gear vondor electronics

[mtdave2]

My gear vendor unit started acting strange, wouldn’t shift in to odd ..Then it would, then off, then no lights, then both lights. .all kinds of strange stuff. I wired a direct switch to the unit, and it worked fine, so I figured it was a bad control box

Called gear vendor and talked to one of the arrogant techs, they all seam to be very condescending, anyway… he did mention that he thought the control box was not getting constant voltage. He asked me if I had wired the power to the box so it does not get voltage while the starter is engaged. There is nothing in the install instructions that say to do this, so I had to change it. Still had the same problem.


Called back again, and they wanted me to check my alternator, I did, 13.4 volts, constant. But it did have a lot of barring noise. They did send me a new box, but while I was waiting for it, I took my alternator back to the rebuild shop. The barring were going, and there was a problem with some electrical part that would cause charging issues.

They rebuilt the alternator and I installed it. Kiss my arsch, the gear vendor worked perfectly again. I still changed boxes when it came, everything is fine now. However, is it just me, or is the gear vendor control box a bit to touchy?

[69GMCLonghorn]

You would think it would be more tolerant to voltage changes. But hey, think of it this way, your alternator was about to go south on you. Now you're good to go!

[mtdave2]

ya i am happy about that. now at least i have a way to know if my alt is going out..lol. one hell of a warning light.

[Sinister]

Glad it worked out for you. Did you ever get that vibration figured out?

[mtdave2]

its at the shop getting a new converter.. pretty sure that was the vibration

[gator2511]

I had to change my control box also. They are fussy about not putting the box on line with low voltage present. I have a toggle switch on mine to turn it off and on at the proper time. I found the techs to be nice, you must have gotten one that was fighting with his wife!! If my control box ever goes out again I think I'll just hook it up direct to the floor switch and forget about the box. I never use it on automatic anyway.

[slomotion]

Do you guys find the unit worth the initial price? I've been tempted several times to spring for one, but it comes a little dear.
Is it smooth shifting? Noisy? Install pretty straight forward?

Thanks

[mtdave2]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=363262

there is a post on the install.

i love my gv, the shift is firm, and makes no noise. you can change how the thing shifts buy using differant fluids, or so they say.

buy one, they are great.

[c10addict]

We are an authorized Gear Vendor dealer only due to the fact we sell what we believe in.... The voltage issue is true and common with alot of electronic components these days... If you are considering a Gear Vendor, Go for it.... You will not be disappointed... I am going to put one behind the Muncie in my 68 soon....

[haysonj]

I had a problem with mine shutting off when driving on the freeway after I installed the fuel injection. Would have to pull over shut off the engine and restart. I called GV and they sent me a different style box free of charge. Haven't had a problem since. I shift mine off a button in the B&M shifter. This is the second one I've had (put one in my 60 stepside) and I think they are a good unit.

[slomotion]

Can all the electronics and apparent "nuisance" problems be eliminated by simply installing an on/off switch on your shift lever. I'm thinking that's essentially what Gater2511 is contemplating. Having it shift automatically isn't critical to me. It sounds like the shift points are pre-set by RPM rather than load conditions, and if that's the case, you could have totally different requirements at the same RPM.
C10addict, are the units less expensive without the "brains" or are they part of the packaging? What is the OD ratio? Is this changeable, or by application?

Thanx

[c10addict]

Originally Posted by slomotion

Can all the electronics and apparent "nuisance" problems be eliminated by simply installing an on/off switch on your shift lever. I'm thinking that's essentially what Gater2511 is contemplating. Having it shift automatically isn't critical to me. It sounds like the shift points are pre-set by RPM rather than load conditions, and if that's the case, you could have totally different requirements at the same RPM.
C10addict, are the units less expensive without the "brains" or are they part of the packaging? What is the OD ratio? Is this changeable, or by application?

Thanx

You can control when it shifts in over or underdrive with a switch mounted on the shifter... It comes as a package but Im sure you could seperate.. The ratio is 1:1.286 about 28%... Here is a link to the GM 3 speed auto page.. http://www.gearvendors.com/hrgm3s.html

[slomotion]

Thank you for the link!
I had a Muncie rock-crushing 4 sp w/the granny gear in the truck initially, and changed it out to a WC T5 which made a huge difference in driveability. The final drive ratios are close, but the biggest advantage I see in the GV unit is it's as bullet-proof as the Muncie. The biggest dis-advantage is the T5, clutch, and everything was 1/3 the cost of a GV.

I guess it boils down to application. To do the GV unit for gas savings would take forever to recoup the investment. Not even a consideration. For a tow vehicle and high torque apps it seems the best way to accomplish a strong drive-line.

Goes back to the old saying; "Speed costs money boy, how fast do you want to go?"

Thanks again

[c10addict]

I can tell you they hold up.... We had one in the Camaro that won Drag week and NEVER had a problem with it... Averaged 7.64et at the end of the week for the win...

[Lemield]

Originally Posted by mtdave2

My gear vendor unit started acting strange, wouldn’t shift in to odd ..Then it would, then off, then no lights, then both lights. .all kinds of strange stuff. I wired a direct switch to the unit, and it worked fine, so I figured it was a bad control box

Called gear vendor and talked to one of the arrogant techs, they all seam to be very condescending, anyway… he did mention that he thought the control box was not getting constant voltage. He asked me if I had wired the power to the box so it does not get voltage while the starter is engaged. There is nothing in the install instructions that say to do this, so I had to change it. Still had the same problem.


Called back again, and they wanted me to check my alternator, I did, 13.4 volts, constant. But it did have a lot of barring noise. They did send me a new box, but while I was waiting for it, I took my alternator back to the rebuild shop. The barring were going, and there was a problem with some electrical part that would cause charging issues.

They rebuilt the alternator and I installed it. Kiss my arsch, the gear vendor worked perfectly again. I still changed boxes when it came, everything is fine now. However, is it just me, or is the gear vendor control box a bit to touchy?

MtDave2,

The only odd behavior I have noticed is that if you have the unit in AUTO mode and it has shifted into OD....then you slow down but do not come to a complete stop, the unit will downshift normally but it will shift back into OD really early once you speed back up. I called GV and they told me that the behavior is normal under those circumstances. I usually drive it in manual mode anyway....more fun.

[mtdave2]

ya that is what it is suposed to do. i had a switch installed and though about keeping it and taking the gv electronics out.

the problem you do want it to shut off when you come to a stop. and you for sure dont want to back up with it on, at least thats what gv said. so, knowing me, i would forget to turn it off.

all in all the gv unit is the way to go imho. if you dont do it for gas savings, its worth it just to keep you motor from reving so much on the high way, saving on ware.