CPP Brakes SUCK!!!!!!!!!

[68 c10 ls2]

These are my rear brakes i ordered from CPP. I am not happy!!!! The pads are either to big/ rotors to small/ or the brakets set the caliper out to far! I was hearing a grinding noise when i hit the brakes and CPP said "they just need to brake in". Well i have about 3000 miles on them, the noise hasen't gone a away and this is what i found when i pulled the brakes off tonight. Notice the hard edge on the pad? Noice the pieces of the other pad that fell off? how about the crack in the pad? CPP SUCKS !!!! I WILL NEVER BUY FROM THEM AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[72K20]

I know how frustrated you must be but I would sure give Jeff from CPP a chance to make this right. Most people think Jeff is a great guy and I think he would be willing to help figure this out for you.

Just my $.02 worth!

[N2TRUX]

That is a problem with the pads. I had that happen once on a 96 Chevy truck. I could hear excessive grinding and discovered that the pad was overlapping the rotor just like yours did. Since the pads were new, I didn't want to waste them. I ground the edge of the pad back with a bevel and the problem went away.

Since your are cracked from excessive heat, you will need to replace them. As 72K20 mentioned, I would get in touch with CPP Jeff. He has been going WAY beyond normal to offer great customer service.

[68 c10 ls2]

I sent these same pics to CPP and they said "I can't see what your talking about". I think these pics are pretty good. What do you think? can anyone see what im talking about?

[68 c10 ls2]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

That is a problem with the pads. I had that happen once on a 96 Chevy truck. I could hear excessive grinding and discovered that the pad was overlapping the rotor just like yours did. Since the pads were new, I didn't want to waste them. I ground the edge of the pad back with a bevel and the problem went away.

Since your are cracked from excessive heat, you will need to replace them. As 72K20 mentioned, I would get in touch with CPP Jeff. He has been going WAY beyond normal to offer great customer service.

I know what your saying but i went and checked the front pads and they are just fine with A LOT less wear than the rears. I did have to slam on the brakes once last summer and the rears locked up. So the poprtioning valve may be wrong to from them. (sending to much presser to the rear)

[68 short step]

a better explaination of what the pics show would help alot....i know you are frustrated, but take the time to explain what each pics represents....

[N2TRUX]

Whats happening is the pads are actually sticking to the rotor before the release. That is why they over heated and cracked. I compared my old pads to a new set and could see that they were glued to the backing plate a bit higher. I feel strongly that the issue is with your pads. If you replace them and it's still doing it then I am wrong, I just don't think I am on this one.

I don't know who you talked to at CPP, but I still suggest you talk to Jeff. He is jumping through hoops taking care of our members here. I feel he will get your issue resolved.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 68 short step

a better explaination of what the pics show would help alot....

Take a look at the area I highlited. The pad on the left had a lip on it but it broke off. The pad on the right still has the lip. This is caused from the pads over lapping the edge of the rotor.

[68 c10 ls2]

Originally Posted by 68 short step

a better explaination of what the pics show would help alot....i know you are frustrated, but take the time to explain what each pics represents....

1st pic is the setup on the truck. 2nd pic is the outer pad after i pulled off the caliper and picked the pieces that fell off the outer pad that was over the top of the rotor. 3rd pic is of both the pads sitting side by side and the crack in the inner pad(on the right). 4th pic see the edge at the top of the pad? 5th pic that edge is showin by the silver edge at the top of the pad that is running over the rotor.

[8mpg]

That sucks...

[68 c10 ls2]

i thank everyone for thier help on this!! I REALLY do!! I have contacted CPP before for other problems i have had with their parts and i got nothing but a "good luck" from them. I have figuered out ways to make their stuff work but when it comes to my brakes (the way i and my daughter stay alive) NO WAY!

[68 c10 ls2]

okay im dumb when it comes to this forum, why did this post get moved to the "review board"?

[cdowns]

my eyes arnt the best but to me the picture looks as tho your caliper mounting plate doesnt appear to b square to the axel flange . if that is correct it would cause your outboard pad to b higher on the disc than it should b

[68 c10 ls2]

Originally Posted by cdowns

my eyes arnt the best but to me the picture looks as tho your caliper mounting plate doesnt appear to b square to the axel flange . if that is correct it would cause your outboard pad to b higher on the disc than it should b

Thats just the way the pic looks. Its square. Both of the pads are higher than the rotor the pieces just fell off the one pad.

