primer and bodywork? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ocbaud · 01-15-2003, 08:05 PM

okay, i'm needing some body work done to my truck including getting this thing fixed. i'm wanting to have my truck completely stripped on the outside down to bare metal and primered. the primer would need to last for awhile(a year or so) and also have some things shaved(mirrors, drip rails, rear cargo lamp) and a rear rollpan welded in and smooted.

LOHRTBT · 01-15-2003, 08:06 PM

We can call you G Jr. heheheeh

bigblock73 · 01-15-2003, 08:08 PM

where is the question? "primer and bodywork?" is the topic...

ocbaud · 01-15-2003, 08:17 PM

HOW MUCH SHOULD IT COST

sorry, forgot to add that in

79Shortbox · 01-15-2003, 09:07 PM

Oooh, how'd that happen?
Uh, if you do it yourself, cost of sandpaper, rattlecan primer, masking tape, and newpaper.
I did it, about $50. Bodywork will be more depending on what you need(bondo).

PHOENIX · 01-15-2003, 10:17 PM

How did you get "that thing" a.k.a. "tha skraip!"

BigRed · 01-15-2003, 10:54 PM

I suggest you check with the guys in the Paint and Body section. They can tell you exactly what you need and give you a good primer to use. Some are better than others. I sprayed my tailgate about 2 months ago and it's not lasting well.

ocbaud · 01-15-2003, 10:59 PM

i posted in that forum first, no reply yet

my friend primered his 56' at votech with auto primer or some sort and it has lots of surface rust after a year, and my other friend primered his 72' with rattle cans, and it hasnt rusted at all after half a year or a little more.

i put that beauty mark in the truck by hitting a large concrete barrier at tinker AFB

i had to park, and the thing was right behind the only parking spot, so when i go to backout and leave, my fender barely clips the little metal hook thing sticking out of the block.

the funny thing is, i did it when i was picking up my girlfriend for our 2nd date back last may:p

it was kinda embarrassing

bigblock73 · 01-16-2003, 12:07 AM

Eric, know you have your mind set on shaving and priming your truck...but I honestly wouldn't do it yet...wait till you have the money and do it all at once rather than twice or more.

Your truck looks bad ass the way it looks and sits!!

-Jeff

ocbaud · 01-16-2003, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigblock73
Eric, know you have your mind set on shaving and priming your truck...but I honestly wouldn't do it yet...wait till you have the money and do it all at once rather than twice or more.

Your truck looks bad ass the way it looks and sits!!

-Jeff

i just dont wanna have to pay to have the stuff repainted after i get the body work done, since i'm gonna be redoing it later on anyway

the only things i REALLY want shaved are the cargo lamp, mirrors, and rain gutters

arveetek · 01-16-2003, 12:16 AM

Are wanting to have the work done by a body shop? If so, costs vary greatly from shop to shop.

When I had my truck painted, I removed most of the trim, bumpers, door panels, accessories, etc. off myself, saving some labor. The shop fixed all dents and rust. The total bill was $2600. That included two-tone clear-coat paint.

Paint is expensive. I would think the primer would not be.

I'd just take it to some shops and get some quotes.

If you're wanting to do it yourself, it won't cost much at all. Just time. But it also takes some skill. I tried it, and found out I don't have the skills or the patience to do body work.

bigblock73 · 01-16-2003, 12:17 AM

keep in mind primer absorbs water...if you rattle can primer over bare metal it will rust. To do it the correct way you should prime it AND seal it. Not only that, if you do rattle can it you will have to remove all of it before you PAINT the truck the final color...spray bomb paint does not make a good base coat.

79BIG10 · 01-16-2003, 02:08 AM

POR-15 it.

