3/4 chassis or 1/2 better for lowering??

[Se7en Deuce]

Just found this suspension area.
I have a 3/4 ton 2wd lwb and my goal is to lower it with a static drop
Im thinking 5" front and 6" rear drop.

so heres my current dilema
I dont know if it would be easier to just find a used front and rear end and then buy the components for lowering and then install everything

or
pick up a good rolling 1/2 ton chassis with disc front 5lug all around and then I could work on that sepperately and when ready move body over.

so far the cost would be the same here localy for either way.
if theres alot of things that need to be done labor wise to drop a 3/4 ton chassis I would rather go the easier route. hope this makes sense

any help would be appreciated. hope I gave enough info.

[chevy_mike]

A big thing is, do you want to keep the 8 lug setup or go with a 5 or 6 lug setup? Do you want to keep the 3/4 ton load rating too? Do you have leaf or coil rear suspension?

IIRC 1/2 and 3/4 frames are basically the same. In some ways you are in a better spot with the front. If you use '91-'98 Light Duty 3/4 ton ball joints and spindles, you can swap disc brakes over using your stock 3/4 ton a-arms. In doing this, you can have either 5 lug or 6 lug by swapping the rotors for those year. Put in lowered 1/2 ton springs and if you want dropped spindles, use the same above year dropped spindles.

As for the rear, if a coil setup, you can just get a 1/2 ton rear end from a 67-72, in whichever lug pattern you want. 6 lug, '67-mid '70, 5 lug late '70 to '72. Bolt it in, put some dropped coil springs and you're done.

Hope this gives you a few ideas.

[Se7en Deuce]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

A big thing is, do you want to keep the 8 lug setup or go with a 5 or 6 lug setup? Do you want to keep the 3/4 ton load rating too? Do you have leaf or coil rear suspension?

IIRC 1/2 and 3/4 frames are basically the same. In some ways you are in a better spot with the front. If you use '91-'98 Light Duty 3/4 ton ball joints and spindles, you can swap disc brakes over using your stock 3/4 ton a-arms. In doing this, you can have either 5 lug or 6 lug by swapping the rotors for those year. Put in lowered 1/2 ton springs and if you want dropped spindles, use the same above year dropped spindles.

As for the rear, if a coil setup, you can just get a 1/2 ton rear end from a 67-72, in whichever lug pattern you want. 6 lug, '67-mid '70, 5 lug late '70 to '72. Bolt it in, put some dropped coil springs and you're done.

Hope this gives you a few ideas.

I dont want to keep the 8 lug, nor do I care about the load rating
I have a coil rear end.

wouldnt it be cheaper and easier to just get a front end with disc brakes from a 1/2 ton, all I would need then is drop spindles,springs and shocks ..right???

I guess if the frames are the same, the best bet would be find a 1/2 ton front and rear end ,install them then purchase lowering parts from there.
man im confusing myself lol

[chevy_mike]

There are many ways to skin this cat. Buying used parts, what are you going to keep or replace. If you are keeping the doner's rotors, caliper, bearings, ball joints, etc. and just swapping spindles, springs and shocks, then it might be cheaper/easier to get a complete front disc front end and buy your few parts. If you are going to replace all these other parts with new one, as the used ones could be worn out, what parts are you actually using then?

Used parts are so hard to know if they are good until you start taking them apart. What seems like a deal ends up costing more than a complete swap kit. Trust me, I have been down that road before.

Do a bunch of research before jumping into something.

[lolife99]

I would swap the parts to your frame.
Find a 71-72 5-lug rearend,... or 67-70 6-lug and do a 5-lug "conversion" axle swap.

Up front,... the only thing that you need for sure is the lower control arms.
(3/4 ton balljoint hole is bigger than the 1/2 ton arms)
Your upper a-arms are the same, and can be used with 1/2 ton suspension, with just a ball joint change.
In my opinion,... the rest of the front suspension stuff needs to be NEW parts.
Good luck,... and take plenty of pics.

[Se7en Deuce]

Originally Posted by lolife99

I would swap the parts to your frame.
Find a 71-72 5-lug rearend,... or 67-70 6-lug and do a 5-lug "conversion" axle swap.

Up front,... the only thing that you need for sure is the lower control arms.
(3/4 ton balljoint hole is bigger than the 1/2 ton arms)
Your upper a-arms are the same, and can be used with 1/2 ton suspension, with just a ball joint change.
In my opinion,... the rest of the front suspension stuff needs to be NEW parts.
Good luck,... and take plenty of pics.

So please help me understand what ALL should be new on the front.

the rear end I understand, Im buying a 1/2 ton 3.73 posi 6lug drum set up and will have it rebuilt. its also a leaf spring but can be converted to coil set up from what Ive read fairly easily. Do people do the 5 lug conversion for more wheel options??

Im gettin alot of info on the front but since im a newb im getting confused
Do i have to buy a 1/2 ton front end?
and if I do wont it come with the lower A arm I need to change anyway?
If I buy a used front end what should be replaced with a new part so its safe.
Im assuming buying a new front end from the rotors inwards is way too expensive.
can i get a used 6lug disc set up or this there only a 5lug?? ( which would explain why everyone does the 5 lug conversion on the rear)

sorry if im sounding dumb but this is my 1st older vehicle and I want to understand as much as I can before i start throwing $ away.

