12-21-2009, 01:34 PM | #1 |
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Sorry, had to ask
I know this doesnt belong here. Please forgive me. I am new to this forum and new to most any major mechanic issue. Here is my question, maybe you can answer or steer me in the right directions:
My wifes 2000 Chevy Suburban has toruble starting. when you get in and turn the key it cranks, cranks, cranks, cranks and cranks. Eventually it fires up evertime. It will crank for 3 to 5 seconds before starting. Sometimes after it fires up the RPM's dip real low and eventually smoothes back out to normal. Can someone help me here? It does have 220,000 miles on it but I cant trade it for a new one with a payment. I love not having a payment! Thanks and again I apologize for bringing up the 2000 model question in a classic forum. Last edited by spavinaw; 12-21-2009 at 01:35 PM. Reason: added a line |
12-21-2009, 01:48 PM | #2 |
425hp409
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Prosper Texas
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Re: Sorry, had to ask
Most likely the throttle body is dirty and needs to be cleaned out. Spray the opening with intake cleaner and take a toothbrush and scrub all contaminants from the throttle body bore and it will probably be fixed.
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12-21-2009, 02:08 PM | #3 |
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Re: Sorry, had to ask
Welcome from Jonesboro.
You might also change the fuel filter and check the fuel pressure during startup. |
12-21-2009, 02:21 PM | #4 |
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Re: Sorry, had to ask
I am absolutely not a mechanic, but my first thought was low fuel pressure.
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12-21-2009, 02:26 PM | #5 |
PooP
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Location: payson, ut
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Re: Sorry, had to ask
those year of suburbans have big problems with fuel pumps. i would check fuel pressure and if it is low change the filter. if it is still low after that replace the pump
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12-21-2009, 02:35 PM | #6 |
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Re: Sorry, had to ask
i'd change air filter spark plugs and add seafoam to the gas tank first
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12-21-2009, 02:37 PM | #7 |
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Re: Sorry, had to ask
If you're inclined to do some work yourself as noted above, you'll at least rule out the simple stuff. If it persists and you have to take it to someone, at least they won't charge you $100 to change the spark plugs, etc...
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12-21-2009, 02:39 PM | #8 |
425hp409
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Prosper Texas
Posts: 841
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Re: Sorry, had to ask
The suggestions for a fuel filter and a fuel pump may be correct, but the easiest and cheapest thing to do first is to clean the throttle body. You could do this in your garage with no special tools. Fuel pumps generally are a pass/fail. I own a shop and we have hardly ever replaced fuel pump unless the truck was a no start situation with no fuel pump operation. If cleaning the throttle body did not help I would replace the fuel filter (needs replacing every 30k anyway). If you still had a problem take it to a mechanic and have him perform a fuel pressure test to check the pump.
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Charles 68 SWB, Dad bought new, now 396 & factory ac 64 Impala SS, 409 425HP, 4 speed AC 64 Bel Air Wagon, 400 Small Block 57 Bel Air all original 283 w/Factory Air 77 GMC Sprint, 454/425HP 67 Olds 442, all original 90 ZR1 Corvette |
12-21-2009, 03:05 PM | #9 |
1972 K20
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Location: Greenfield MN
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Re: Sorry, had to ask
All of the answers given could be the problem...but if it was me, I would replace the fuel pressure regulator. The symptom of a bad regulator is hard starting. I have replaced 3 so far in 3 different chevy trucks and that has always fixed the hard start problem. It is simple to do and the part is not expensive. Good luck
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12-21-2009, 03:09 PM | #10 |
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Re: Sorry, had to ask
WOW, so many good replies in such a short time. You guys are great.
Isnt there two filters on this rig? I replaced the one mounted to the frame under the drivers seat a while back. It didnt seem to help then but I will try it again if the other suggestions dont fix me up. Thanks again for all the input. |
12-21-2009, 03:19 PM | #11 |
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Re: Sorry, had to ask
I would bet regulator as well. When you first turn the key, it runs the pump for a couple of seconds, then shuts off until the vehicle starts (if I remember right). You should be able to hear the pump run for those few seconds. Try cycling the key a few times, see if that makes it better.
If you have access to one, throw a fuel pressure gauge on it. There is a fitting on the fuel rail (looks like a schraeder valve) that you plug in to. I think it should show in the 45 psi range, but would show you if it is bleeding pressure off, etc. You got the only serviceable fuel filter, the other is in the tank. |
12-21-2009, 07:45 PM | #12 |
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Re: Sorry, had to ask
My 96 Tahoe had the Vortex 350 in it. I agree with the regulator if its the same type of engine. Gotta take the whole top plenum and related parts off to get to it. Kinda a pain in the butt.
Symptoms wife had with it was hard starting, occasional back fire when the fuel leaked and ignited. It's same as a leaking carb which causes a flooding condtion. Last edited by 68gmsee; 12-21-2009 at 07:46 PM. |
12-23-2009, 12:33 AM | #13 |
Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires
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Re: Sorry, had to ask
Is it throwing ANY codes at all (check engine light)???
It could also be a dirty/bad mass air flow sensor or plugged/dirty air filter. The computer will compensate for poor air flow by dumping more fuel into the engine. I honestly don't know if that would affect it at start up though. The MAF is easy to clean, loosen the screw that connects it to the air box, unplug it, and buy the "electronic cleaning spray" from the parts store and follow the intructions. It's just a couple bare wire looking things you have to spray. It should be easy to tell if the air filter is dirty, if you "peel" it back and dirt comes out or it looks dirty, it's time to replace it. Just tossing out another possibility, it's also something that should be done every year or two anyway, especially if you live in a dusty/sandy area.
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