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Old 01-02-2003, 07:33 PM   #1
Captkaos
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Crossmember How to Page is up...

By popular demand, I have put together a how to on my chopped crossmember. Let me know if something isn't working correctly. I just threw it together.....

You can get to it through my main page using the How-to projects link, or here: http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/howto.html
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Old 01-02-2003, 07:41 PM   #2
gchemist
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Way cool mod. Sure is not for the faint of heart. Nice job.
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Old 01-02-2003, 10:14 PM   #3
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Thumbs up

Very interesting . I was wondering what is the purpose of choping the crossmember? jay 78 stepside 4/6 drop flip kit
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Old 01-02-2003, 10:50 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally posted by Riptide's 78p/u
Unreal!!!!!!! BTW HOW much you charging to do it? 2 cases of beer?
Thanks, since I don't drink that would be a problem, but I will make you one for $200.
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Old 01-02-2003, 11:32 PM   #5
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Chris, will you need to "chop" or lower your tans crossmember to match the engine crossmember...won't the angle of the drivetrain be ackward if you don't? What else will you have to rework to get your Frankenstein idea to work??

BTW - I have ALWAYS liked Frankenstein...so it wasn't a slam...OK.

-Jeff
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Old 01-03-2003, 12:13 AM   #6
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It requires no modification whatsoever to the driveline. You eyes are fooling you. I am only moving the place the control arms mount up. The motor mounts and their relation to the frame rails never move. No slam taken. You gotta do better than that to get me going.
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Old 01-03-2003, 12:30 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Captkaos


Thanks, since I don't drink that would be a problem, but I will make you one for $200.
if you are serious, put me in line. i would like one.
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Old 01-03-2003, 12:35 AM   #8
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i noticed in your article your 'disclaimer' about the steering shaft what do you plan to do on yours to keep it from hitting the drivers upper control arm?
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works

'05 1500 Crew Cab

RIP
'84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker
'80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's
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Old 01-03-2003, 02:25 AM   #9
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So, the way I understand it is this:
On a 2wd truck, the front suspension is attached to the engine crossmember.

That doesn't make much sense to me. Is that right?
-- Mike
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Old 01-03-2003, 02:49 AM   #10
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could we go the other way and lift a 2 wheel drive in the same manner??
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Old 01-03-2003, 12:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by low 84
i noticed in your article your 'disclaimer' about the steering shaft what do you plan to do on yours to keep it from hitting the drivers upper control arm?
I will either modify the linkage with a joint, or it I have to, notch the arm.
I will ask my welder if he wants to do another one and show him this post. It is possible, and I wouldn't mind doing it.

TX Mudder
Yes, the engine bolts to a mount that bolts to asupport that goes from the crossmember to the top of the frame: See pic of how it works.
http://www.captkaoscustoms.com/images/framecross3.jpg

Prerunner1982,
Yeah, I guess you could add some length in there if you wanted.
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Old 01-03-2003, 02:22 PM   #12
79BIG10
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Nice work Capt. So this give you how much of a drop with the bags? Also do you have a pic of the arms installed on that piece? I'm trying to visualize what it looks like (not that I'd do this project just trying to get the idea )

Edit: Thanks for the pic in the thread above Capt. I didn't see it before. Frame looks sweet!!!
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Old 01-03-2003, 02:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by Captkaos


Thanks, since I don't drink that would be a problem, but I will make you one for $200.
If that's the case I'll pay you to do me one. What would be the turn around time for these?

I'm pretty sure I'd be able to lay body up front, I'll need shorter shocks out back for that, with this or at least be close enough to say I am.
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Old 01-03-2003, 07:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by fiveeightchevy

If that's the case I'll pay you to do me one. What would be the turn around time for these?

I'm pretty sure I'd be able to lay body up front, I'll need shorter shocks out back for that, with this or at least be close enough to say I am.
i'm first in line bish!

chris looks like there could be a market for these. you should go into business. i'm really interested so see if you welder will do another one. i could front you the money in about a month if you want it before you start.
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works

'05 1500 Crew Cab

RIP
'84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker
'80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's
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Old 01-03-2003, 07:38 PM   #15
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Thumbs up

notching the arm is what i was thinking. wouldn't have to be to big of a notch and then it could be 'boxed' in where the metal was cut out.
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works

'05 1500 Crew Cab

RIP
'84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker
'80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's
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Old 01-03-2003, 07:50 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by low 84


i'm first in line bish!

chris looks like there could be a market for these. you should go into business. i'm really interested so see if you welder will do another one. i could front you the money in about a month if you want it before you start.
I can also have the money in a month or so.

So what mods other than installing the new mount would need to be done? Notching the arm?
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Old 01-03-2003, 08:01 PM   #17
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A universal joint for the steering shaft would prob be a good idea if you go more than 1.5 inches. Captkaos, how much did you actually section out of that crossmember? I think when I measured mine I came up w/1.5 max before the tierods required a notch for travel as well.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 01-03-2003, 08:12 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by SCOTI
A universal joint for the steering shaft would prob be a good idea if you go more than 1.5 inches. Captkaos, how much did you actually section out of that crossmember? I think when I measured mine I came up w/1.5 max before the tierods required a notch for travel as well.
Something like this?

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Old 01-05-2003, 02:45 AM   #19
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Yep, those are the ones. 'Borgeson' joints, I believe is how the name is spelled. fiveeightchevy, is your ride body dropped? Or is that pic from something else?
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 01-05-2003, 10:05 AM   #20
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Sweet page! I did "notice" one thing though. . . . It says Blazer tank how to at the top. If I wanted to install a Blazer tank, I would be mighty confused If I had to remove my engine and cross member!
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Old 01-05-2003, 03:52 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by SCOTI
Yep, those are the ones. 'Borgeson' joints, I believe is how the name is spelled. fiveeightchevy, is your ride body dropped? Or is that pic from something else?
no thats not his, his isn't that clean under the hood

there really isn't a reason to bodydrop our trucks, the lowest part is the crossmember, if you get an aftermarket crossmember or make one like chris you should be able to lay the body without a body drop
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works

'05 1500 Crew Cab

RIP
'84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker
'80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's
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Old 01-05-2003, 04:40 PM   #22
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Yep, I looked into doing a body-drop on my 67 & measured across the lowest portion of the framerails & it was only about 3/4" lower than the rockers. IMO if you did a body drop, the rocker would take any impact & I wouldn't want to do all that work just to have it torn up that easy. I'll like the 3/4" cushion.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 01-05-2003, 07:58 PM   #23
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SCOTI,
I only cut 1.5" out, for the exact reason you stated.

5-8:
Yep, those are the joints.

And my welder (actually my brother) said if I get another one and mark it, he will cut it. Now I just got to get another crossmember. Wonder how much it is going to cost to ship this sucker?
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1987 R10 twin turbo LS
1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab
1985 K5 diesel swapped project
1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project
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Old 01-05-2003, 09:31 PM   #24
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i bet it will cost around $75 bucks to ship it. which i don't mind paying. $300 or so bucks is alot cheaper then going to fatman and paying 2 grand for an aftermarket crossmemeber setup
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works

'05 1500 Crew Cab

RIP
'84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker
'80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's
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Old 01-05-2003, 10:39 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by low 84
i bet it will cost around $75 bucks to ship it. which i don't mind paying. $300 or so bucks is alot cheaper then going to fatman and paying 2 grand for an aftermarket crossmemeber setup
Good job now he's going to jack up the price.

I don't mind paying $300 with shipping either.
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