Radiators: Brass/copper or aluminum/plastic?

[JJorgensen52]

I've been going back and forth about which to use when I replace my stock radiator (one too many rows broken).

Which is better? Pros/cons? I know modern vehicles use aluminum/plastic because it's cheaper to make and the aluminum cores are more impact resistant.

Thoughts?

[big_al_71]

Griffin aluminum radiator. With a fully built 406, a/c and in the miami heat my truck does not go past 160 degrees ever....

[ap2002]

im also interested.... since i dont want to spend big bucks on a aluminum...

[bbadfred]

I got a brand new 4 core BB radiator from ORileys for 140 dollars. You just need the BB radiator mounts and rubbers about $60 new from LMC. My project is a somewhat budget project.

[ap2002]

Originally Posted by bbadfred

I got a brand new 4 core BB radiator from ORileys for 140 dollars. You just need the BB radiator mounts and rubbers about $60 new from LMC. My project is a somewhat budget project.

do you happen to have a part# from Orileys?

[bbadfred]

Sorry box is gone. I cannot fine the reciept

[bbadfred]

It was listed as 67-72 big block 4 core. Has trans cooler and heater hose fitting.

[panhandler62]

With no other factors other than the metals considered: copper is a much better conducter than aluminum.

There are way more factors to consider in selecting a radiator than just the metals it is made of though.

[Jacfourteen]

I have an all aluminum 2 core radiator that I bought from entropy on Egay. It is a USA hand built quality unit and cost me $260 shipped. The cores are 1" thick each so it is thicker than a stock 4 core brass/copper (cores are 3/8" each). Here is a link to one of his auctions http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/67-72...Q5fAccessories This auction is for a radiator/fan combo, but I'm sure if you sent him a message he would sell the radiator separate. Many others on here have bought this rad and they all seem to like it. I haven't driven mine too much since install of the rad but, I did drive it in 105 degree temps with the fan about 10" away and no shroud on my 300 HP 355 small block(not exactly optimal conditions, I'm in process of upgrading to E fan)and it stayed cool.

[vegaschevy]

Originally Posted by ap2002

im also interested.... since i dont want to spend big bucks on a aluminum...

My aluminum radiator cost me less then $230 shipped for it and fit like a glove and works PERFECT!!

[Sub-versive]

Ah hell, not this again.


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...minum+radiator

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by Sub-versive

Ah hell, not this again.


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...minum+radiator

I'm still getting used to the search feature on this site ... thanks. Not 100% sure that's useful, though

[BADPURPLE70CHEVY]

Im with big al on this one. I just bought a aluminum radiator from 1800-radiators for a great price to drop in for my 406 i am building. My brother bought the same radiator and it made a huge difference in cooling his 71 c-10.

[67ChevyRedneck]

Originally Posted by bbadfred

I got a brand new 4 core BB radiator from ORileys for 140 dollars. You just need the BB radiator mounts and rubbers about $60 new from LMC. My project is a somewhat budget project.

Wow, that's a heck of a deal. I paid a little over $200 with tax for the exact same thing from Advance. I also bought a used set of 4 row rubbers and mounts from a board member for about $20. One of the best things I've done for my truck. My only complaint is that in the winter it takes her a long time to get warm. I think I'm running a 190 thermostat. With an automatic and the A/C cranked on high it never got above 195 in traffic, even when it was over 100 degrees out.

[Sammy]

I personally think the aluminum radiator is more efficent than copper. Most rad shops will tell you that. Which could be just to get your money.

[clinebarger]

I voted copper. not because one metals better than the other, its because i can fix a leaking copper radiator at home, and because the plastic tanks on modern radiators tend to crack after a 100k, alot of aftermarket aluminum radiators are glued together

[rsavage]

I restored my 70 4X4 to stock so replaced the original radiator with a new 4 core copper/brass so it would look correct. If I was going for the resto rod look, I'd have no problem utilizing an aluminum, but I do think they don't look right in a stock vehicle. Have good copper/brass radiators in the 66 and the burb.

[hayhauler71]

All aluminum radiator with aluminum tanks. See to many plastic tanks crack or gaskets on the tanks leak. Just my 2 cents

[JJorgensen52]

Keep the replies coming.

I am looking at about $210 either way aluminum or copper/brass (stock replacement), so no real motivation monetarily.

Also, for those who recommend the BB radiator: My truck came with "HD Cooling" on the SPID sheet, which my research indicates it already has the BB radiator. Can anyone confirm that? **CONFIRMED** Truck measures a touch over ~ 2 3/8" core thickness (not exact, but as close as possible assembled)

[Jacfourteen]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

Keep the replies coming.

I am looking at about $210 either way aluminum or copper/brass (stock replacement), so no real motivation monetarily.

Is this for aluminum/plastic? If you lean toward aluminum I would say pay a little more and get all aluminum. otherwise get the copper/brass.

[63chevyll]

try 1-800-RADIATOR

They have plastic/Aluminum factory replacments. they work real nice

[ETsC10]

Here's my take on it...
First off JJ, aluminum radiators are dirt cheap so if you plan on getting one and it's coming in anywhere near the price of a copper radiator, keep looking.
BTW-copper is going up again so if you plan to buy, do it now.

I voted brass/copper but that is because I've got a fresh engine with cast iron heads and so I think
it is a better choice for the longevity of my engine. Besides, I already had my radiator.
I had mine custom built about a decade ago and had the core direction changed.
It has always been kept clean and has had the coolant swapped every couple of years.

Last summer during our rare 100+ summer heat my engine temps remained stable (fairly low)
regardless of driving/idling patterns.
However, I think if I had been running an aluminum radiator, it probably
would have performed well too because my block is
very clean inside and the peripheral systems have been set up right.

Regardless of what you choose, success is in the details:
A block with clean cooling passages, correct fit of your fan in the shroud, correct timing,
an appropriate fan, fresh correctly mixed coolant, the right thermostat ...

So...there's my 2 non-cents worth...

.

[special-K]

Evidently all radiators work fine in proper condition and application.I`ve only replaced my radiators with what was there and so far that`s still only been brass/copper and always HD.It seems the aluminum radiators do a great job.All I`d care is I`d only want all aluminum and I`d go for quality,as I always do with the old-type radiators.
I couldn`t vote.

[Beuford]

I put a copper/brass 4 row desert cooler from ( Complete Radiators.Com $213.00) in my `70 400 cu in 5 spd and I tow a 24ft camper with it no over heating in summer even with the A/C on.