Bag ideas

[54Caddy]

I am planing on bagging my truck, I have a few questions that i need answered so lets see if you guys can help me out.
1. What size bags do i need up front? have a sbc
2. What size bags do i need in the rear?
3. Will a 5 gallon tank be enough?
4. Should i run 1 or 2 compressors? Don't want to have a long fill time
5. How would i run hard lines instead of the nylon style?
6. Will my 1 piece driveline clear the frame with the bags aired out?

Here are the plans, I will run a 3 inch drop spindle up front with upper plates and lower cups (Might cup the A-Arm not sure yet), Out back i will flip the axle either with a 5 or 6 inch kit with the way it currently stand and use a helper bag that is mounted outside the frame to lift it up for ride height. The rear currently has a 2 inch drop shackle and only 3 leafs, for the notch i will weld in a pipe instead of ordering a bolt in c-notch. The plan is for me to just lay low when i park and not have a hole in the bed because i still use my truck as a truck. I will be running stock 7 inch steelies with 245/60/15 TA's mounted on them. Im thinking it should lay out on top of the rims in currently have if i measured everything correctly. Any questions answered will help and i appreciate it.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by 54Caddy

I am planing on bagging my truck, I have a few questions that i need answered so lets see if you guys can help me out.
1. What size bags do i need up front? have a sbc
I like Re-7 bags from Slam Specialties

2. What size bags do i need in the rear?
Depends on the bracket setup. Most companies run a sleeve bag for a better ride on the rear.

3. Will a 5 gallon tank be enough?
Yes

4. Should i run 1 or 2 compressors? Don't want to have a long fill time
2 will make for faster fill times, unless you are running a huge compressor.
Two 400c's from Viair should be fine. Bigger compressor = faster fill times.
It's whatever you wallet can afford. .

5. How would i run hard lines instead of the nylon style?
They add to the expense. For a first time bag installation, I would stick with dot approved 3/8" line and good quality dot fittings. They will cost more than you think.6. Will my 1 piece driveline clear the frame with the bags aired out?

Here are the plans, I will run a 3 inch drop spindle up front with upper plates and lower cups (Might cup the A-Arm not sure yet), Out back i will flip the axle either with a 5 or 6 inch kit with the way it currently stand and use a helper bag that is mounted outside the frame to lift it up for ride height. The rear currently has a 2 inch drop shackle and only 3 leafs, for the notch i will weld in a pipe instead of ordering a bolt in c-notch. The plan is for me to just lay low when i park and not have a hole in the bed because i still use my truck as a truck. I will be running stock 7 inch steelies with 245/60/15 TA's mounted on them. Im thinking it should lay out on top of the rims in currently have if i measured everything correctly. Any questions answered will help and i appreciate it.

Look at N2TRUX's "old" build of his 77 black swb truck. It's exactly what you are doing. Air over leaf on the back.

[kev2809]

1 compressor doesnt cut it for me. i have a 5 gallon tank and 1 airlift 450 and it takes about 6 minutes to fill it up. good suggestion on the 3/8 line, i have 1/2" and its super fast and i dont really like it lol

and i have dominator 2600 bags front and back...i havent hit the road yet but they sure are a beefy bag. you dont really hear bad things about those are slams so i would go with either if i were you...

[54Caddy]

I am hoping N2Trux replies to my pm about his old set up or if he chimes in here about what i want. Also the hard line is a thing later to do at first it will be the 3/8 line, I wanted to run 1/4 but i havent found any valves in that size but they do have adapters. I want the bags to be slow and quite, thats why i was going to run 1/4. I was going to also try and get twin vair 480s to fill a 5 gallon tank.

[54Caddy]

1. Here is the plates cups and bags for the front
http://www.*****************/-63-87-f...ag-bracket-kit

2. Here is the compressors i want to run
http://www.avsontheweb.com/product.p...cat=429&page=1

In the rear i have a buddy who has a set of helper bags that he is going to bring by today and i am going to see if they fit. Also a tank, the tank will be a 5 gallon but how many holes does it need i see some with up to 9 how do i know which one to get?