[killer71]

so what's the plan?

[68 c10 ls2]

Idk. maybe pick up a set of the willwood replacment calipers.

[DKN]

Looking at this picture I see the lip on the edge of the friction surface. Unfortunately some of the brake pad manufactures make their pads with the friction in slightly different positions on the brake pad. The only harm is the lip generated as the pad wears. Since it is a wear item it does not amount to much. If the crack in the friction is on the outer pad I recommend checking the axle for end play. It is common for the axle to have some end play, however if the end play is to much the outer brake pad can act as a limiter for the side to side movement. As the axle is limited against the pad it will be dragging the brake against only 1 brake pad, usually the outer pad since the caliper can float towards the inboard direction. It will make the brake pad get very hot. This may have caused the crack in the friction surface. You should also check to see if the brake is holding pressure after the pedal is released, this could also cause the brakes to operate at higher temperatures. There are many factors that could cause the brakes to hold pressure. I have seen several instances where the original brake system had rust build up in the brake lines. The rust can become loose when bleeding the system for the new brakes. The rust can cause a blockage that holds residual pressure in the brakes. When this happens people are quick to blame the new brakes even though the rust problem is there from the old brakes but did not become evident until the new brakes were installed. Also double check that the bracket is square with the rotor. Drum brakes can be mounted on crooked and uneven flanges without any problems; the shoes simply mount on a spring loaded pin and follow the drum. Disc brakes require a much more precise mount, and many axles are not machined all that well from Chevrolet. If the brackets need adjusting simply shim the mounting bosses until the brackets are straight. You kit should have included a package of shims.

We normally sell this kit with calipers that feature an internal parking brake. The internal parking brake calipers work much better for C-clip axles. They allow the axles to move side to side more without affecting the brake. The caliper pistons can not compress from the normal end play found in C-clip axles. I recommend using the calipers with an internal parking brake.

Like someone else already mentioned, you can easily chamfer the edge of the brake pad where you see the lip, but that will not address the heat build up in the outer pad. Since I did not perform the installation I can not tell exactly what the problem/problems are. Start by checking the end play on the axle, it is usually the cause. The end play will make the bracket flex, build heat, and misalign the friction material with the rotor. You can call me and I will help identify the root of this problem, but I will need more information.

FYI: switching to another caliper will most likley solve nothing, espically a caliper without an internal parking brake.

Sincerely, Danny Nix
CPP

[CPPJEFF]

Originally Posted by DKN

Looking at this picture I see the lip on the edge of the friction surface. Unfortunately some of the brake pad manufactures make their pads with the friction in slightly different positions on the brake pad. The only harm is the lip generated as the pad wears. Since it is a wear item it does not amount to much. If the crack in the friction is on the outer pad I recommend checking the axle for end play. It is common for the axle to have some end play, however if the end play is to much the outer brake pad can act as a limiter for the side to side movement. As the axle is limited against the pad it will be dragging the brake against only 1 brake pad, usually the outer pad since the caliper can float towards the inboard direction. It will make the brake pad get very hot. This may have caused the crack in the friction surface. You should also check to see if the brake is holding pressure after the pedal is released, this could also cause the brakes to operate at higher temperatures. There are many factors that could cause the brakes to hold pressure. I have seen several instances where the original brake system had rust build up in the brake lines. The rust can become loose when bleeding the system for the new brakes. The rust can cause a blockage that holds residual pressure in the brakes. When this happens people are quick to blame the new brakes even though the rust problem is there from the old brakes but did not become evident until the new brakes were installed. Also double check that the bracket is square with the rotor. Drum brakes can be mounted on crooked and uneven flanges without any problems; the shoes simply mount on a spring loaded pin and follow the drum. Disc brakes require a much more precise mount, and many axles are not machined all that well from Chevrolet. If the brackets need adjusting simply shim the mounting bosses until the brackets are straight. You kit should have included a package of shims.

We normally sell this kit with calipers that feature an internal parking brake. The internal parking brake calipers work much better for C-clip axles. They allow the axles to move side to side more without affecting the brake. The caliper pistons can not compress from the normal end play found in C-clip axles. I recommend using the calipers with an internal parking brake.

