01-29-2003, 01:40 AM | #1 |
Got big-block?
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Austin, Texas
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trailering a truck ?
I'm going to be buying a car hauler trailer in the coming months to help move my growing vehicle collection around, and as I've never bought/owned one before, I'd like to get some input on what options I should look for.
Thinking of an 18' or 20' tandem axle car hauler. What about steel vs. wood floor? Electric brakes? Hitch types? Any other tips? Thanks, SC
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01-29-2003, 03:24 AM | #2 |
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In my opnion go with a metal floor, and 1 or 2 axle electric brakes. I have a 16' wood floor one axle brake tandam trailer. I love it but wish that the floor was metal. I dont really have a problem with the brakes, just another axle would be nice for those heavy loads.
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01-29-2003, 03:24 AM | #3 |
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I have a carson one, they are in carson cali.
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1969 Chevy Project SWB Fleet, 20s, 5.3, t56, in the weeds. 1970 Chevy Truck cab on a 1979 Jimmy frame-8.1 liter 496 bbc/sm465/np203-jeds doubler-np205/d60/14bff Welded/42 tsls on recentered H1s 1998 Chevy Crew Cab K3500 SAS'd with hpd60, links and swayaway coilovers. 8.1l vortec DD/towrig "I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me. " |
01-29-2003, 08:09 AM | #4 |
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trailer
You might want to check, but some states require that both axles have brakes. I've gotten in some pinches before and was glad all four wheels back there had brakes.
Bob |
01-29-2003, 09:39 AM | #5 |
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Location: DALLAS,TX
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SC, your welcome to check out my car hauler. It's an 18ft, w/bulldog hitch, dove tail steel floor, 5ft ramps, tandem axle w/electric brake on 1 axle. I paid 1700$ T.T.&L w/brake controller included from Kearney Trailers just outside of Greenville by Redline Raceway off of I-30. I still have the guys business card @ the house if interested.
I've mounted a 4500# superwinch in a toolbox @ the front as well & bought some d-rings for the tie-downs. This one will do for now & eventually I'll step up to an aluminum trailer (not any time soon $$$ lol). I just read this & it sounds like I'm selling . . . . I'm not, I just thought it would give you an idea of what you can get for the $$ in this area (w/o an inside deal).
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01-29-2003, 09:50 AM | #6 |
Got big-block?
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Thanks for the info guys.
SC
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'68 CST SWB factory 396/T400 buddy buckets, a/c, ps, pb '72 Corvette convertible 454/4spd/ac, ps, pb '73 GMC Sierra Grande short wide 454/T400 ps, pb, ac '77 K5 Blazer black on red, 350/T350/NP205 ps, pb, ac all original '78 GMC Sierra Classic short wide 454/T400 ps, pb, ac '72 GMC Sprint SP454. 1 of 38 built. '73 GMC Sprint SP454. 1 of 71 built. '75 GMC Sprint SP454. 1 of 25 built. SOLD! '72 GMC K25 4x4 468/4L80e/NP205 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...23#post4324423 SOLD!'55 Chevy gasser 496/4spd build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...96#post4324396 |
01-29-2003, 09:55 AM | #7 |
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I learned the hard way, my first trailer had no electric brakes, was 16' and was too narrow for most of my stuff to fit on! I sold that one and got a newer one, it's 18' w/elctric brakes, dovetail with ramps that roll out from under the back, and it is 76" between the fender wells. I can winch a car up on the trailer, roll the window up and open the door to get out, instead of crawling out the window. That's a real plus! Mine is a Parker trailer, they are made in Texas.
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01-29-2003, 11:34 AM | #8 |
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What do want to spend????
A 16' wood floor trailer, bumper pull, 5' ramps, with (2) 3500 lbs axles and brakes on one axle (all that's all that is required in TX) will run you around $900 in your part of the world. If you add a steel floor you will increase to $1500 plus easily. Figure $100 to add brakes to the second axle. A 16' is long enough for most street vehicles. Dove tails are nice, but always necessary. Buy a car hauler, not a utility trailer though. The channel iron is 1/2 thicker on a car hauler, not to mention, larger/wide vehicles will not clear the wheel fenders on the trailer. Car haulers usually run 77" wide. Pick up a "Heavy Equipment Trader" and you will find a dozen trailer manufacturers around your area (Midlothian, Ennis, etc). Goose necks are great, but overkill for hauling a truck around occasionally. If you plan to tow all the time, and have heavy loads, then that is the way to go. I bought a goose neck 18' steel floor in Oklahoma a few years ago for $1800. Try "Extreme Trailers" in Ennis. They build them on site and can build what you want. I have dealt with them in the past. Decent trailer and good prices. You are in the best location to shop for trailers. Between TX and OK, I bet you have 100 trailers maunfacturers and re-sellers. Good Luck! Last edited by Charlie Coleman; 01-29-2003 at 11:36 AM. |
01-29-2003, 11:40 AM | #9 |
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I'm in agreement. I have an 18' steel floor with a 4' dovetail and slide out ramps. Get the slide out ramps whatever you do. Carrying those things from the side sucks. Mine is a Magnum, made here in Austin. They are not cheap however. Mine is 7000# GVWR with electric brakes on both axles. I mounted a pickup side box to the front and had a 12" c-channel welded in between the front and next crossmember to facilitate mounting a winch. I have a Superwinch S2500 with direct switch, but if I did it again I would get the S3500 with the remote switch. I also had them add stake pockets to the side, which make great tie down points when hauling something other than a car. My trailer was right at $3000, but worth every penny.
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01-29-2003, 11:40 AM | #10 |
Flake Daddy
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Location: Plainview TEXAS
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I have a metal floor tandem axel with electric brakes....it's a Big Tex brand....when you get the brake control for your hauler..it's like your not even pulling anything......I love it...i'd recommend one to anyone who hauls a car....plus, the fender's are low enough that you have plenty of clearance to get out of the car when you open the doors...and I haul a air bagged pontiac on it.....so it sits low.....
rigo
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01-29-2003, 11:45 AM | #11 |
Flake Daddy
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sorry forgot one more thing, one think to look out for in any trailer is construction.......there are cheaper metal floored trailers out there.....but look at the frame construction......most of them are channel frames......what I liked about the Big Tex brand and what influenced me to buy it....is that the whole frame is square tubing......very strong construction...
rigo
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1968 SWB Fleet Daily Driver 350/TH400 shaved driprail,emblems,tailgate,air ride suspension 1964 Pontiac Catalina 2dr. hardtop shaved everything, air ride suspension 1998 Range Rover 1960 El Camino....in the works..... |
01-29-2003, 03:18 PM | #12 |
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On a truck it is not of much import, but if you also trailer cars, and low ones at that, the length of the dovetail is VERY important. Look for a 4' dovetail rather than the more common two footer.
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01-29-2003, 03:48 PM | #13 |
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Good point MikeC.
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01-29-2003, 06:17 PM | #14 |
Just like to part out trucks!!
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I just bought a 22 foot H+H tilt trailer, electric brakes on both 5200 axles, 2 5/16 ball bull hitch, wood floor, have a new 8000# Warn winch getting mounted on the front of it. I can't wait to start finding some trucks to haul. Sakohntr has one just about like it only shorter. Mine was $1850 tax and all in Dec. Good luck Randy
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01-29-2003, 06:36 PM | #15 |
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Teeitup, sounds like you got a great deal.
Another thing to consider is the length of the ramps when loading lowered rides. I'm currently constructing some 6' ramps for mine instead of the 5' one that came w/it.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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