SCOTI · 01-16-2003, 09:34 AM

Primers will absorb water/moisture over time & that is not good for sheetmetal. My advice is to strip only what absolutely needs to be stripped to allow mods & such. The rest should be left alone until you can do it all @ once. Start buying little things now like tape, paper, reducers, tack cloths to help defray costs when buying paints/primers. When it comes to paint jobs, you usually get what you pay for.... so spend the extra to do it right & don't have regrets. An engineer I work with just had his sons Fiero repainted the factory solid black. W/O shooting the jambs, but removing the glass, & front/rear bumper caps(to paint separate), he spent about 2700$ & it is a nice job IMO. Another guy had his 66 stang done @ a local shop for only 1100$(runs included) & it's flaking off/rusting bumper to bumper after only 1 year.

brad2 · 01-16-2003, 10:24 AM

Eric painting supplies are EXPENSIVE! There is no way around that. If you take it to metal you will need to spay etching primer. On top of that you will need a urethane primer. The urethane primer will set up hard pretty much like paint. When you get ready to paint it that stuff will need to come off and you'll have to pretty much do it all again. Modern primers are NOT cheap. Lacquer (sp) primers are cheaper but absorb moisture like a sponge. You don't want that on bare metal. I think your truck looks really good like it is. My advice is to wait till you can get it all done or only do the little spots you want done.

BigRed · 01-16-2003, 10:41 AM

My advice is to do as most are saying and keep your truck as is. I would love to have your paint job!

Low87 · 01-16-2003, 04:11 PM

'sup lil G?

LOHRTBT · 01-16-2003, 04:30 PM

LMAO!!!

bigblock73 · 01-16-2003, 05:03 PM

G jr.

jr. G

badder bow

o'chemist

Low87 · 01-16-2003, 05:24 PM

lmao - o'chemist, the Irish G

LOHRTBT · 01-16-2003, 06:21 PM

*Goat refrence* BA-A-A-A-A-A-A-D BOW!!!

Low87 · 01-16-2003, 06:34 PM

Where the hell did you find a goat reference? Quit fantasizing at work Dave!

79BIG10 · 01-16-2003, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Low87
Where the hell did you find a goat reference? Quit fantasizing at work Dave!

Dave work? ROFLMFAO!!!! :p

Low87 · 01-16-2003, 06:56 PM

That's where specifics come into play. I said 'at work', not 'working'!

79BIG10 · 01-16-2003, 07:01 PM

DOH!!! So true.

01-15-2003, 08:05 PM	#1
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	primer and bodywork? okay, i'm needing some body work done to my truck including getting this thing fixed. i'm wanting to have my truck completely stripped on the outside down to bare metal and primered. the primer would need to last for awhile(a year or so) and also have some things shaved(mirrors, drip rails, rear cargo lamp) and a rear rollpan welded in and smooted. Last edited by ocbaud; 01-15-2003 at 08:20 PM.

01-15-2003, 08:06 PM	#2
LOHRTBT BeWarE tHe eViL CrAnkTOe! Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Yukon, OK Posts: 3,605	We can call you G Jr. heheheeh __________________ ~Dave~ You can call me Mike, Mike Oxlong - 1986 Chevy SWB - Stock for now - *1986 Chevy Custom SWB* *Stolen 6/26/05* - 1985 Chevy SWB SOLD - 1999 T/A Some mods www.cardomain.com/id/ramairdave AIM Screenname - Jester84

01-15-2003, 10:17 PM	#6
PHOENIX Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 4,703	How did you get "that thing" a.k.a. "tha skraip!" __________________ * AVOID: LOPER'S PERMORANCE / LOPERSPEED.COM OF PHOENIX, AZ & COTTMAN TRANSMISSION *

01-15-2003, 10:54 PM	#7
BigRed Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: DFW, TX Posts: 1,680	I suggest you check with the guys in the Paint and Body section. They can tell you exactly what you need and give you a good primer to use. Some are better than others. I sprayed my tailgate about 2 months ago and it's not lasting well. __________________ Scott Shelbourne

