converting to 5 lug, problems with rear and driveshaft

[WellBilt Kustoms]

I have a 63 Longbed fleetside, has a 350 with a powerglide behind it. I'm in the process of converting the truck over to a 5 lug, all parts are coming off of a 87 suburban. The rear end is a 10-bolt. The old rear in my truck was a Eaton 8 lug.

I have the new 10 bolt set on the trailing arms, but the problem i'm having is the driveshaft. When I put in the yoke into the tranny, its completely pushed all the way in just to get the rear U-joint to bolt up, and thats even hard to do. This is with the suspension hanging down also. So there's no way at ride height it will work. I'm not sure if the previous owner swapped in a 3/4 or 1 ton driveshaft when he swapped in the Eaton 8 lug rear. The driveshaft itself looks fairly large in diameter.

Can someone measure there driveshaft for me? Or does anyone know what the measurements should be for a stock 1/2 ton driveshaft for a longbed truck?

I'm thinking about either cutting an inch and a half out of mine, welding it back up, then going to get it re-balanced. Or...getting another driveshaft off of something else that will be the right length.

[vin63]

It would be best to put the truck at ride height and with all the weight on the tires...then, measure for your driveshaft length. I use a chart similar to this one when measuring for driveshafts in my projects: http://markwilliams.com/driveshaftOrdering.aspx

This way you'll know for sure what the measurement will be for your application - then you can shorten your driveshaft or have a new one made at the precise length for your truck.

[michael bustamante]

If you need another correct 2 piece drive line, let me know. (pm) I pulled one out of a 62 3/4 ton. v8 with a 3 speed and a granny gear so you would still have to swap slip yokes

[WellBilt Kustoms]

Originally Posted by michael bustamante

If you need another correct 2 piece drive line, let me know. (pm) I pulled one out of a 62 3/4 ton. v8 with a 3 speed and a granny gear so you would still have to swap slip yokes

driveshaft I have now is a one piece. My truck doesn't have a carrier bearing

[WellBilt Kustoms]

just got done measuring everything. Can someone post up measurements of there 1/2 ton one piece driveshaft for there longbed pickup? I just want to compare and see how much larger this one is. I'm thinking its out of a different truck thats a 3/4 or 1 ton.

From center of u-Joint to center of U-Joint, length is: 67"
Length of Yoke that goes into tranny: 3.75"
Total length of driveshaft (End of yoke to end of U-Joint) : 73.5"
Diameter of Driveshaft is: 11.25"

[vin63]

Originally Posted by WellBilt Kustoms

just got done measuring everything. Can someone post up measurements of there 1/2 ton one piece driveshaft for there longbed pickup? I just want to compare and see how much larger this one is. I'm thinking its out of a different truck thats a 3/4 or 1 ton.

From center of u-Joint to center of U-Joint, length is: 67"
Length of Yoke that goes into tranny: 3.75"
Total length of driveshaft (End of yoke to end of U-Joint) : 73.5"
Diameter of Driveshaft is: 11.25"

Most of the long bed trucks had a two-piece shaft with a carrier bearing mounted on the trailing arm mount crossmember. I believe you measured the circumference of the shaft, which translates to a 3.5" diameter. Consult with a driveshaft maker if you want to stick with a one-piece steel shaft because a 3.5" dia. shaft that is 67" may present some critical speed issues in your application. If you need a relatively local contact, I've used J. E. Reel before:

J. E. Reel Driveline
448 S. Reservoir
Pomona, CA 91766
(909) 629-9002

[fleetsidelarry]

Originally Posted by WellBilt Kustoms

Diameter of Driveshaft is: 11.25"

!!!, you do mean circumference, right?

1. you mean you swapped rear ends and now the driveshaft is too long? the only thing that would cause this(other than not locating it properly on the trailing arms) is if the new carrier is longer (what I mean is the pinion u-joint is further forward), if so measure the difference between the new and the old, that should be the distance that you need to shorten

2. I didn't think our trucks came with single piece shafts originally but maybe.

[WellBilt Kustoms]

Originally Posted by fleetsidelarry

!!!, you do mean circumference, right?

1. you mean you swapped rear ends and now the driveshaft is too long? the only thing that would cause this(other than not locating it properly on the trailing arms) is if the new carrier is longer, if so measure the difference between the new and the old, that should be the distance that you need to shorten

2. I didn't think our trucks came with single piece shafts originally but maybe.

Correct. I appologize for that. Its a 3.5" diameter driveshaft, not 11.25". (That would be just crazy huge!)

Do you think I should get a carrier bearing and carrier bearing bracket and find a 2-piece driveshaft for it? If I can get away with just cutting mine down and getting it rebalanced, or finding another one piece that will fit, i'd rather do that. alot easier and time effective, but if it is going to create problems such as vibration at higher speeds, i'd rather just go with a 2-piece.

Thanks for the replies guys!

[fleetsidelarry]

I'm still a little confused (not surprising at my age) is this the old driveshaft or the one out of the suburban?

Regardless, either solution is going to work. There's nothing wrong with either (actually 3 choices, as there is a heavy duty 2-piece shaft and carrier setup). If the previous owner torched the carrier bearing bracket out to make room for the 1-piece to move up and down (as was done on the donor truck I have) then it will be a lot more work to install the carrier bearing as this bracket is riveted to the crossmember.

Lots of us out here running shortened driveshafts, good idea to get it done by a specialist but if you know your stuff go for it.

[WellBilt Kustoms]

Originally Posted by fleetsidelarry

I'm still a little confused (not surprising at my age) is this the old driveshaft or the one out of the suburban?

Regardless, either solution is going to work. There's nothing wrong with either (actually 3 choices, as there is a heavy duty 2-piece shaft and carrier setup). If the previous owner torched the carrier bearing bracket out to make room for the 1-piece to move up and down (as was done on the donor truck I have) then it will be a lot more work to install the carrier bearing as this bracket is riveted to the crossmember.

This is the driveshaft that was in the truck before we started swapping rear ends. BUT....I don't believe that this is the original driveshaft that came from the factory. The truck had a swapped rear end into it when I got it. (Eaton HO52, 8-lug rear end) Probably out of a 3/4 or 1 ton truck of some sort. I'm thinking they had swapped the driveline out of the that truck along with the rear end to swap both into this truck at the time they did.

[Captainfab]

If this was my truck, I would be going with the heavy duty 2 piece driveshaft. Probably still need to have the front shaft shortened, but a 2 piece is much better in a long wheelbase truck IMO.