rubber transmission lines?

[71GMCinTN]

Anyone use rubber lines (high temp/high pressure/etc.) instead of metal for their trans lines? On this truck, they had lines run to the cooler only from the trans. (figured it was a manual trans. radiator before I looked) They had used uncut lines, and stuck the flares into the rubber cooler lines and clamped them.
Still had old trans. lines hooked up to the radiator, that were cut about 1/2 way, so I figured it must be something wrong with the radiator, but I hooked up an air line to one line, and it held pressure fine (no air bubbles in the coolant).
My first thought was to have the right fittings (2 for the trans. 2 for the radiator) and just use rubber hose instead of metal lines so I could run them away from the headers. Have read that it's better to use as little rubber line as possible, and will be a prob. eventually. Plan to reuse the cooler, and will have rubber lines on it.

[bossrod]

I have them on my 72' and thety are working great. Have a local hose shop that put the ends I needed on the hoses, at the desired length, and it was a snap to install them. It's a clean look too.

[71GMCinTN]

Kool bossrod glad to hear it!

[Longhorn Man]

as long as you use the right hose and fittings, then it is perfectly fine. I've had them on my one ton since 05

[storm9c1]

I've used sections of rubber lines on many cars/trucks for years. Just be sure to use transmission line. It can be purchased at any auto parts store by the foot. My 9C1 cars always had sections of rubber lines from the factory with those metal clad crimps -- now those leak after a while. A flare on the metal line and a good high pressure hose clamp works fine to fix that. And the clamp can be snugged if it starts to weep later on. Never had a problem after 15+ years.

[71GMCinTN]

ok... this is what they had to cool the fluid. Reminds me more of an oil cooler, but I don't know the diff.
See trans. hose at Jegs that I think will work, http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60355/10002/-1
but want to make sure I get the right size fittings. Is barbed better or worse than the flaired type? Have plenty of 12V fans that would be easy enough to mount to it. See alot of coolers around 40.00-60.00 I like alot better.

[storm9c1]

Originally Posted by 71GMCinTN

ok... this is what they had to cool the fluid. Reminds me more of an oil cooler, but I don't know the diff.
See trans. hose at Jegs that I think will work, http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60355/10002/-1
but want to make sure I get the right size fittings. Is barbed better or worse than the flaired type? Have plenty of 12V fans that would be easy enough to mount to it. See alot of coolers around 40.00-60.00 I like alot better.

The cooler in the rad tank is designed to serve TWO purposes. 1) cool the fluid on hot days and 2) heat the fluid on cold days. A transmission is most happy when the fluid temp is within a certain range.

If the truck is only to be used in the summer, it would be OK to bypass the rad cooler, but if it were me, I'd run them in series, with the air-to-oil FIRST in the chain, then the rad tank (water-to-oil) cooler next in the chain. This way the fluid will be cooled down and then moderated to a good operating temp in the rad.

As for the link you sent for Jegs -- yes, that hose is correct. But you need to make sure your hard lines are 3/8". You can also get this hose at local auto parts stores, probably cheaper. Barb fittings and clamps will work, but they will need checked for weeping. The more rounded flares don't weep as easily because they don't damage the hose internally when you crank down the clamp.

I see no problem with the cooler you posted. It's a little small, but it would work, especially if used together with the cooler in the rad tank. There are various different designs, they all do the same thing, but I personally like the stacked design with horizontal rows rather than these "S" tubes with fins.

I've been tempted to mount fans to a cooler as well, but the more I learn about transmissions and cooling, the more I realize it would be overkill unless you transmission is really running too hot. And if that's the case, you need to find out why. Plus a fan can actually obstruct air flow at highways speeds if it's running.

[71GMCinTN]

Thanks for the advice again,Tom. This truck will just be used in warm weather on nice weekends. (bought a 2000 Nissan Frontier new,that still has less than 50,000 miles on it, for my daily driver) Deff. will be using the cooler in the radiator, but after I get it rebuilt. A nice 4 core radiator, but paranoid of it leaking and getting coolant into my transmission, before then.
Are the fittings I need for the transmission, and radiator 1/4'' NPT x 3/8'' Hose? ...and, when choosing another cooler down the road, is 18,000 GVW about the target to shoot for? Used to have a B&M cooler I really liked, and really like their SuperCoolers.
Sorry to ask so many questions......

[71GMCinTN]

Plan on using just fittings and hose. No hard lines, at this time.

[trz1000]

Here's my setup. Auxiliary cooler plumbed with -6AN Aeroquip socketless hose/fittings. Summit sells their house brand which is made by Parker (at least the last time I got it that's what it was). The Parker stuff is nice as well.
I came off the tranny with 1/4"NPT male to -6 male adapters. Pressure side to the bottom fitting on the cooler.

System works well and I like the look of the auxiliary cooler and red/blue anodized aluminum fittings. Not for everyone though.

[71GMCinTN]

Does look sweet trz!

[71GMCinTN]

Did pick up some 3/8th" hose locally today, for this old one. Was 1.19 a foot (Goodyear)
Think most of the coolers I have been looking at take -6 fittings.

[Longhorn Man]

keep an eye on the good year hose... I've found it to be good for a year... and that's about it.
Parker hose is top notch though.

[trz1000]

Here's another pic from the front. When I made the brackets I squared everything to the top of the core support not the grille which is why the cooler looks like it's leaning to the driver side.