01-16-2003, 12:16 AM	#11
arveetek Ultimate Diesel Dude Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Southwest Missouri Posts: 328	Are wanting to have the work done by a body shop? If so, costs vary greatly from shop to shop. When I had my truck painted, I removed most of the trim, bumpers, door panels, accessories, etc. off myself, saving some labor. The shop fixed all dents and rust. The total bill was $2600. That included two-tone clear-coat paint. Paint is expensive. I would think the primer would not be. I'd just take it to some shops and get some quotes. If you're wanting to do it yourself, it won't cost much at all. Just time. But it also takes some skill. I tried it, and found out I don't have the skills or the patience to do body work. __________________ Project truck: '81 C/20 converted to 6.2L TURBO DIESEL bored .040", gear drive, 6.5L injectors/pump, custom pistons, custom 4" exhaust, 700R4, 4.10's Daily Driver: '95 K1500 Tahoe, 6.5L TURBO DIESEL, NP241, 4L80E, 3.42's

01-15-2003, 08:08 PM	#3
bigblock73 yeller Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Twin Cities Posts: 13,824	where is the question? "primer and bodywork?" is the topic...

01-15-2003, 08:17 PM	#4
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	HOW MUCH SHOULD IT COST sorry, forgot to add that in

01-15-2003, 09:07 PM	#5
79Shortbox Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Pasadena, CA Posts: 28	Oooh, how'd that happen? Uh, if you do it yourself, cost of sandpaper, rattlecan primer, masking tape, and newpaper. I did it, about $50. Bodywork will be more depending on what you need(bondo).

01-15-2003, 10:59 PM	#8
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	i posted in that forum first, no reply yet my friend primered his 56' at votech with auto primer or some sort and it has lots of surface rust after a year, and my other friend primered his 72' with rattle cans, and it hasnt rusted at all after half a year or a little more. i put that beauty mark in the truck by hitting a large concrete barrier at tinker AFB i had to park, and the thing was right behind the only parking spot, so when i go to backout and leave, my fender barely clips the little metal hook thing sticking out of the block. the funny thing is, i did it when i was picking up my girlfriend for our 2nd date back last may:p it was kinda embarrassing

01-16-2003, 12:07 AM	#9
bigblock73 yeller Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Twin Cities Posts: 13,824	Eric, know you have your mind set on shaving and priming your truck...but I honestly wouldn't do it yet...wait till you have the money and do it all at once rather than twice or more. Your truck looks bad ass the way it looks and sits!! -Jeff

01-16-2003, 12:17 AM	#12
bigblock73 yeller Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Twin Cities Posts: 13,824	keep in mind primer absorbs water...if you rattle can primer over bare metal it will rust. To do it the correct way you should prime it AND seal it. Not only that, if you do rattle can it you will have to remove all of it before you PAINT the truck the final color...spray bomb paint does not make a good base coat.

01-16-2003, 02:08 AM	#13
79BIG10 I'm back with 2nd truck! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Texas Posts: 3,774	POR-15 it. __________________ 1979 Chevrolet Bonanza Big10 "Tootsie Roll" 1985 Chevrolet Silverado (wife's) Member of the Southern Bowties Club "Don't underestimate how sexy a fat man who drinks to excess can be." Homer Simpson

01-16-2003, 09:34 AM	#14
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,071	Primers will absorb water/moisture over time & that is not good for sheetmetal. My advice is to strip only what absolutely needs to be stripped to allow mods & such. The rest should be left alone until you can do it all @ once. Start buying little things now like tape, paper, reducers, tack cloths to help defray costs when buying paints/primers. When it comes to paint jobs, you usually get what you pay for.... so spend the extra to do it right & don't have regrets. An engineer I work with just had his sons Fiero repainted the factory solid black. W/O shooting the jambs, but removing the glass, & front/rear bumper caps(to paint separate), he spent about 2700$ & it is a nice job IMO. Another guy had his 66 stang done @ a local shop for only 1100$(runs included) & it's flaking off/rusting bumper to bumper after only 1 year. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

01-16-2003, 10:24 AM	#15
brad2 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: edmond, ok Posts: 1,056	Eric painting supplies are EXPENSIVE! There is no way around that. If you take it to metal you will need to spay etching primer. On top of that you will need a urethane primer. The urethane primer will set up hard pretty much like paint. When you get ready to paint it that stuff will need to come off and you'll have to pretty much do it all again. Modern primers are NOT cheap. Lacquer (sp) primers are cheaper but absorb moisture like a sponge. You don't want that on bare metal. I think your truck looks really good like it is. My advice is to wait till you can get it all done or only do the little spots you want done.

