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01-13-2003, 09:20 PM | #1 |
STL-KKN
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tomball, Tx
Posts: 182
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Is this cab worth saving?
is this cab worth saving or sould i look into getting another ac cab? this is the only rust in the cab. rockers and cab corners are good.
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1969 C10 350/POWERGLIDE 1991 1500 EXTCAB 350 Formally: collegeK5er |
01-13-2003, 09:21 PM | #2 |
STL-KKN
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tomball, Tx
Posts: 182
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other side
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1969 C10 350/POWERGLIDE 1991 1500 EXTCAB 350 Formally: collegeK5er |
01-13-2003, 09:24 PM | #3 |
registered IWATA user
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Baton Rouge
Posts: 4,481
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from what i've read that is the hardest rust to fix, but hey, everythings fixable. my cab tht i have for frame up has a spot of silicone on it, hope its not that bad under it
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-'63 Ford Fairlane 500 coupe, v8, auto, faded and rusty. awaiting built roller 302 and some flat black -'99 Honda Prelude. vtech/5spd. no pipe, no intake, bone stock. awaiting new top end. -01 GMC Yukon SLT 5.3 dented and scratched with a noisy tranny. Take off that Von Dutch hat before i stab you with a 000 Mack. |
01-13-2003, 09:26 PM | #4 |
Can't kick the addiction!
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Riverton, CT 06065
Posts: 402
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If the rest of the cab is in good shape, keep it. Those holes can be fixed. I've got a cab with those spots still good, I can cut them out if you want them.
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01-13-2003, 09:26 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Mid, NH
Posts: 150
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That cab is almost show-room condition where I live! Should not be too hard to fix!
Good luck!
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Bob Chayer 71 3/4 ton 4X4 Suburban |
01-13-2003, 09:32 PM | #6 |
STL-KKN
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tomball, Tx
Posts: 182
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right now i'm taking a beer break from changing the wiper motor. i have almost no ability when it comes to welding and body work. this also may become a daily driver again because my soon to be wife's car just blew the tranny. so she gets to drive my new car that i just got for graduation, because i've been driving a 33 year old pick up all through school. anyway i don't think i will get to fix this in the next couple of weeks anyway, but this is the first time that i've had the cowl off to look at it.
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1969 C10 350/POWERGLIDE 1991 1500 EXTCAB 350 Formally: collegeK5er |
01-13-2003, 10:11 PM | #7 |
Can't kick the addiction!
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Riverton, CT 06065
Posts: 402
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Any of your friend weld? Maybe you could do a favor for a "body-critter" in return to have the cab welded or you coud trade parts or something in return for the cab repair. Just a suggestion...
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01-13-2003, 10:34 PM | #8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Mo
Posts: 963
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My 67 had rust starting there and I fixed it by taking a section from another cab and welding it in and can't even tell. Although I am body man buy trade, but it isnt as hard to repair as one would think. You can also get right to both sides if your glove box liner and instrument panel is outta the way. I got my pieces off a totally rusted out 71 cab nearly push it off the frame but these pieces were perfect even had bare shiny metal on the back side and no rust. Explain that one!
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New daily driver 96 Chevy K3500 crew cab dually 53,000 miles 350 Vortec 4L80 Nice ride 67 Chevy C-10 LWB Built 350 TH-400 Wifes ride and family rig: 2001 Furd Expedition 5.4 Liter Kickin back in Rolla,Mo. USA "Do the thing you fear most and the death of fear is certain" Mark Twain |
01-13-2003, 10:59 PM | #9 |
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Location: Concord, NC
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If the rest of cab is truly solid and not just patched to look solid then yes it is worth saving. But where that rust is and because its all the way trough (swiss cheese) You can almost be 100% sure there is much more cancer than you realize. For example, pull up the floor mat/carpet and take a good poke with a screwdriver to the lower kick panels where they meet the floor just in front of the doors. Do the same thing to all the cab supports and inner rockers. If its all solid everwhere else, then its for sure worth saving.
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01-13-2003, 11:02 PM | #10 |
STL-KKN
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tomball, Tx
Posts: 182
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yes the kick panels are gone but the rockers are not. i have taken of the floor mat and checked.
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1969 C10 350/POWERGLIDE 1991 1500 EXTCAB 350 Formally: collegeK5er |
01-13-2003, 11:05 PM | #11 |
STL-KKN
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tomball, Tx
Posts: 182
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here is that fix. i will eventuly be putting in kick panel speakers so i don't care about the welds.
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1969 C10 350/POWERGLIDE 1991 1500 EXTCAB 350 Formally: collegeK5er |
01-13-2003, 11:09 PM | #12 |
Seņor Member
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Location: Edge of the world
Posts: 5,367
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That's where mine had rust (and at the through hole for the wiper motor)... and it got worse from there. Make sure you do some serious prodding and poking down in the kick panel vent area. My vent openings were so completely shot that there was no place to actually hang the vent door, and holding it up to the hole didn't even come close to blocking it off.
That cab now sports 2 1/2 cans of spray foam while I get the new cab ready to swap onto the truck. Good luck, Kenneth
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01-15-2003, 03:03 AM | #13 |
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: minden la
Posts: 114
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the wire welders they sell at wal mart for bout 100 bucks works well on thin bodywork
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01-15-2003, 09:05 AM | #14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 292
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fix it
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01-15-2003, 02:42 PM | #15 |
Progress = 0%
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 2,108
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If that's all the major rust there is, I'd fix it. Even if the repair wasn't pretty, it'd be covered with that cowl piece anyway.
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Jason - '67 GMC swb | '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop | '56 210 4dr Wagon | 2000 GMC Sierra |
01-15-2003, 02:59 PM | #16 |
STL-KKN
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tomball, Tx
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thanks for all ya'll input. i feel much better now that i know it's possable. the good thing is that YES it will be cover up by the cowl. so it's good practice. i think i will try that por-15 thing out when i do this also.
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1969 C10 350/POWERGLIDE 1991 1500 EXTCAB 350 Formally: collegeK5er |
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