68 C20 Startup.

[eagleuh1]

Got my engine rebuilt and back in. Ready to startup just about. What are the plugs supposed to be gapped at for a 68 327 with point distributor? What is initial point gap supposed to be set at? Also, any good references on the internet for rebuilding a Q-jet 4 barrel. Already have NAPA rebuild kit. And will include pics as soon as I get everything put back in the engine bay. Thanks . Jim.

[john]

Heres a couple of Q-J links Gap plugs at .035 for points dist. Set points at .019 or 30deg. dwell.

http://www.4wheelnoffroad.com/qjet.html
http://www.florida4x4.com/tech/quadrajet/index.php

[eagleuh1]

Thanks John, hope to have it running today. One other thing, I changed the tranny filter yesterday and the filter was loose, like it could move about a quarter of an inch up and down on the bolt. Is that normal. It was still attached at the pickup tube. Thanks again. Jim

[eagleuh1]

John, thanks for the links for the carb rebuild. I found one that looked pretty good. Gotta go back for a float and gallon of carb cleaner now. Thanks again. Jim

[C20-67_N_MO]

Good luck firing it up.

and don't forget to post some pictures we all can't live w/o them here.

[capev86]

gap should be .035 like on my 72 burb w/ 307. i just put in new stock ac delco plugs, cap & rotor, wires, etc. and i tossed the lousy points in favor of a petronix ignitor electronic ignition upgrade from LMC. $100 and pulling the distributor is worth not having to ever mess with points again. and E.I. is more precise, especially as rpm goes up.

some may argue that it isn't stock, but i'd go electronic on any engine that had a kit. points are a consumable item anyway. i will be replacing the 307 w/ a 406sbc w/ 750 q-jet and HEI eventually but i want things running right in the meantime.

oh....also did the same thing a few years ago on my 72 honda cb350 twin. it was a custom fit $350 kit from a company that specializes in racing vintage 250 and 350 hondas. it was worth every penny in my opinion.......

[justcuz]

Originally Posted by eagleuh1

Thanks John, hope to have it running today. One other thing, I changed the tranny filter yesterday and the filter was loose, like it could move about a quarter of an inch up and down on the bolt. Is that normal. It was still attached at the pickup tube. Thanks again. Jim

The filter should be tight other wise the pump may suck air and cavitate. Not good for the trans. If the filter was loose I would check the valve body bolts too.

[eagleuh1]

The bolt was tight, it just didn't snug the filter up tight to the valve body, allowing it to move slightly. The pipe coming into the filter seemed nice and snug in the filter and tranny end though. On another note, I have to find some new primary jets for my Q jet, they appeared to be damaged during previous rebuild. Otherwise, having sat for 12 years with gas in it, carb looked pretty clean inside. Off to the parts store. Hi ho we go.

[eagleuh1]

Plan was to replace points with Cfrane XRi electonic conversion unit, similar to pertronics unit. Thanks, Jim.

[capev86]

be interesting to see a comparison of the two products. the petronix went in and works great so far.

[eagleuh1]

When I get the Crane XRi I will do that. The tranny filter is normally loose like mine according to the tranny shop man in town. Got it put together and started. She's loud with just 2 feet of pipe out the manifolds. I think I need some tuning further on the Q-jet, and some rocker arm tweeking,and a timing light and dwell meter attached . Luckily the tiny speed shop in town had my jets, actually had quite an assortment of them. Also had a set of painted Flowtech long tube headers for 67-72 Chevy trucks. And the brackets to keep everything on my truck. Maybe my next purchase is waiting for my return. Is it normal to get sparks out the tailpipe. Not a lot, but still sparks?