[baggedcten]

waylayed sells 1/4 valves for $22 a piece i dont now if there any good tho

http://www.waylayedinc.com/Waylayed2...7D4%22-Valves/

[gixxerpymp]

^^^

SMC or Parkers IMO.

[54Caddy]

I plan on using some valves off of ebay, here is the link.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_609wt_1165

[blime81]

quote from the ebay link "These are made by us Chassis Tech"

you might wanna check out what folks have to say about chassis tech, airbagit or whatever name they are using today. The general thought seems to be to stay far far away.....

[N2TRUX]

Keith gave very good answers. Let me throw my version in her as well...

Originally Posted by 54Caddy

I am planing on bagging my truck, I have a few questions that i need answered so lets see if you guys can help me out.
1. What size bags do i need up front? have a sbc
Most guys run the 2600 series bags, some go with 2700. Brand and size depend on personal needs

2. What size bags do i need in the rear?
For the AoL system you will want the sleeved bags. I ran Firestone on mine.

3. Will a 5 gallon tank be enough?
Yes, but I found it easier to mount two 3 gallon tanks instead.

4. Should i run 1 or 2 compressors? Don't want to have a long fill time
You can get buy with one compressor. These days everyone offers a twin pack for not much more than a single. I suggest two for quicker fill times as well as a back up in case one does fail. I prefer the ViAir 380's.

5. How would i run hard lines instead of the nylon style?
Hard lines are sweet looking but not necessary. If you had your body off I would say do it. If not, I feel it's a lot of extra work with the only true advantage is strength.

6. Will my 1 piece driveline clear the frame with the bags aired out?
It should not be a concern with the amount of drop you plan to run.

Here are the plans, I will run a 3 inch drop spindle up front with upper plates and lower cups
There is no need to cup your A-arm on a 73-87. With the amount of drop your going to run plates and 3" spindles will allow you to go lower that your fender liners will let you. (Might cup the A-Arm not sure yet), Out back i will flip the axle either with a 5 or 6 inch kit with the way it currently stand and use a helper bag that is mounted outside the frame to lift it up for ride height. The rear currently has a 2 inch drop shackle and only 3 leafs, I had to go with the top two leafs and a 2" block on mine. This allowed me to get the rear air pressure where it needed to be for a better ride. for the notch i will weld in a pipe instead of ordering a bolt in c-notch. The plan is for me to just lay low when i park and not have a hole in the bed because i still use my truck as a truck. I will be running stock 7 inch steelies with 245/60/15 TA's mounted on them. Im thinking it should lay out on top of the rims in currently have if i measured everything correctly. Any questions answered will help and i appreciate it.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by blime81

quote from the ebay link "These are made by us Chassis Tech"

you might wanna check out what folks have to say about chassis tech, airbagit or whatever name they are using today. The general thought seems to be to stay far far away.....

Very good advice. I suggest Ride Tech 3/8" valves and line. I had a system with 1/4 valves and it was really slow.

[54Caddy]

If i land up hitting the liners they might just come out. Mine shouldn't hit as quick as yours did you had 20s. The rear my buddies kit has the sleeved bags so i just got to see if they will bolt up to the leafs. As far as the valves The Ride Tech ones are probably why to expensive not trying to spend a fourtine just on valves so i will run these if they give me problems then i can switch them.

[kev2809]

i wouldnt try the ones from airbagit.com, not when suicidedoors has the smc 3/8" for 28.99 each (231.92 for the 8 pack)...thats about as cheap as they get for a good dependable brand.

[54Caddy]

the ones on ebay have a warranty never hurts trying for 90 plus free shipping thats a deal if they dont work simply send them back and order new ones. I see the ones on suicidedoors to but im on a budget so i will try the other and see how they are if they dont work then ill switch, what are the problems you guys are concerned about with them??

[blime81]

I've never ran their valves but I know that any company that needs multiple names to keep doing business is doing something wrong.
!
It's your money and I'm on a budget too. I'd just rather pay for something thats good one time then deal with bs.

