Front drum bearing help needed

[evilways]

I got a little up and down movement in my front hub on one side, so I am going to do new bearings, my question is how does the inner bearing come out? It doesn’t look like it had a seal and the bearing is wobbling around inside, isn't the bearing cup supposed to hold it tight?

Second question, my truck is a 67 with front drums, does anyone know what part numbers I need, NAPA is saying bearings for an IFS 25 axle? I don’t want to do the back and forth to the parts store if I can help it.

Thanks for any info on this.

[JimKshortstep4x4]

The bearing cup should be a press fit in the drum. You may want to replace the drum as a new cup will fit loosely in it.

I don't understand what NAPA is coming up with.

Jim

[eseaton]

If it is 2 wheel drive the inner number for timken is set5 if its 4 wheel drive the timken is a set37

[evilways]

So is the outer set2?

[cdowns]

Originally Posted by JimKshortstep4x4

The bearing cup should be a press fit in the drum. You may want to replace the drum as a new cup will fit loosely in it.

I don't understand what NAPA is coming up with.

Jim

a replacement drum has no hub

[Sinister]

Originally Posted by cdowns

a replacement drum has no hub

On my C-20 the hub and drum are separate, and the inner bearing is held in by a seal in the hub. I assume it's similar on a C-10.

[evilways]

Originally Posted by Sinister

On my C-20 the hub and drum are separate, and the inner bearing is held in by a seal in the hub. I assume it's similar on a C-10.

That’s what I am use to on other vehicles, but I didn’t clean up the inner enough to tell if it was a seal or if it use to be a seal anyway. Autojunk calls for a seal so I guess it has one.

One other question, how do you remove and install the bearing cups, are they a press in thing, I assume this will have to be done in a shop?

[Sinister]

The bearing cups have to be pressed out of the hub, and new ones pressed in. Not sure if this could be done at home.

[Dark Knight]

If ya'll are talking about bearing races (cups?) then they can be removed with a brass punch and a hammer. I have done it many times with great success. Installation is the same way as removal, just backwards. Just keep alternating between sides with the punch when installing and removing.

[fjthompsoniii]

you can beat the races in and out with a punch, sometimes a scrap 2x4 works good for getting them back in, make sure they go in square!!! there should be a grease seal on the inner again make sure it goes in square or you will be going back to the parts store. just out of curiosity did you check to make sure it's not 1 or both ball joints?

[Smallz72project]

Like many others have stated yes you can do this on your own in the comfort of your own shop. Tools you will need - Hammer, Punch (for removal), Brass drift or socket the same diameter as the bearing race that will slide inside the hub with out force (for installation). If you look at the picture to the left, this view is as if you were looking down through the middle of the hub. You will either see or feel two or four divets in the hub that make way for you to place the punch on the bottom edge of the race. If you flip the hub/drum assembly over and look through the other side you will see the other notches for that race. Just place the punch on the race and hit it with the hammer back and forth, you will see the race moving. Once you reach the end it may be neccisary to prop up the drum/hub to give enough clearance for the race to fully be removed. Apon installation simply place the new race in the hub with the dished portion facing up toward you. Take your drift or socket and start tapping in the race until you feel it stop. You will be able to tell when you have reached the bottom lip.

The second pic to the right simply shows in which order everthing goes in. I left out the spindle nut and washer and the dust cap that would normally be pictured at the bottom of that illustration. Hope this helps and good luck. Keep on Truckin!!

[mrein3]

I don't own a brass drift or punch but I have installed many races with a brass bolt. They are cheap and available at most hardware stores. I think their god given intention is to be used to hold the top of your toilet tank to the base. They are soft and bend if you get too agressive with your hammer but in a pinch it will work.

[cdowns]

installing bearing races is made a bit easier by letting them sit in the freezer overnight

[hayhauler71]

Buy a bearing race install tool or rent one. I am sure you will use it more than once and the cost is under $50.00.

[evilways]

Originally Posted by fjthompsoniii

you can beat the races in and out with a punch, sometimes a scrap 2x4 works good for getting them back in, make sure they go in square!!! there should be a grease seal on the inner again make sure it goes in square or you will be going back to the parts store. just out of curiosity did you check to make sure it's not 1 or both ball joints?

I did check all the ball joints and arms, they are good, and so is the steering box, I was concerned that it may have came loose since I had to shim the power steer box since my early frame lacked the dent, but that is all tight too.

[DPowers]

On my '66 I bought new bearings and races (inner/outer) and inner seals from NAPA and they turned the drums and installed the new races and inner seals for a labor cost of $5.00 per drum.

I would also check the ball joints.

[evilways]

Originally Posted by hayhauler71

Buy a bearing race install tool or rent one. I am sure you will use it more than once and the cost is under $50.00.

I will defiantly look into that, I am sure it would pay for itself over and over vs. the typical hour minimum shop charge. Also I am not the best at being careful with the delicate tapping of things; I’m more the BFH swinging type.

[evilways]

Originally Posted by DPowers

On my '66 I bought new bearings and races (inner/outer) and inner seals from NAPA and they turned the drums and installed the new races and inner seals for a labor cost of $5.00 per drum.

I would also check the ball joints.

You’re saying NAPA did the install of the races and seals? Heck I didn't know they did work on parts.

[crushermechanic]

if you have a welder you can weld a bead on the inside of the old race. turn the welder up and go at it. let it cool and turn it over. the race will fall out.

[DPowers]

Originally Posted by evilways

You’re saying NAPA did the install of the races and seals? Heck I didn't know they did work on parts.

I don't know if they all do- but the one here in East TN does. Heck I couldn't beat the price either.

[Legolas894]

My '67 had Timken bearings on the front (inner=LM48548 and outer=LM11949) if that helps. I had to pull out the seals but don't remember having to do anything with the races. I used a seal removal tool and a 2X4 to put them back in. I was able to get OEM GM drums from a dealer (old stock). Wheel cylinders and shoes all replaced and weren't too hard to find.
Make sure you get the spring removal tool and the install tool (two separate tools). i just had the remover and using a screwdriver to put the springs back on caused a lot of hurt fingers!!

[evilways]

UPDATE. and not good.

First off thank you all for the help, I started the process today, and I have to say it was not that bad, other than this and this is kind of major issue. I knocked out the old sleeves, greased the bearings tapped in the seal and........ The DAMN spindle has a wear spot on the underside that I did not see in my tear down, and since the PO apparently did not use the proper grade grease it wore a minute wear spot that also caused it to swell a bit, just enough for the new bearing not to slide over. So with the new seats in I had to resort to cleaning and re packing the old inner bearing for use as for now. Good news is it doesn’t have movement anymore. I don’t drive very far to work in my truck (about 5 min. each way), but it is every day, so I hope it holds out for now, until the weather warms up so I can finish the other truck. So once again Thank You All….

[mike16]

chinese bearings usually slip rite in with a little or no finger pressure, but they fall back out too. Just something to think about