![]() |
![]() |
#1 |
What?
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 7,617
|
Brake bleeding
Hey all, I am getting my high tech four drum power drum brakes back in order, and I just got through bleeding out what I thought was all the air pockets.
With the truck not running I pumped and bled out each wheel, in the process the manual says too. Things were coming along great, got good pedal and thought this was too easy. Until I fired up the engine, and then pressed down on the brake pedal. Just as I expected, the pedal went straight to the floor. It did not come back up, and only has about an inch worth of travel. It's dark out now, and my lighting isn't all that great. So I will pick this up tomorow. Just wondering should I do this while there is vacuum to the booster? Or do I just start the process all over again then repeat, then run the engine to see if the pedal normalizes in it's travel and resistance? Fogive the basic question, it's just been years since I did this. Plus I am all by myself, in the past I had a buddy pump the brakes while I cracked the wheel cylinder bleed valve. Right now I am using a jar and rubber hose to catch all the dirty fluids. Gracias amigo's
__________________
Chris 1968 K20 Suburban 1972 K10 LWB PU |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Between Trucks...
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA.
Posts: 3,830
|
Re: Brake bleeding
You don't need vacuum to the booster when you bleed em, try bleeding them again.
I use a one man brake bleeder I got at Kragen for about $7. It's a little plastic bottle with a magnet and a tube coming out the top. Stick the bottle to the truck above the bleeder and pump the brakes til you have fluid in the bottle. Works great.
__________________
Beat it to fit, Paint it to match... ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Take Off
Posts: 1,908
|
Re: Brake bleeding
Make sure that the rod coming from the booster to the master is just barely bottoming out in the master cylinder piston. Sometimes there is a gap and that will cause your pedal to go to the floor because that rod has to travel a little bit before it actually touches the master cylinder piston and begins to push on it. I had to fab a spacer out of aluminum dowel to take up the slack and give me a normal pedal height.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
I am a Referee of life.
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Greensboro N.C.
Posts: 13,993
|
Re: Brake bleeding
I agree with mclairmo.The rod for the power brakes is longer.If you didn't change yours,you may not have enough adjustment to get the length you need.There's no sense in bleeding them if your rod is too short.
__________________
The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil" |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
|
Re: Brake bleeding
you do want about 1/4 inch 'freeplay' on power brakes on the pedal.
However, I doubt the pushrod's length chainged while he was doing a brake job. Try adjusting the shoes up, sounds a lot like the problem here. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
|
Re: Brake bleeding
if you're getting dirty fluid out i'd continue to bleed regardless of pedal till you get nice clean stuff coming out
__________________
71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|