The guys at suicide doors come highly recommended from all over and thats because they take care of their customers. I value that and as a result they have earned my repeat business.

[54Caddy]

very true but if know one actually has any of these valves then how do they know if they work okay. Ill take the chance ahahah.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 54Caddy

very true but if know one actually has any of these valves then how do they know if they work okay. Ill take the chance ahahah.

I don't mean to be harsh, but do you want our advice or not? My advice along with several others here that have experience is DO NOT buy those valves, or anything from Chassis Tech, airbagit.com, AIM or anyone that sells their parts. Do a search on here or Google and you will get plenty of hits telling you about the quality.

PLEASE spend your money with a company that has know good customer service. If Ridetech is not in your budget, then talk to Suicide Doors. They are a vendor here, and are known for quality parts at a very reasonable price.

There is nothing more frustrating than a air suspension that fails because it was cobbled together on too small of a budget. If you want to do this, be patient and save till you can afford quality parts.

[54Caddy]

Makes total sense man, ive heard about them in both good and bad. Suicidedoors is one ive been looking at a lot also, I was also going to drive up to fresno and see if avs sold any more then the ones they show and check the local shop here to see what they offer. Do the chassis tech valves stick or what kind of problems encounter? And also ive heard of bags that roll over when they are low and give you a bad ride is this true? And on an air tank how do i know how many holes i need see some all the way up to 9.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by 54Caddy

Makes total sense man, ive heard about them in both good and bad. Suicidedoors is one ive been looking at a lot also, I was also going to drive up to fresno and see if avs sold any more then the ones they show and check the local shop here to see what they offer. Do the chassis tech valves stick or what kind of problems encounter? And also ive heard of bags that roll over when they are low and give you a bad ride is this true? And on an air tank how do i know how many holes i need see some all the way up to 9.

I know this is going to cause some discussion,... but you need to control each bag individually.
So your tank will need:
4 ports for the 4 fill valves.
1 or 2 inlet ports for you compressor(s).
Possibly a pressure switch port.
It all depends on how you plumb it.

Here's a good 8 valve diagram from Suicde Doors' website.

[54Caddy]

I was going off that same diagram and thats 7 ports on there. Was thinking i need 1 with 4 3/8 ports(for valves), 2 1/2 ports (for compressors) and 3 1/4 ports ( one for pressure switch, drain, and gauge). Does any one sell a tank like that.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 54Caddy

I was going off that same diagram and thats 7 ports on there. Was thinking i need 1 with 4 3/8 ports(for valves), 2 1/2 ports (for compressors) and 3 1/4 ports ( one for pressure switch, drain, and gauge). Does any one sell a tank like that.

You can have tanks made to spec or you'll need to uses adapters for the various fitting sizes for cheaper/off the shelf tanks.

[54Caddy]

haha thats true it would look alot cleaner made thought then some adapters on it. Who custom makes these?

[kev2809]

mine is a 5 gallon 8 port tank and its not enough ports...but, the good thing is you can run "t" fittings and run 2 things to one hole. on my bottom port, i ran a t with a schraeder(sp?) valve and on the other side is a coupler so i can plug up an air hose. i only one compressor and that will soon change to a "t" so i can add another compressor. and probably one more to add a drain port on the side port that has my pressure switch in it, lol. i didnt think of all this when i first got my fittings together...so be well planned out if you want everything on the first try.

[54Caddy]

well if i find one with 2 1/2 inch end ports they will be for both compressors, 4 side ports with 3/8 inch holes for the valves, and 3 1/4 inch holes one for gauge and one for pressure switch and the other for drain will be fine for me. So yea i need a 9 port 5 gallon tank. Any one know of one with these exact hole sizes i would like it better without running adapters, the less fittings the least likely for leaks!

[kev2809]

true about the less fittings, but it really isnt that hard. you should see how many adapters im running lol

i used loctite on mine and not one single leak. i have 1/4" 3/8", and 1/2" fittings all on my tank (which are 1/2" ports). i was terrified at first becuase i dreaded a leak but so far so good. that loctite is the shiznit