[chevy_mike]

If all of your current front end parts are in good shape, another option is to buy the Early Classics 3/4 ton to 1/2 ton dropped spindles. This way you keep ALL of your current parts but can go to a 5 or 6 lug disc brake setup, just needing the calipers, rotors, bearing and spindles. You keep all your tie rods, ball joints and a-arms stock.

Oh, you can get disc rotors in 5 or 6 lug but the 6 lug are from aftermarket companies, not a stock GM part like the 5 lug.

Like I said before, many, many ways to skin this cat. Start by reading everything you can on this board regarding disc/suspension swaps/drops.

[lolife99]

^^^ I agree.
As far as new stuff,... unless you just recently rebuilt the front end,... I would buy new parts and enjoy your truck for the next 100,000+ miles.
Do it once!

New parts include:
1) drop spindles
2) drop springs
3) rotors (5 or 6-lug,... your choice)
4) calipers
5) brake pads
6) brake hoses
7) inner and outer tie rod ends
8) ball joints
9) drop shocks
All that's left is a good front end alignment.

If you don't have one,... a sway bar up front is definitely worth the cash. OEM stockers can be upgraded with poly bushings to perform just fine.

Look over the list,... and see if you see anything on it that you want to use from a 100k+ miles (or more) used front suspension.
The newest oem front suspension parts, that will fit your truck, is from a '91 2wd suburban,... and that 19 years old!

Look for 73-87 pick up parts. They are cheaper than using 71-72 5-lug parts.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by lolife99

is from a '91 2wd suburban,... and that 19 years old! Look for 73-87 pick up parts. They are cheaper than using 71-72 5-lug parts.

Great info guys. To elaborate here, 73-87 C-10 "trucks", 73-82 C-10 "Blazer" and 73-91 C-10 "Burb" are all the same front suspension. I think your clear on the rear, but just so you know ALL of the 73-87 era C-10 series are leaf spring, and 5 lug.

[chevy_mike]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I think your clear on the rear, but just so you know ALL of the 73-87 era C-10 series are leaf spring, and 5 lug.

Yep but a little cutting, some new brackets, a little welding a volia.



'73 rear end setup for '68 truck.

[lolife99]

Yes the 73-87 rearends will work,... as long as you provide some sort of adjustable track
bar (panhard bar) that connects to the passenger side trailing arm.
Otherwise a track bar mount will have to be fabbed and added to the axle tube.

ECE, CPP and others sell such a track bar.

[GVizzle]

[GVizzle]

Heres the PICS you requested.

[GVizzle]

A few more.

[crakarjax]

I'm doing the same thing here, converting my 68 3/4t LWB to a '72 front disc/12-bolt from a donor vehicle. IMO, its easier to just refurbish the front crossmember from the donor, which bolts on as an entire front suspension assembly, and when the time comes, swap it into your car. Much easier to work on out of the vehicle, you can clean it up nice, and you can sell your old front crossmember to make up a bit of the difference.

Parts for the 1/2t setup are cheaper than for the 3/4t setup, so it would probably save you some $$ swapping the entire thing if your existing stuff is worn.

[N2TRUX]

GVizzle- Please do not turn this in to a "Wanted to Buy and offer to sell post.

[Se7en Deuce]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Yes the 73-87 rearends will work,... as long as you provide some sort of adjustable track
bar (panhard bar) that connects to the passenger side trailing arm.
Otherwise a track bar mount will have to be fabbed and added to the axle tube.

ECE, CPP and others sell such a track bar.

I picked up a posi rear end, guy said is was from a 79 blazer
I measured it and it appears to be wider than what I currently have by about 3 3/4 inches. will this work??
and if it will do I still need the panhard bar.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by Se7en Deuce

I picked up a posi rear end, guy said is was from a 79 blazer
I measured it and it appears to be wider than what I currently have by about 3 3/4 inches. will this work??
and if it will do I still need the panhard bar.

Need more details.
Is this a 5-lug or 6-lug (4x4) rearend?
Either way you will need to remove the factory leaf spring brackets
(like chevy_mike pictured here in your thread),... and install some coil spring mounts.
(ECE sells these)
The 3-3/4" wider sounds like alot.

The panhard bar is a definite.
It's the only thing that keeps the rearend centered under the truck.
The original 63-72 coil spring rearends have a stud attached to the cast center section of the rearend.
Your new rearend doesn't.
The ECE Super Track Bar allows to to connect it to the passenger side trailing arm via a bracket that ECE sells.

[Se7en Deuce]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Need more details.
Is this a 5-lug or 6-lug (4x4) rearend?
Either way you will need to remove the factory leaf spring brackets
(like chevy_mike pictured here in your thread),... and install some coil spring mounts.
(ECE sells these)
The 3-3/4" wider sounds like alot.

The panhard bar is a definite.
It's the only thing that keeps the rearend centered under the truck.
The original 63-72 coil spring rearends have a stud attached to the cast center section of the rearend.
Your new rearend doesn't.
The ECE Super Track Bar allows to to connect it to the passenger side trailing arm via a bracket that ECE sells.

its a 6lug, he said it was from a 79 blazer so i would assume 4wd but i dont know for sure.

if it will work I will get the panhard, just need to figure this out first.
thanks

[degree01]

tx Firefighter, can I use 3" spring perches instead of the rear axle saddles? they look the same the only difference i see is I would have to drill 2 holes at each end.