Like someone else already mentioned, you can easily chamfer the edge of the brake pad where you see the lip, but that will not address the heat build up in the outer pad. Since I did not perform the installation I can not tell exactly what the problem/problems are. Start by checking the end play on the axle, it is usually the cause. The end play will make the bracket flex, build heat, and misalign the friction material with the rotor. You can call me and I will help identify the root of this problem, but I will need more information.

FYI: switching to another caliper will most likley solve nothing, espically a caliper without an internal parking brake.

Sincerely, Danny Nix
CPP

Danny i appreciate you coming on here and giving the members some insight, i appreciate you doing this.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 68 c10 ls2

okay im dumb when it comes to this forum, why did this post get moved to the "review board"?

All posts that are product or vendor feedback related are moved to the Review Board.

[lucifer]

I read this post and had to comment. I ordered a full set of front and rear disc brakes for my 64 as well as a power steering bracket. The PS bracket did not fit, the front brakes required maching to their bracket to properly line up and the rears required extensive work to get the caliper properly aligned with the rotor. The brackets were off by .090 in order to even get the caliper and pads over the rotor and then the caliper was so high on the rotor that
.100 thou of the pad wasn't even contacting the rotor.

My calls to CPP only made it worse because they "never have any issues" and my truck must be somekind of misfit. Aaaron was a complete jerk even after I sent pics of the inproper alignment saying that I assembled it wrong.

Long story was I spent tooooooo much time and money after buying their bolt on crap. These guy shave no clue and even worse customer service.
"ITS ANYONE FAULT BUT CPP's"

DO NOT BUY FROM CPP

sorry but I don't want to see others get screwed. There are several reputable guys out there...you might pay more but the stuff will fit.

Lucifer

[CPPJEFF]

Originally Posted by lucifer

I read this post and had to comment. I ordered a full set of front and rear disc brakes for my 64 as well as a power steering bracket. The PS bracket did not fit, the front brakes required maching to their bracket to properly line up and the rears required extensive work to get the caliper properly aligned with the rotor. The brackets were off by .090 in order to even get the caliper and pads over the rotor and then the caliper was so high on the rotor that
.100 thou of the pad wasn't even contacting the rotor.

My calls to CPP only made it worse because they "never have any issues" and my truck must be somekind of misfit. Aaaron was a complete jerk even after I sent pics of the inproper alignment saying that I assembled it wrong.

Long story was I spent tooooooo much time and money after buying their bolt on crap. These guy shave no clue and even worse customer service.
"ITS ANYONE FAULT BUT CPP's"

DO NOT BUY FROM CPP

sorry but I don't want to see others get screwed. There are several reputable guys out there...you might pay more but the stuff will fit.

Lucifer

Actually i see issues all the time working here, most can be easily addressed and figured out without over exerting myself or the customer. Im sorry for the issues you had i really wish i could have been involved. While you had issues its definitly not the norm as are stuff is some of the nicest stuff manufactured and most guys know that on this board. If there is anything i can help you with dont hesitate to get in contact with me directly, i really hate reading this stuff, but it certainly keeps everyone on there toes and helps everyone do a better job in the future.

[pocoloco71]

i ordered a set of leaf springs and had planned to order many more parts
from CPP. After nearly a year and being sent 3 sets of wrong springs, I finally
got the right set only ater asking for Aaron's supervisor. I had asked him to
get somebody to actually go over to the parts bin and see if someone had
actually put the wrong spring in the right place, but he wouldn't do it.
I agree CPP stuff looks great and I see it on other trucks, but I can't
seem to get any of it without an extreme aggravation. It's good to know
of a contact.

[lucifer]

To CPPJEFF I would love to give you the opportunity to make it right.

How do I contact you...when I asked for someone above Aaron I was told that there wasn't anyone??

Lucifer

[CPPJEFF]

Originally Posted by lucifer

To CPPJEFF I would love to give you the opportunity to make it right.

How do I contact you...when I asked for someone above Aaron I was told that there wasn't anyone??

Lucifer

Just call me direct at 888-522-8303 ext 118. Thanks bro!!

[sighlurr]

I just spent $40 on brand new A/C Delco pads to try and fix this issue myself. Both sets of pads rub on the rotor, and the rotor hat. On both sides, even after it was centered.

I'm not sure if 1980-1985 Seville rear brakes are the way to go anyway. Seems a little dated. Wilwood from here on out.