01-16-2003, 10:41 AM	#16
BigRed Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: DFW, TX Posts: 1,680	My advice is to do as most are saying and keep your truck as is. I would love to have your paint job! __________________ Scott Shelbourne



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01-16-2003, 04:11 PM	#17
Low87 been here longer than Liz Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Broken Arrow, OK Posts: 2,437	'sup lil G? __________________ ~Greg~ Mac's Garage '87 SWB 6/8 drop "Piso" '08 CCSB Silverado DD the departed '89 GMC K5 Jimmy 4x4 "Rusty Nuts" '77 Chevy K5 Blazer 2wd '83 Chevy stepside "You get what you pay for" - Mike 'swervin ervin' Ervin

01-16-2003, 04:30 PM	#18
LOHRTBT BeWarE tHe eViL CrAnkTOe! Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Yukon, OK Posts: 3,605	LMAO!!! __________________ ~Dave~ You can call me Mike, Mike Oxlong - 1986 Chevy SWB - Stock for now - *1986 Chevy Custom SWB* *Stolen 6/26/05* - 1985 Chevy SWB SOLD - 1999 T/A Some mods www.cardomain.com/id/ramairdave AIM Screenname - Jester84

01-16-2003, 05:03 PM	#19
bigblock73 yeller Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Twin Cities Posts: 13,824	G jr. jr. G badder bow o'chemist

01-16-2003, 05:24 PM	#20
Low87 been here longer than Liz Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Broken Arrow, OK Posts: 2,437	lmao - o'chemist, the Irish G __________________ ~Greg~ Mac's Garage '87 SWB 6/8 drop "Piso" '08 CCSB Silverado DD the departed '89 GMC K5 Jimmy 4x4 "Rusty Nuts" '77 Chevy K5 Blazer 2wd '83 Chevy stepside "You get what you pay for" - Mike 'swervin ervin' Ervin

01-16-2003, 06:21 PM	#21
LOHRTBT BeWarE tHe eViL CrAnkTOe! Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Yukon, OK Posts: 3,605	Goat refrence BA-A-A-A-A-A-A-D BOW!!! __________________ ~Dave~ You can call me Mike, Mike Oxlong - 1986 Chevy SWB - Stock for now - *1986 Chevy Custom SWB* *Stolen 6/26/05* - 1985 Chevy SWB SOLD - 1999 T/A Some mods www.cardomain.com/id/ramairdave AIM Screenname - Jester84

01-16-2003, 06:34 PM	#22
Low87 been here longer than Liz Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Broken Arrow, OK Posts: 2,437	Where the hell did you find a goat reference? Quit fantasizing at work Dave! __________________ ~Greg~ Mac's Garage '87 SWB 6/8 drop "Piso" '08 CCSB Silverado DD the departed '89 GMC K5 Jimmy 4x4 "Rusty Nuts" '77 Chevy K5 Blazer 2wd '83 Chevy stepside "You get what you pay for" - Mike 'swervin ervin' Ervin

01-16-2003, 06:56 PM	#24
Low87 been here longer than Liz Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Broken Arrow, OK Posts: 2,437	That's where specifics come into play. I said 'at work', not 'working'! __________________ ~Greg~ Mac's Garage '87 SWB 6/8 drop "Piso" '08 CCSB Silverado DD the departed '89 GMC K5 Jimmy 4x4 "Rusty Nuts" '77 Chevy K5 Blazer 2wd '83 Chevy stepside "You get what you pay for" - Mike 'swervin ervin' Ervin

01-16-2003, 07:01 PM	#25
79BIG10 I'm back with 2nd truck! Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Texas Posts: 3,774	DOH!!! So true. __________________ 1979 Chevrolet Bonanza Big10 "Tootsie Roll" 1985 Chevrolet Silverado (wife's) Member of the Southern Bowties Club "Don't underestimate how sexy a fat man who drinks to excess can be." Homer Simpson

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