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04-28-2010, 04:48 PM | #1 |
"Hooked on Quack"
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Midlothian,TX
Posts: 154
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Engine Build Questions....getting nervous
Ok as I have worked on projects over time it seems with each project I run into a job that I have not done before. I believe in reading and learning and doing it yourself, but I am getting kind of nervous. I have a real good solid platform in my 454. Keeps good oil pressure, pulled and end cap bearings look good, oil is real good. So I ordered about $800 worth of parts for it.
Sorry for the long intro. Now to the problem. This will be my first time installing a new cam, timing set and lifters. I understand the timing chain, I understand how to install the cam itself. My confusion is on the lifters. If someone has a good link I would appreciate it. The issue I am most concerned with is I understand setting lash and goin 1/2 turn past zero I got that. Do I have to turn the engine and set zero lash for each cylinder. I thought I could just put the cam in, put in the lifters and tighten everything but I think I just caught a mistake maybe not. ANY experienced help with lifter install would be GREATTTTTTTTT
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Semper Fi, Kevin USMC Last edited by Quackaddict; 04-28-2010 at 04:49 PM. |
04-28-2010, 05:51 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Re: Engine Build Questions....getting nervous
yes the engine needs to b turned over so the lifyers r on th lo spot of the cam to properly adjust the valve lash
me i'm in no rush and do it one cyl at a time so as to not confuz myself
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04-28-2010, 07:13 PM | #3 |
Who's got steelies?
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Morrison, Oklahoma
Posts: 1,025
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Re: Engine Build Questions....getting nervous
I second what cdowns said. Manuals will usually tell you with such and such cylinder at TDC you can adjust such and such valve, but the best way to avoid confusion is to turn the engine over for each cylinder so you can adjust both intake & exhaust at the same time. Of course, the old school way of adjusting it while the engine is running always works too. Back off each rocker slowly until you hear it clack, then slowly tighten it up until the clack goes away, then give it the extra 1/2 turn. Its kinda messy though if you don't have an old valve cover with a hole cut in it.
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1969 C10 LWB W/ 250 I6 & 3spd 1970 C10 with '67 small window cab, 68 front end, blue; 305/TH350, 3.08 limited slip rear end, manual brakes, power steering; & 4-wheel drums-My daily driver. 1975 Chevelle Malibu Classic Coupe 350/th350 mint green 1970 C20 Suburban 350/700R4 4.10 gearing green & white 1978 Big 10 Silverado 350/th350, working ac, 2 tone blue-My summer daily driver 1983 GMC 1500 Sierra 305/SM465 2.73 rear end How to add a trip odometer to your 67-72 stock speedometer How to rebuild your Q-Jet My Truck Page My Youtube Channel |
04-28-2010, 07:21 PM | #4 |
What?
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 7,617
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Re: Engine Build Questions....getting nervous
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Chris 1968 K20 Suburban 1972 K10 LWB PU |
04-28-2010, 07:23 PM | #5 |
"Hooked on Quack"
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Midlothian,TX
Posts: 154
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Re: Engine Build Questions....getting nervous
LOL I just got on here to post a link to that exact video they also did one that answered my questions about cam break-in gonna keep their videos handy. Answered all my questions. I just got my new rockers today, cam came yesterday and timing chain should be here friday so this "may" happen this weekend .
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Semper Fi, Kevin USMC |
04-28-2010, 08:41 PM | #6 |
Active Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,643
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Re: Engine Build Questions....getting nervous
Quack - make sure to use a good break in lube on the cam and reapply it after you set lash
What cam are you going with?
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1968 SWB 454 + .040, 490HP x 540 FT pounds of Torque 10-1 Kb Forged pistons, recon rods w/ ARP wave loc bolts 781 heads Ported with 2.19/1.88 SSTvalves Lunati 60204 cam, Micro Trol lifters, Ported Edelbrock Performer Rpm manifold armor coated, Pertronix Triple Strike Ignition Holley 770 Street Avenger carb,Headers armor coated Built by Watson Ruppel Performance in Sarahsville Ohio. Hardshift Tranny Built Turbo 350,TSI 10" 3000 stall 12 Bolt Eaton Posi 4.10 Richmond Gears moser axles 18.5" x 31" Hoosier Pro Street Radials ET Classic 5 Wheels - polished Power Steering, Power Brakes,Disc Brakes,Tach & Gauge Dash, Tilt,Factory Air (gone) Custom Paint & Body Work Special thanks to my wife, my son and my money tree |
04-29-2010, 05:55 PM | #7 |
"Hooked on Quack"
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Midlothian,TX
Posts: 154
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Re: Engine Build Questions....getting nervous
Lunati
•Advertised Duration (Intake/Exhaust) 272/280 •Duration @.050" (Intake/Exhaust) 224/234 •Gross Valve Lift (Intake/Exhaust) .527"/.553" •Lobe Seperation 112 •Intake Center Line 107 •RPM Range 1500-5500
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Semper Fi, Kevin USMC |
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