextron buddle that covers most of your work space... they are you so se against splitting them?

[68C15]

so this is a manual trans with the X-member mounted to the bellhousing? I would leave the bellhousing and trans in place and just do the engine. place a floor jack under the back of trans for support while engine is out. this is how the engineers designed it to be done.

or you could go through the work of cutting the rivets holding the X-member to the frame and continue with your current method.

[Shyguy]

When we tried to pull the l-6 engine with a 4 speed compound tranny out of my '67 it would not come out even though we had the front clip and such removed.

So we supported the tranny and removed it from the engine. Then the engine came out ok.

Danny

[VanceH]

Ya but i really didnt want to remove the tranny from the engine, you see i am not a mechinic and am afraid that if i do that i might be over my head. I am going to try to tilt the cab back, but if that doesnt work not sure.

Thanks for all the help after many hours of trying yesterday i was about to get the chain saw out!!

[BluTrukker]

If you are disassembled to the point that you can tip the cab, why not undo all the cab mounts an jack the whole thing up. Otherwise, if you are pulling an engine, you definitly have the mechanical knowhow to seperate the tranny.

[mr48chev]

Normally guys separate the engine from that trans and just pull the engine while leaving the bellhousing an trans in the truck. five bolts on the bellhousing plus the cover if it is on the bellhousing plus the starter if it bolts to the bellhousing.

The other option is take the body mount bolts out, disconnect the steering shaft and maybe the brake lines and raise the cab up enough to get it out.

[Longhorn Man]

i missed the 4 speed part.
Seems even more pointless to pull them together.
I agree with what was already said... if you are this far and not over your head... you can split the two.

[rambler]

Originally Posted by VanceH

Thanks for all the help after many hours of trying yesterday i was about to get the chain saw out!!

not the chainsaw,, SAWZALL!

J/K I've pulled a few engines, but have pulled them both engine and tranny together. only once pulled a tranny by itself, and next time I have to do that I'll get a transmission jack!

Good Luck

[70rs/ss]

Shouldn't this have a high hump that unbolts? If so take it out and the trans/motor can come out together, but split the two, as long as you leave the clutch/pressure plate together lining the input shaft back into the clutch is fairly easy stuff?? BTW you did pull the shifter out right, just askin, the metal retainer just needs to be pushed down and turned then it pops out??

[cparman]

Ok here is my $ .02 set the motor back on the mounts, but hold a bit of pressure on the engine with your cherry picker. Remove the transmission cross member, and remove the transmission. I assume that this a granny gear type 4 speed trans. If so you will need a bit of help to get it on the ground. A floor jack under the trans, to be able to slide it back away from the engine would be a big help. We would pull the engine separate from the trans at my shop, and all of the sheetmetal would still be intact.

[70rs/ss]

^^^ BUT the crossmember for the 4-speed is riveted to the frame, so a torch and or lots of drilling grinding and cussing are also needed!! In theory the trans should just stay there.

[cparman]

OK, I would then leave the trans in place, but separate it from the engine. The trick for most all, will be getting the trans back into the pilot bearing. You know that a bit of wiggling, and fussing will be needed to get them married back together. IF after the engine is removed you could then remove the trans.

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

^^^ BUT the crossmember for the 4-speed is riveted to the frame, so a torch and or lots of drilling grinding and cussing are also needed!! In theory the trans should just stay there.

[Sammy]

I agree to seperate the two. But be carefull that 4 spd tranny is really a heavy monster. Reinstalling it required in my case to have someone help pull up inside the cab with the hump removed. Because the tranny wants to tilt on you and is a bit unstable.

[Longhorn Man]

which is why the floor comes off in a 4 speed aplication.

[treveiger]

Haha I'm on the same boat, how'd it go? How do you exactly disconnect the bellhousing from the motor when its still in. I feel your pain man I about told dad to get the damn sawsall an go ape s*** on it don't worry I have a future father in law that does body work.
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[TrkEnvy]

I believe you leave the bellhousing attached to the motor and detach the tranny from the bellhousing. Could be wrong, I have never done a manual in these trucks.

[CaptRMW]

Originally Posted by TrkEnvy

I believe you leave the bellhousing attached to the motor and detach the tranny from the bellhousing. Could be wrong, I have never done a manual in these trucks.

Leave the bell housing attached to the motor mounts and unbolt it from the motor. Cut a 2 X 4 long enough to reach across the frame at the tailshaft of the transmission and C clamp it under the frame to support the back end of the transmission, shim as needed between the 2 X 4 and the tailshaft. This method will allow you to roll the truck after removing the engine without trying to keep a floor jack under the transmission. Good luck

[68C15]

Originally Posted by treveiger

Haha I'm on the same boat, how'd it go? How do you exactly disconnect the bellhousing from the motor when its still in. I feel your pain man I about told dad to get the damn sawsall an go ape s*** on it don't worry I have a future father in law that does body work.
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try this.

Originally Posted by 68C15

so this is a manual trans with the X-member mounted to the bellhousing? I would leave the bellhousing and trans in place and just do the engine. place a floor jack under the back of trans for support while engine is out. this is how the engineers designed it to be done.

or you could go through the work of cutting the rivets holding the X-member to the frame and continue with your current method.

where is the truck? want some help?

[John Pasinski]

If I may throw in my .02. I can really empathize with you. I pulled my 402 to overhaul. Did it all myself, by myself. I too pulled the clip. The transmission WILL NOT come out with the engine. The only way they may POSSIBLY come out together is if you remove the trans. crossmember to allow the trans to drop low enough to clear the firewall, but you must also raise the truck waaaaaay up to allow the rear of the trans to clear the floor. If the crossmember has never been removed, then you must separate the engine & trans and pull the the trans separate with a trans jack. Even doing it this way, the truck still requires that it be raised significantly to slide the trans out from under while sitting on the jack. Then, if you're if you want to get in deeper you can remove the crossmember rivets (not easy) and replace them w/ bolts for the next time.
Yes, getting them back togther was a stinker too. The input shaft doesn't like sliding back into a new pilot bearing. I had to draw the trans back onto the bell housing by using the trans bolts.
It's much easier with (2) guys and double the muscle power.

[treveiger]

Originally Posted by 68C15

try this.


where is the truck? want some help?

The truck is a little out of Hartford right now and I won't probably be trying do this again for at least three weeks but ill keep you up to date and maybe if your free that'd be great, everything on the motor/transmission is unbolted and just sitting there .
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